Knitty: Spring 2007 - Ribby Top with “armies”

<click for more!

by Wendy Knight

I love the way I can remove the "armies" from my cycling outfit once the exercise warms me up...then have only two small items to stuff into various pockets to carry. This ribby top is designed to be as versatile as my cycling gear, but with a much more attractive overall image! So... these "armies" can be easily stowed (until the weather inevitably grows chilly again), leaving a stylish classic top that can look dressy or casual as required.

Nothing too difficult here -- the rib zig zag and the saddle shoulder are interesting to knit, but don't need all your attention.

Although I have used a discontinued yarn, the DK weight makes substitution a breeze -- whether you choose summery cotton or wintery wool...or other fiber mixes suitable to your particular climate. The Tencel and wool blend in the photo gives a soft fabric with a touch of shimmer.

model: Libby Knight photos: Wendy Knight

SIZE

XS, [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 33.5[36.5, 39.5, 42.5, 45.5, 48, 51] inches
Length: 21.25[21.5, 22, 22.5, 22.75, 23, 23.5] inches

MATERIALS

Cleckheaton Tencel Wool [70% Tencel, 30% wool; 100yd/92m per 50g skein]; color: #2066 denim blue; 11[12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21] skeins.

1 set US #6/4.0mm straight needles

1 set US #5/3.75mm straight needles

1 set US #5/3.75mm double-point needles
Note: If you plan to work the rib sections on smaller needles as described in the introduction, you will need a total of five US #6/4.0mm straight or double-point needles and four US #5/3.75mm straight or double-point needles.

4 stitch holders

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

22 sts / 29 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, using US #6/4.0mm needles.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

If you want the rib section to remain firmer, work the zig zag sections on the smaller needles while you work the increasing sections of stockinette stitch on the larger needles (similar to working with double pointed needles, alternating the size of needle according to the stitch being used - see the photo of a sleeve in progress). It's interesting, the rib does stay firmer when worn, and the stockinette stitch remains soft and comfortable.

The sweater pattern is first; the "armies" pattern follows afterward.

PATTERN

BACK
Using US #5/3.75mm needles, CO 94[102, 110, 118, 126, 134, 142] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p2, k2] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 4.5 inches, ending with a RS row.

Next Row [WS]: Work 2[6, 10, 2, 6, 10, 14] sts in pattern, place marker, work in pattern to last 2[6, 10, 2, 6, 10, 14] sts, place marker, work to end.

Begin Ribbed Zigzag Pattern
At this point, you may either begin working with US #6/4.0mm needles or, as the zigzag pattern progresses, work the widening stockinette portions on US #6/4.0mm needles while working the narrowing ribbed portions on US #5/3.75mm needles.

Sizes XS, S, M Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K to marker, [work 26 sts in rib as set, k6] twice, work 26 sts in rib as set, k to end.
Row 2 [WS]: P to marker, [work 26 sts in rib as set, p6] twice, work 26 sts in rib as set, p to end.
Work Rows 1 and 2 three times more.

Row 3 [RS]: K to marker, [k4, work 18 sts in rib as set, k10] twice, k4, work 18 sts in rib as set, k4, k to end.
Row 4 [WS]: P to marker, [p4, work 18 sts in rib as set, p10] twice, p4, work 18 sts in rib as set, p4, p to end.
Work Rows 3 and 4 three times more.

Row 5 [RS]: K to marker, [k8, work 10 sts in rib as set, k14] twice, k8, work 10 sts in rib as set, k8, k to end.
Row 6 [WS]: P to marker, [p8, work 10 sts in rib as set, p14] twice, p8, work 10 sts in rib as set, p8, p to end.
Work Rows 5 and 6 three times more.

Row 7 [RS]: K to marker, [k12, p2, k18] twice, k12, p2, k12, k to end.
Row 8 [WS]: P to marker, [p12, k2, p18] twice, p12, k2, p12, p to end.
Work Rows 7 and 8 three times more.

