Discover St. John's, Newfoundland
Graham Worrall
Whitbourne, Nfld.Can J Rural Med vol 3 (1):35-37
© 1998 Graham Worrall
St. John's is described in the tourist brochures as the "City of Legends." I think it would be more apt to describe it as the "City of Tall Tales" or the "City of Blarney." You can judge for yourself while talking with the locals during your visit.
So, what else but conversation can beguile you in and around St John's when you're here for the Society of Rural Physicians of Canada's annual Rural/Remote Medicine conference? If you are judicious, you will have both outdoor and indoor plans, because the weather can be terrible or magnificent here in early May.
Although it is relatively small, St. John's, by virtue of its long history as a seaport, has a colourful history that is unmatched by most other Canadian cities. Although there is no evidence that John Cabot ever visited here (the city name, however, is based on the story that he may have entered its harbour on June 24, the feast day of St. John the Baptist), it is certain that the port became well known soon after the discovery of the New Founde Lande. When, in 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert sailed through the Narrows and claimed the island for Queen Elizabeth I, there were already 3 dozen fishing vessels gathered in the harbour. It is not recorded what these sundry French, Portuguese and Basques felt about this abrupt founding of the British Empire.
Nonetheless, part of the Empire we became, and we stayed that way until Confederation with Canada in 1949. The history of St. John's is much more that of an international trading port than a Canadian city. Despite devastating fires that destroyed much of the city in 1817, 1846 and 1892, St. John's retains much of the charm of the Old World. The downtown is close to the conference hotel, and its narrow winding streets are similar to those running down to the river in London or to the sea in Lisbon. Much of its architecture bears traces of Victorian England and of the small rural Irish towns whence came many of its inhabitants in the 18th and 19th centuries. The local dialect will make many visitors do a double take, wondering whether they have strayed to Waterford or Cork. It is well to remember that St. John's is closer to Europe and the Eastern United States than it is to many parts of Canada, and that until Confederation, people here naturally looked to the British Isles or New England when sending their children for an education or when seeking employment.
If you are staying in the conference hotel, you will be steps from the most interesting streets. Water Street is claimed by some to be the oldest street in North America; at one time it ran directly along the harbour, so that goods could be transported directly from store to boat, but infill has put it a block away now. Its place has been taken by Harbour Drive, a fascinating walk at any time of the year to view the harbour and its ships. I would suggest your walks around St. John's go back and forth along Harbour Drive, Water Street, New Gower Street, Bond Street and Military Road. All of these streets run eastwest and are connected by a multitude of side roads and alleys, which are worth exploring. It is here that you will find the smaller and more interesting stores, which sell handicrafts and local knick-knacks. Maps of the downtown area can be obtained at the hotel or at city hall (which also contains the tourist office). Organized walking tours are available, but it is far more fun to explore the downtown yourself. Most of the better restaurants are also found downtown; look out for those that display the "Taste of Newfoundland" symbol; here you will be able to sample some of the traditional foods of the province, as well as other dishes featuring local ingredients.
Just outside the conference hotel is St. John's City Hall, an ugly modern building, but worth visiting just to say you have stood at "Mile 0" of the Trans-Canada highway. It is here that Terry Fox, Steve Fonyo and a host of intrepid imitators started their cross-Canada treks.
You'll have much more fun if you walk a block south, toward the harbour, until you come to George Street. This small back street, once little more than a collection of seedy garages and industrial buildings, is now the centre of St. John's night life; it has the highest concentration of pubs in North America. It, and the surrounding streets, boast a number of pubs where you can hear live music, which may range from blues (try the Fat Cat) to Irish-Newfoundland folk (try Erin's Pub, the Blarney Stone and the Ship Inn). The programs and the performers change often, so it is best to ask around when you arrive, but there is never a problem finding a good show. It has been said that St. John's has more singers and instrumentalists, for its size, than any other city in Canada.
Fig. 1. Signal Hill with Cabot Tower in the background.If you want to stretch your legs without leaving the city, try a hike up Signal Hill (Fig. 1). This is a national historic site, and contains several exhibits, including the Cabot Tower, built in 1897, to celebrate the golden jubilee of Queen Victoria and the 400th anniversary of the discovery of Newfoundland. It was here in 1901 that Marconi flew a kite to receive the first transatlantic radio signal. From Signal Hill you gain superb views both to sea — where there is a good chance of seeing icebergs and whales — and to land — where you can peer down to the Narrows and to the city and harbour of St. John's. In addition, there are a number of exciting trails around the hill and along the cliffs.
If you have children with you or prefer a less strenuous climb, try Bowering Park (where the kids can feed the ducks and admire the statue of Peter Pan) and Bannerman Park. Try a hike around Quidi Vidi Lake, where you might see crews in training for the Regatta, or hike around the Battery, a former small fishing village, which is now within the city and an easy walk from downtown. There are about 40 km of walking trails within the city, and the best of them is the Rennie's River Trail, which can be accessed at several points near downtown. Plan on taking the kids to Pippy Park, where there is a Fluvarium; here you can learn all sorts of things about freshwater plants and animals; you can even go underground and view a stream from below.
A refreshing aspect of St. John's is the almost complete absence of high-rise development (unfortunately, the city fathers permitted a couple of office towers to go up in the 1980s), which means that almost all views of the city are dominated by 2 fine churches, both named (of course) for St. John the Baptist, and both worth a visit. The Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, a fine example of the ecclesiastical Gothic Revival style, was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. He was the fellow who was responsible for St. Pancras Station in London, which was started in 1843 and is supposedly still not complete. The Roman Catholic Basilica is larger and more gaudy than its Protestant counterpart and was the largest church in North America when it was built. Although construction started in 1841 and was completed in 1850, it usually wears a garland of scaffolding for ongoing repairs.
It you fancy a short trip outside the city, you'll have to rent a car. In St. John's there are a few bus routes, but public transport is rudimentary at best. If you have just a day or two, I would suggest you drive around the Avalon Peninsula. Whether you head north or south out of St. John's, you will soon find beautiful scenery and spectacular views. If you have a particular interest in marine life or bird-watching, several companies offer boat tours. However, May is early in the season for them and you'll have to call when you're in the city (Gatherall's and Captain Murphy's offer reasonable tours). You may have the opportunity to get a close-up view of icebergs rather than marine life!
Whatever your interests, plan to spend a few extra days in St John's before or after the meeting!
If you don't want to stay in a large conference hotel, try one of the many bed-and-breakfasts in the town. All of the following are within walking distance of the conference: Compton House, Waterford Bridge Rd. (709 739-5789); Waterford Manor, Waterford Bridge Rd, (709 754-4139); Winterholme Heritage Inn (709 739-7979); Fort William Bed & Breakfast, Gower St. (709 739-0990); A Bonne Esperance House, Gower St. (709 726-3835). If you would like to stay in a fishing village, try the Orca Inn in Petty Harbour (709 747-9676)Fig. 1. Signal Hill with Cabot Tower in the background.
