Knitty: Fall 2007

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By Laura Chau

Hit the streets in this sleek and sexy hoodie! This fitted raglan zippered cardigan is knit from a fabulous wool-silk-seacell blend with tons of drape and sheen. Edge-to-edge seed stitch breaks up variegated yarn wonderfully while keeping you warm. Front and back darts are marked with slipped stitch columns, and extra-long foldover cuffs keep those wrists and knitting hands toasty warm. The hood is generously sized (no flattened hair here!), but the depth can be adjusted by how deep you sew back the edging.

A note on working with variegated yarn such as Great Big Sea: each piece of this sweater was knit using a different ball of yarn, with not too many noticeable differences, but your mileage may vary! Check your skeins to make sure they blend well; you can hedge your bets by alternating between two balls. If you have trouble finding skeins that match exactly, try looking for two similar-but-different colorways to stripe together!

model: Alexis Da Silva-Powell photos: Michelle DesGroseilliers

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches
Length: 21.25[22.5, 24, 25.5, 27, 27, 28] inches

MATERIALS

Handmaiden Great Big Sea [50% silk, 30% wool, 20% Seacell; 275yd/250m per 100g skein]; color: Woodland; 5[6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10] skeins

1 set US #6/4mm straight needles or circular needle

1 set US #6/4mm double-point needles

1 spare needle, US #6/4mm or smaller

Split ring markers or safety pins

Stitch markers

Stitch holders

Tapestry needle

1 20[22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26]-inch separating or two-way separating zipper

Sewing needle and thread

GAUGE

22 sts/36 rows = 4 inches in Seed Stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

All slipped sts should be slipped purlwise with yarn held to WS of work, unless directed otherwise.

S2KP: Slip next 2 sts together, knitwise (as if working a ktog); k next st, pass slipped sts over st just knit. Forms a centered double decrease.

Wfb: Work into the front, then back of the next st. If the next st is a p st, work pfb. If it is a k st, kfb. 1 st increased.

W2tog: Work 2 sts together in pattern, forming a single decrease. If the next st would be a k st, work k2tog; if it would be a p st, work p2tog.

W3tog: Work 3 sts together in pattern, forming a double decrease. If the next st would be a k st, work k3tog; if it would be a p st, work p3tog.

Seed Stitch (Worked over an odd number of sts):
Row 1: K1, [p1, k1] to end.
Repeat this row for Seed Stitch.

Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.
Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. *Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*
Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

Applied I-Cord
Using double-point needle, CO 4 sts.
Next Row [RS]: K3, sl 1, pick up and k 1 st, pass slipped st over picked-up st.
Slide 4 sts just worked to other end of needle and bring yarn around back of work, ready to begin working the next row.
Repeat this row until all picked-up sts have been worked. BO remaining 4 sts.

PATTERN

BACK
Using straight or circular needle, CO 89[99, 111, 121, 133, 143, 155] sts.
Work in Seed Stitch until work measures 2 inches.

Note: In the next row, sts are marked using split ring markers or safety pins. Because of the type of decreases that will be worked, the markers are placed into the sts themselves, instead of on the needle. Move the markers up periodically as your work progresses.

Set-up Row [RS]: Work 28[32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50] sts in pattern, sl next st and place marker into it, work 31[33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53] sts in pattern, sl next st and place marker into it, work remaining 28[32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50] sts in pattern.

From this point until Back is complete, on WS rows, p marked sts. On all RS rows except Decrease Rows, slip marked sts.

Work 1 row in pattern.

Decrease Row [RS]: [Work in pattern to 1 st before marked st, S2KP] twice, work in pattern to end.

Work 15[15, 15, 19, 19, 15, 15] rows in pattern.

Repeat these 16[16, 16, 20, 20, 16, 16] rows 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times more. 77[87, 99, 109, 121, 127, 139] sts.
Work measures approx. 7.5[7.5, 7.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5] inches.

