Knitty: Vortex - Winter 2008

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models: Lee Meredith

photos: Pete Bejarano and Lee Meredith

by Lee Meredith

Long ago in my knitting life I came across Tychus here on Knitty, my first discovery of short rows. It took me a while to grasp the concept well enough to be able to incorporate it into my own designs, but once I started playing I just couldn't stop. One design idea led to another, getting crazier with swirls and waves, and then I thought of how I could make the swirls pop more by switching between two self-striping yarns in contrasting colorways.

After some more playing, finally Vortex was born - the pointed version - and I loved it! Got tons of compliments too, with its swirl design twisting up and up to that high peak. But I knew it wouldn't be for everyone, so I made some modifications to create the slightly more conservative no-point version. A great thing about using two balls of yarn for the stripes is that you only need half of each, so you could make yourself matching pointed and no-point hats!

Of course the possibilities are endless for color/striping options with this hat - it would look great with two solids, or one striping yarn paired with a solid yarn. Or, for a more subtle swirl design, use just one self-striping yarn alone and get a whole different look!

I can tell from the stares I get from knitters that this design looks much harder than it is. Don't be scared by the seeming complexity; it's a very simple hat once you get the hang of it. Constructed of wedges, the brim and swirls are formed by increases and decreases, garter stitch and stockinette, with simple short-rows for shaping, no wrapping of stitches needed. Stitch markers and the pattern's noting of how many stitches in the brim within each row keeps track of your place, so it's an easy pattern to follow while watching or listening to something. And it's so much fun to see the stripes form into swirls and become a hat!

Although it's called the no-point version, the second hat does have a little bit of a peak. You can get rid of it almost completely with blocking, or you can choose to pull it up into a mini-point if you wish.

SIZE

Child [Adult] (shown in adult size)
To fit head sizes ranging from 15-18[20-24] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference: approx. 17[21] inches
Note: These hats are very stretchy and can be blocked to fit most head sizes.

MATERIALS

Noro Kureyon [100% wool; 109yd/100m per 50g skein]; 1 skein each color
Pointed version:
[MC] #185
[CC] #164
No-Point version:
[MC] #172
[CC] #95

In-progress Child size sample shown in Pattern Notes section knit in Lily Sugar 'n Cream Stripes [100% cotton; 95yd/86m per 56g skein]; colors: #21712 Lime Stripes and #21010 Natural Stripes; 1 skein each color

Recommended needle size:
1 set US #9/5.5mm straight needles

1 crochet hook (used for provisional cast on)
Waste yarn
2 stitch markers
Yarn needle

GAUGE

16 sts/26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

It is not necessary to wrap sts at turning points of short rows. The increase worked at end of each RS short row and slipped st at beginning of each WS short row prevent gaps from forming.

vortexTECH1

vortexTECH2

vortexTECH3

vortexTECH4

Provisional Cast-On: This pattern uses a particular crocheted provisional cast on method, which differs from the method usually listed in Knitty patterns. With this method, stitches are crocheted directly onto the needle. It is important to use this method, to avoid inconsistency in the striping pattern and shaping at the point where the hat is grafted together. Directions and a video can be found here and a tutorial can be found here.

Grafting: Instructions for grafting can be found here.

sk2p: Slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2 sts decreased.
k3tog: Knit three together. 2 sts decreased.

DIRECTIONS

Note: At the end of each line of directions, the number of sts in the brim (garter st section between marker and edge of work) will be indicated in brackets.
All WS rows are worked using the same color as the preceding RS row.
Carry yarn not in use loosely along edge of work. Be sure to work first st of each RS row loosely, so that lower edge of hat will stretch.

POINTED VERSION
Using waste yarn and provisional method indicated in Pattern Notes, CO 44[54] sts.

First Wedge:
Row 1 [RS]: Using MC, k4, place marker, k to last 8 sts. Turn work. [4 brim sts]

Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p6, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [4 brim sts]

Row 3 [RS]: Using CC, kfb, k to first marker, sk2p, k to next marker, remove marker, m1. Turn work. [5 brim sts]

Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [5 brim sts]

Row 5 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 3. [6 brim sts]

Row 6 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [6 brim sts]

Row 7 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 3. [7 brim sts]

Row 8 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [7 brim sts]

Row 9 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 3. [8 brim sts]

Row 10 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [8 brim sts]

Row 11 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 3. [9 brim sts]

Adult Size Only:
Row 12 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [9 brim sts]
Row 13 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 3. [10 brim sts]
Row 14 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [10 brim sts]
Row 15 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 3. [11 brim sts]

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p to marker, k to end. [(9)11 brim sts]
Next Row [RS]: Using MC, kfb, k to marker, k3tog, k to last 4 sts, kfb. Turn work. Wedge is complete. [10(12) brim sts]

Second Wedge:
Row 1 [WS]: Using MC, sl 1, p4, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [8(10) brim sts]