Sizes L, XL, 2X, 3X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K to marker, [work 34 sts in rib as set, k6] twice, work 34 sts in rib as set, k to end.
Row 2 [WS]: P to marker, [work 34 sts in rib as set, p6] twice, work 34 sts in rib as set, p to end.
Work Rows 1 and 2 three times more.

Row 3 [RS]: K to marker, [k4, work 26 sts in rib as set, k10] twice, k4, work 26 sts in rib as set, k4, k to end.
Row 4 [WS]: P to marker, [p4, work 26 sts in rib as set, p10] twice, p4, work 26 sts in rib as set, p4, p to end.
Work Rows 3 and 4 three times more.

Row 5 [RS]: K to marker, [k8, work 18 sts in rib as set, k14] twice, k8, work 18 sts in rib as set, k8, k to end.
Row 6 [WS]: P to marker, [p8, work 18 sts in rib as set, p14] twice, p8, work 18 sts in rib as set, p8, p to end.
Work Rows 5 and 6 three times more.

Row 7 [RS]: K to marker, [k12, work 10 sts in rib as set, k18] twice, k12, work 10 sts in rib as set, k12, k to end.
Row 8 [WS]: P to marker, [p12, work 10 sts in rib as set, p18] twice, p12, work 10 sts in rib as set, p12, p to end.
Work Rows 7 and 8 three times more.

Row 9 [RS]: K to marker, [k16, p2, k22] twice, k16, p2, k16, k to end.
Row 10 [WS]: P to marker, [p16, k2, p22] twice, p16, k2, p16, p to end.
Work Rows 9 and 10 three times more.

All Sizes:
Using US #6/4.0mm needles, work in stockinette stitch until work measures 13.75 inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes
BO 7[7, 8, 8, 9, 11, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 80[88, 94, 102, 108, 112, 120] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 8] times more. 70[74, 80, 86, 90, 94, 102] sts.

Continue in stockinette stitch until work measures 19.75[20, 20.5, 21, 21.25, 21.5, 22] inches (armholes measure 6[6.25, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5, 7.75, 8.25] inches), ending with a WS row.

Note: The armholes may seem shallow at this point, but don't worry! The shoulder saddles will add approx. 1.25 inches to the depth of the armholes and the length of the sweater.

BO 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11] sts at beginning of next 4 rows. 42[42, 48, 50, 54, 54, 58] sts.
BO 8[7, 9, 9, 10, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Place remaining 26[28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38] sts on a stitch holder.

FRONT
Work as for Back until work is 6[8, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16] rows shorter than Back to beginning of shoulder shaping.

Shape Neckline
Next Row [RS]: K27[29, 32, 35, 37, 38, 42], place remaining 43[45, 48, 51, 53, 56, 60] sts on stitch holder.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, p to end.

Next Row [RS]: K to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6] times more. 24[25, 27, 29, 30, 31, 34] sts.

Next Row [RS]: BO 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11] sts, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.

BO remaining 8[7, 9, 9, 10, 9, 10] sts.

Leaving 16[16, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18] sts on stitch holder at center front of neckline, place held 27[29, 32, 35, 37, 38, 42] sts of right shoulder on needle with RS facing and reattach yarn.
K to end.
Next Row [WS]: P to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6] times more. 24[25, 27, 29, 30, 31, 34] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end.
Next Row [WS]: BO 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11] sts, p to end.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.

K 1 row.
BO remaining 8[7, 9, 9, 10, 9, 10] sts.

SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using US #5/3.75mm needles, CO 66[74, 82, 82, 90, 90, 98] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p2, k2] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more.

As for Back and Front, at this point you may either begin working with US #6/4.0mm needles, or work the widening stockinette portions on US #6/4.0mm needles while working the narrowing ribbed portion on US #5/3.75mm needles.