Work 0[2, 2, 0, 0, 2, 2] rows in pattern.

Increase Row [RS]: [Work in pattern to 1 st before marked st, wfb, sl 1, wfb] twice, work in pattern to end.
Work 15[17 17, 17, 19, 15, 15] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 16[18, 18, 18, 20, 16, 16] rows 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times more. 89[99, 111, 121, 133, 143, 155] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 13.5[14, 15, 16, 17, 17, 17.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
BO 4[6, 6, 8, 10, 10, 14] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 81[87, 99, 105, 113, 123, 127] sts.
Work 2 rows in pattern, working 2 sts at each edge in stockinette st. From this point, maintain these edge sts in stockinette st.

Raglan Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 9[10, 6, 8, 7, 3, 5] times more. 61[65, 85, 87, 97, 115, 115] sts.

Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 10[11, 21, 20, 24, 32, 30] times more.
Place remaining 39[41, 41, 45, 47, 49, 53] sts on st holder and break yarn.

LEFT FRONT
Using straight or circular needle, CO 45[49, 55, 61, 67, 71, 77] sts.
Work in Seed Stitch until work measures 2 inches.

Set-up Row [RS]: Work 28[32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 50] sts in pattern, sl next st and place marker into it, work in pattern to end.

From this point until piece is complete, on WS rows, p marked sts. On all RS rows except Decrease Rows, slip marked sts.

*Work 1 row in pattern.
Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 1 st before marked st, S2KP, work in pattern to end.

Work 15[15, 15, 19, 19, 15, 15] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 16[16, 16, 20, 20, 16, 16] rows 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times more. 39[43, 49, 55, 61, 63, 69] sts.
Work measures approx. 7.5[7.5, 7.5, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5] inches.

Work 0[2, 2, 0, 0, 2, 2] rows in pattern.
Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 1 st before marked st, wfb, sl 1, wfb, work in pattern to end.
Work 15[17, 17, 17, 19, 15, 15] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 16[18, 18, 18, 20, 16, 16] rows 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times more. 45[49, 55, 61, 67, 71, 77] sts.*

Continue in pattern until work measures 13.5[14, 15, 16, 17, 17, 17.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
Next Row [RS]: BO 4[6, 6, 8, 10, 10, 14] sts, work in pattern to end. 41[43, 49, 53, 57, 61, 63] sts.

Work 3 rows in pattern, working 2 sts at armhole edge in stockinette st.
From this point, maintain these edge sts in stockinette st.

Raglan Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 9[10, 6, 8, 7, 3, 5] times more. 31[32, 42, 44, 49, 57, 57] sts.

Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 16, 15, 19, 27, 25] times more. 25[25, 25, 28, 29, 29, 31] sts.

Shape Neckline:
Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Next Row [WS]: BO 6[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in pattern to end. 18[16, 16, 19, 20, 20, 22] sts.

Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more.

Place remaining 10[8, 8, 11, 12, 12, 14] sts on holder and break yarn.

RIGHT FRONT
Using straight or circular needle, CO 45[49, 55, 61, 67, 71, 77] sts.
Work in Seed Stitch until work measures 2 inches.

Set-up Row [RS]: Work 16[16, 18, 21, 23, 24, 26] sts in pattern, sl next st and place marker into it, work in pattern to end.
Work from * to * as for Left Front.
Continue in pattern until work measures 13.5[14, 15, 16, 17, 17, 17.5] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Armholes:
Next Row [WS]: BO 4[6, 6, 8, 10, 10, 14] sts, work in pattern to end. 41[43, 49, 53, 57, 61, 63] sts.
Work 2 rows in pattern, working 2 sts at armhole edge in stockinette st. From this point, maintain these edge sts in stockinette st.

Raglan Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 9[10, 6, 8, 7, 3, 5] times more. 31[32, 42, 44, 49, 57, 57] sts.

Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 16, 15, 19, 27, 25] times more. 25[25, 25, 28, 29, 29, 31] sts.

Shape Neckline:
Next Row [RS]: BO 6[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 18[16, 16, 19, 20, 20, 22] sts.
Work 1 row in pattern.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more.

Place remaining 10[8, 8, 11, 12, 12, 14] sts on holder and break yarn.

SLEEVES
Using straight or circular needle, CO 35[39, 41, 45, 47, 49, 53] st.
Work in Seed Stitch until work measures 6 inches.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 11[11, 9, 9, 9, 7, 7] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 12[12, 10, 10, 10, 8, 8] rows 10[11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 17] times more. 57[63, 69, 75, 79, 85, 89] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 22[23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 4[6, 6, 8, 10, 10, 14] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 49[51, 57, 59, 59, 65, 61] sts.
Work 2 rows in pattern, working 2 sts at each edge in stockinette st. From this point, maintain these edge sts in stockinette st.

Raglan Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 11[13, 12, 14, 16, 13, 17] times more. 25[23, 31, 29, 25, 37, 25] sts.

Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 6[5, 9, 8, 6, 12, 6] times more.

Place remaining 11 sts on st holder and break yarn.

HOOD
Sew Back and Front to Sleeves along shaped raglan edges, beginning with bound-off underarm sts and ending approx. 0.5 inch below held sts of each piece. Do not cut pieces of yarn used for sewing; seams will be completed after hood is worked.

With RS facing, continuing in Seed Stitch and working all sts onto straight or circular needle, pick up and work 10[12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12] sts (1 st in each bound-off st and 4 sts along shaped edge) along right front neckline edge, work held sts of right front, held sts of right sleeve, held sts of back, held sts of left sleeve, held sts of left front; pick up and work 10[12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12] sts along left front neckline edge. 101[103, 103, 113, 117, 119, 127] sts.

Next Row [WS]: Work 40[41, 41, 46, 48, 49, 53] sts in pattern, place marker, work 21 sts in pattern, place marker, work in pattern to end.

Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to marker, m1, slip marker, work in pattern to next marker, slip marker, m1, work in pattern to end.

Work 5 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6 rows 8 times more. 119[121, 121, 131, 135, 137, 145] sts.

Note: As written, hood is approx. 12.5 inches long. If you wish to adjust the length of the hood, work more or fewer rows in the next section.

Work 20 rows in Seed Stitch (25 rows worked after last Increase Row).

Decrease Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to 2 sts before marker, w2tog, work in pattern to next marker, w2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 5 times more. 107[109, 109, 119, 123, 125, 133] sts.

Decrease Row 2 [RS]: Work in pattern to 3 sts before marker, w3tog, work in pattern to next marker, w3tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. 83[85, 85, 95, 99, 101, 109] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to first marker, remove marker, work in pattern to 2 sts before second marker, w2tog, remove marker, work in pattern to end.
Slip 41[42, 42, 47, 49, 50, 54] sts to spare needle. Fold hood in half with right sides together, and join using Three-Needle bind off.

FINISHING

Work Applied I-Cord along right front edge from lower edge to beginning of neckline shaping, working 3 rows of I-Cord for every 4 rows of front edge. Work Applied I-Cord along left front edge in the same way, beginning at neckline shaping and ending at lower edge.

Finish sewing raglan seams.
Sew side seams and sleeve seams, reversing lower 3 inches of sleeve seams so that when cuff is turned back, seam will not show.

Try on hoodie to determine desired hood depth. Fold front edge of hood to inside until hood is desired depth, tapering depth of fold to allow a smooth transition to front edge at neckline. Sew in place.

Weave in ends and block sweater.
Sew in zipper.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Laura just graduated university, with a H.B.Sc. in Biology and Linguistics (why yes, it is a somewhat-unusual combination) and just wants to knit for a while. She teaches, dyes, designs and enables at lettuce knit in Toronto.