Row 2 [RS]: Using CC, kfb, k to marker, k3tog, k to next marker, remove marker, m1. Turn work. [9(11) brim sts]

Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p6, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [7(9) brim sts]

Row 4 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [8(10) brim sts]

Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [6(8) brim sts]

Row 6 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 2. [7(9) brim sts]

Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [5(7) brim sts]

Row 8 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [6(8) brim sts]

Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [4(6) brim sts]

Row 10 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 2. [5(7) brim sts]

Row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [3(5) brim sts]

Row 12 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [4(6) brim sts]

Adult Size Only:
Row 13 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [4 brim sts]
Row 14 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 2. [5 brim sts]
Row 15 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [3 brim sts]
Row 16 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [4 brim sts]

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p to marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [2 brim sts]
Last Row of Wedge [RS]: Using CC, kfb, k to marker, k3tog, k to last st, kfb. Wedge is complete. [3 brim sts]

Third and Fifth Wedges:
Row 1 [WS]: Using CC, sl 1, p7, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [3 brim sts]
Row 2 [RS]: Using MC, kfb, k to marker, sk2p, k to marker, remove marker, m1. Turn work. [4 brim sts]
Rows 3 through 12[16]: Work as for Rows 2 through 11[15] of First Wedge.

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p to marker, k to end. [(9)11 brim sts]
Next Row [RS]: Using MC, kfb, k to marker, k3tog, k to last 3 sts, m1. Turn work. Wedge is complete. [10(12) brim sts]

Fourth and Sixth Wedges:
Work as for Second Wedge.

NO-POINT VERSION

Using waste yarn and provisional method indicated in Pattern Notes, CO 40[50] sts.

First Wedge:
Row 1 [RS]: Using MC, k4, place marker, k to last 3 sts. Turn work. [4 brim sts]

Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [4 brim sts]

Row 3 [RS]: Using CC, kfb, k to marker, sk2p, k to next marker, remove marker, m1. Turn work. [5 brim sts]

Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. [5 brim sts]

Row 5 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 3. [6 brim sts]

Row 6 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. [6 brim sts]

Row 7 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 3. [7 brim sts]

Row 8 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. [7 brim sts]

Row 9 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 3. [8 brim sts]

Row 10 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. [8 brim sts]

Row 11 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 3. [9 brim sts]

Adult Size Only:
Row 12 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [9 brim sts]
Row 13 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 3. [10 brim sts]
Row 14 [WS]: Work as for Row 12. [10 brim sts]
Row 15 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 3. [11 brim sts]

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p to marker, k to end. [9(11) brim sts]
Next Row [RS]: Using MC, kfb, k to marker, k3tog, k to last st, kfb. Turn work. Wedge is complete. [10(12) brim sts]

Second Wedge:
Row 1 [WS]: Using MC, sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [8(10) brim sts]

Row 2 [RS]: Using CC, kfb, k to marker, k3tog, k to next marker, remove marker, m1. Turn work. [9(11) brim sts]

Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [7(9) brim sts]

Row 4 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [8(10) brim sts]

Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [6(8) brim sts]

Row 6 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 2. [7(9) brim sts]

Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [5(7) brim sts]

Row 8 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [6(8) brim sts]

Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [4(6) brim sts]

Row 10 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 2. [5(7) brim sts]

Row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [3(5) brim sts]

Row 12 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [4(6) brim sts]

Adult Size Only:
Row 13 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [4 brim sts]
Row 14 [RS]: Using CC, work as for Row 2. [5 brim sts]
Row 15 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, place marker, p to next marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [3 brim sts]
Row 16 [RS]: Using MC, work as for Row 2. [4 brim sts]

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p to marker, remove marker, k2, replace marker, k to end. [2 brim sts]
Next Row [RS]: Using CC, kfb, k to marker, k3tog, k to last st, kfb. Wedge is complete. [3 brim sts]

Third and Fifth Wedges:
Row 1 [WS]: Using CC, sl 1, p2, place marker, p to next marker, k to end. [3 brim sts]
Row 2 [RS]: Using MC, kfb, k to marker, sk2p, k to marker, remove marker, m1. Turn work. [4 brim sts]
Rows 3 through 12[16]: Work as for Rows 2 through 11[15] of First Wedge.
Work last two rows as for First Wedge.

Fourth and Sixth Wedges:
Work as for Second Wedge.

FINISHING

Both versions
When sixth wedge is complete, carefully remove waste yarn from CO edge, placing sts on needle so that tip of needle is pointing in same direction as tip of working needle.
Graft sts of CO edge to sts on working needle using CC.
Sew closed the small opening at top of hat. Weave in ends and block as desired.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Lee Meredith is a freelance photographer, writer, designer, and all-around crafter living in Portland, Oregon, and the force behind leethal, with her DIY blog and zine called do stuff!

She also makes yarn with old sweaters, new fiber, and her spinning wheel, and other creations with recycled materials that can all be found on leethal.net.