Knitty: Fall 2007

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by Weaverknits

Neiman is a fitted bottom-up seamless yoke sweater, featuring slightly asymmetrical stranded motifs around the yoke and silk hem facings.

This piece combines two of my passions: high-end fashion and handmade clothing. When shopping, I look closely at the content and quality of fibers used, the attention given to the details of the garment's construction, the color scheme, and, perhaps most importantly in the case of an expensive purchase, its wearability.

When designing this sweater, I was first inspired by the sheen and color of Debbie Bliss Pure Silk. Rather than create an entire garment from it, however, I wanted to accentuate its luminescence by contrasting it with another soft, luxurious yarn that had a matte finish and came in deep, rich tones. Rowan Wool Cotton, a favorite of mine for its versatility and durability, was my choice. Together, the yarns make this garment look and feel like a good splurge. Think of the tight gauge and thin yarn as investments in a garment you'll wear for years.

Suitable for year-round wear (layer it over a thin turtleneck when it gets cooler or wear it under a bulkier cardigan), Neiman is flattering to all figure types, and can be worn from the office to dinner, or to the beach on a late-summer evening.

model: Ann Weaver photos: Chris Bergh

SIZE

A[B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I] (shown in size A)
To fit chest circumference of 32 [34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 48, 52] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 33.25[35.75, 37.5, 40, 42, 44, 46, 50, 54] inches
Length from back neckline: 19 [20.5, 20.5, 22, 23, 23, 25, 26, 26.5] inches

MATERIALS

[MC] Rowan Wool Cotton [50% merino wool, 50% cotton; 123yd/113m per 50g skein]; color: #956 Coffee Rich; 7[8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16] skeins

[CC] Debbie Bliss Pure Silk [100% silk; 137yd/125m per 50 g skein]; color: #07 Turquoise; 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4] skeins

1 set US #2/2.75mm double-point needles

1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles

1 32-inch US #2/2.75mm circular needle

1 16-inch US #3/3.25mm circular needle

1 32-inch US#3/3.25mm circular needle

Stitch markers (ensure that one marker is different from the others)

Tapestry needle

GAUGE
26 sts/30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques
can be found here]

The front and back of the sweater are nearly identical; the only difference is the jog in the color pattern which occurs at the back left shoulder. You may find it helpful to sew a tag into the back of the sweater, or to weave a piece of contrasting yarn into the yarn floats on the inside of the work.

Blocking
Information about blocking can be found here and here.

PATTERN

LOWER BODY
Hem Facing:
Using CC and US #2/2.75mm circular needle, CO 216[232, 244, 260, 272, 286, 298, 324, 350] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Use the marker which is different from the others; this will be the end-of-round marker.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 1.5 inches.
P 1 round. This round forms a turning ridge for the hem. Break CC.

Hem:
Using #3/3.25mm circular needle and MC, work in stockinette st until work measures 1.5 inches from turning ridge.

Fold hem facing along turning ridge to inside of work.

Wrong sides of hem facing and hem are together, and CO edge is directly behind stitches on needle.

In next round, you will join hem and hem facing. It is helpful to press the hem fold before working this round.

Steam folded piece with a warm iron. DO NOT directly iron hem, just gently steam it flat.

Next Round: [Insert tip of left needle into st of CO edge which is directly behind first st on needle, k this st together with first stitch on needle] until all sts have been worked.
From this point, all length measurements will be measured from fold of hem.

Shape Waist:
Next Round: K108[116, 122, 130, 136, 143, 149, 162, 175], place marker, k to end.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 3[3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4.5, 5, 5] inches.

Waist Decrease Round: [K1, k2tog, k to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1] twice.
K 2 rounds.
Repeat these 3 rounds 6 times more. 188[204, 216, 232, 244, 258, 270, 296, 322] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 5.75[6.25, 6.25, 6.25, 6.75, 6.75, 7.25, 7.75, 7.75] inches.

Waist Increase Round: [K1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1] twice.
K 2 rounds.
Repeat these 3 rounds 6 times more. 216[232, 244, 260, 272, 286, 298, 324, 350] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 13[14, 14, 14.5, 15, 15, 16, 16.5, 16.5] inches.

Next Round: [K to 4(4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts before marker, BO 8(8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts, removing marker] twice, k to first set of bound-off sts.
Set lower body aside and work sleeves. Do not break yarn; begin first sleeve with a new ball of yarn.

SLEEVES
Using US #2/2.75mm double-point needles and CC, CO 68[70, 74, 76, 80, 83, 87, 98, 105] sts.
Work Hem Facing and Hem as for Lower Body.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 9[9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.5, 11, 11] inches or desired length to underarm, ending last round 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts before end of round.

BO 8[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10] sts. Break yarn, leaving a tail at least 6 inches long. Place remaining 60[62, 66, 68, 72, 75, 79, 88, 95] sts on hold on US #2/2.75mm circular needle or a spare set of double-point needles.
Make a second sleeve in the same way, but do not remove sts from working needles.

YOKE
Pick up lower body and resume working using attached ball of yarn, working all sts onto circular needle as follows. The point where the yarn is currently attached will be the end of the round and the back left shoulder seam, where the jog in the yoke pattern will be located.

Joining Round: Place marker, k held sts of one sleeve, k sts of lower body to next set of bound-off sts, k held sts of second sleeve, k sts of lower body to end of round.
320[340, 360, 380, 400, 420, 440, 480, 520] sts. Sleeves and body are now joined, with bound-off underarm sts of sleeves sitting opposite bound-off sts of body.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 1.5[2, 2, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 4.5, 5, 5.5] inches from Joining Round.
Note: While shaping yoke, switch to shorter circular needle when necessary.

Decrease Round 1: [K3, k2tog] to end. 256[272, 288, 304, 320, 336, 352, 384, 416] sts.
K 1 round.

Join CC and k all rounds of Yoke Chart. Do not break CC.
K 1 round using MC.
Work measures approx. 4[4.5, 4.5, 5.5, 6, 6, 7, 7.5, 8] inches from Joining Round.

Decrease Round 2: Using MC, [k2, k2tog] to end. 192[204, 216, 228, 240, 252, 264, 288, 312] sts.

Neckline:
Round 1: K all sts using MC.
Round 2: P all sts using MC.
Rounds 3-4: K all sts using CC.
Repeat these 4 rounds once, then work Rounds 1 and 2 once more.

Decrease Round 3: Using CC, [k1, k2tog] to end. 128[136, 144, 152, 160, 168, 176, 192, 208] sts.
K 1 round using CC.

Sizes A, B, C, D, E, F, G Only:
Work 4 rounds in garter st using MC, beginning with a k round.

Sizes H, I Only:
K 1 round. P 1 round.
Decrease Round 4: Using MC, [k6, k2tog] to end. -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 168, 182] sts.
Work 3 rounds in garter st using MC, beginning with a p round.

All Sizes:
BO all sts using CC.

FINISHING

Sew underarm seams.
Weave in ends.
Steam block carefully.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Weaverknits was born as a collaboration of two sisters who have been making things since they were born. Ann, an Indie Rock Secretary extensively trained in art and Assyriology, knits into being the garments that she envisions with Beth, an interior designer. The other members of the Weaver family serve as models, photographers, and consultants.

You can read more about it all on Ann's blog.