Note: Read ahead! Rib pattern shaping and sleeve shaping are worked at the same time, beginning on the next row.

Rib Pattern
Pattern Row 1 [RS]: K14[18, 22, 22, 26, 26, 30], place marker, work 38 sts in rib as set, place marker, k14[18, 22, 22, 26, 26, 30].
Work 7 rows in pattern as set.

Pattern Row 2: K to marker, k4, work 30 sts in rib as set, k to end.
Work 7 rows in pattern as set.

Pattern Row 3 [RS]: K to marker, k8, work 22 sts in rib as set, k to end.
Work 7 rows in pattern as set.

Pattern Row 4 [RS]: K to marker, k12, work 14 sts in rib as set, k to end.
Work in pattern as set until sleeve is complete.
AT THE SAME TIME, shape sleeve as follows:
Work 2 rows in pattern.

Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 72[80, 88, 88, 96, 96, 104] sts.

Shape Sleeve Cap
Working in pattern as set, BO 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] sts, at beginning of next 2 rows. 66[72, 80, 80, 86, 86, 92] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 18[17, 15, 19, 18, 20, 21] times more. 28[36, 48, 40, 48, 44, 48] sts.
Work Decrease Row as above.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[4, 7, 5, 7, 6, 7] times more. 16 sts remain.

Shoulder Saddle
Continue working the remaining 16 sts in pattern until work measures 4[4, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.25, 5.75] inches from top of sleeve, ending with a WS row. Place sts on stitch holder.

NECKBAND
Block all pieces to measurements shown in schematic, but do not block ribbed sections.

Sew edges of Saddles to bound-off shoulder stitches of Front and Back.
With RS facing, beginning at right edge of left shoulder saddle and using US #5/3.75mm double-point needles, work 16 held sts of left saddle, pick up and k 6[8, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16] sts along shaped edge of left front neckline, k 16[16, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18] held sts of front neckline, pick up and k 6[8, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16] sts along shaped edge of right front neckline, work held sts of right saddle, k 26[28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38] held sts of back neckline. 86[92, 98, 104, 110, 114, 120] sts. Join to work in the round.

Sizes XS, M, XL, 3X Only:
When working next round, decrease 2 sts evenly across back neckline.

Sizes 2X, 3X Only:
When working next round, increase 2 sts evenly across front neckline.

All Sizes:
There are 84[92, 96, 104, 108, 116, 120] sts.
Next Round: K1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Repeat this round 10 times more, or until neckband is desired length.

BO all sts loosely in rib.

FINISHING

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
Weave in all ends.

ARMIES

Note: You may not wish to make the size of Armies which corresponds to your sweater size. Have a look at the measurements shown in the schematic at right, measure your arms, and decide which size will fit you best. Remember that the Armies will only stay up if they are slightly snug-fitting.

Using US #5/3.75mm needles, CO 46[46, 50, 50, 54, 54, 58] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p2, k2] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more.

When increasing stitches as follows, work increased stitches into rib pattern.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 11[9, 9, 7, 5, 5, 5] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 12[10, 10, 8, 6, 6, 6] rows 1[5, 5, 7, 1, 8, 8] times more. 50[58, 62, 66, 58, 72, 76] sts.

Work Increase Row.
Work 13[11, 11, 9, 7, 7, 7] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 14[12, 12, 10, 8, 8, 8] rows 4[2, 2, 2, 9, 4, 4] times more. 60[64, 68, 72, 78, 82, 86] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 14 inches or desired length.
BO all sts loosely in rib.

FINISHING

Sew long side edges together and weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Wendy began knitting when she was four (thanks, Mum). She serendipitously landed a job in pattern writing at Patons in Melbourne, Australia, the same week she dropped out of university. Many years later, after completing a Studio Textiles diploma while raising a family, she is a freelance writer, possibly giving her a chance to use up some of that yarn stash...or (more likely) just more opportunities to contribute to it.

She now lives near Geelong. Visit her here.