Knitty: Summer 2007

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by Olga Buraya-Kefelian

The idea for this top was born as my runway interpretation for those sexy summer tops women like to wear very light and drapey, with a touch of elegance and some extra spice in the back. Close-fitted shaping of the body brings out the best of you and it can be done fast as it's worked in one piece. Wrap your body with the luxury of silk because you deserve it! Dress it up - be the most sophisticated lady in the party! A little peek of bare skin will surely turn heads. Dress it down - don't be afraid to experiment with layering, wear it as a vest on top of a light turtleneck or a tee and a pair or jeans. Oh, and don't forget to accessorize!

To eliminate any extra finishing, the hem of the top is made at the very beginning and knitted into the garment; all you need is to steam it when you are done knitting.

model: Olga Buraya-Kefelian photos: Paloma Corchon

SIZE

XS [S, M, L, 1XL, 2XL, 3XL]
To fit bust size 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 27 [31, 35, 39, 43, 47, 51] inches (approx. 3-inch space between back edges)
Length: 19.5[20, 21, 21.5, 22.5, 23, 24] inches

MATERIALS

Alchemy Silken Straw [100 % silk; 236 yd/216 m per 40g skein]; Color: 42M Silver; 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] skeins

1 set US #6/4mm double-point needles

1 US #6/4mm circular needle, 32 or 40 inch (80 or 100 cm) length

1 spare circular needle, US #6/4mm or smaller, 24 inches (60cm) or longer

Crochet hook

Waste yarn

4 stitch markers

Tapestry needle

3.5-5 yd (3.2-4.6m) satin ribbon, 1 inch (2.5cm) wide

Sewing needle and thread to match garment

GAUGE

20 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using 2 strands of yarn held together

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

The lower body of this top is worked in one piece to the underarms, then the top is divided for the upper front and back. The front and back are grafted together at the shoulders.

Sl1wyif: Slip 1 stitch with yarn held to front of work.
Sl1yib: Slip 1 stitch with yarn held to back of work.

Tubular Edging
RS Rows: K1, sl1wyif, k to last 2 sts, sl1wyif, k1.
WS Rows: Sl1wyib, k1, sl1wyib, p to last 3 sts, sl1wyib, k1, sl1wyib.

Crochet Cast On
Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each ch until the required number of sts have been picked up. Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting live sts picked up.

Applied I-Cord:
Using double-point needle, CO 4 sts.
Next Row [RS]: K3, sl 1, use tip of right needle to pick up first live st, pass slipped st over picked-up st.
Slide 4 sts just worked to other end of needle and bring yarn around back of work, ready to begin working the next row.
Repeat this row until all picked-up sts have been worked. BO remaining 4 sts.
Note: A great tutorial for this technique can be found here

RLI (Right Lifted Increase): Use the right needle to pick up the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle. Place this stitch on the left needle, then knit into it. 1 stitch has been increased.

LLI (Left Lifted Increase): Use the left needle to pick up the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right needle. Knit into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.

PATTERN

Note: This pattern is worked using 2 strands of yarn held together throughout.

Lower Body
Using circular needle and crochet cast-on (or other provisional cast on method), CO 145[165, 185, 205, 225, 245, 265] sts.

Hem
Rows 1-4: Work in stockinette st, beginning with a RS row.

Row 5 [RS]: P all sts.

Rows 6-8: Work in stockinette st, beginning with a WS row.

Remove waste yarn from CO edge and place resulting live sts on spare circular needle. Fold work to WS along ridge formed by Row 5, so that spare needle is directly behind working needle.

Row 9 [RS]: K first st from working needle together with first st from spare needle; continue in this way, working each st from working needle together with corresponding st from spare needle, until all sts have been worked.
Hem is complete. From this point, measure work from Row 5 (turning ridge of hem).

Beginning on the next row, work Tubular Edging (see Pattern Notes) at each edge of work. Maintain Tubular Edging along side edges of work until piece is complete.
Note: Directions for Tubular Edging are not included in line-by-line directions which follow. When the pattern says K10, for example, sts of edging are included in those 10 sts.

Work in stockinette st, maintaining edges in Tubular Edging, until work measures 1 inch, ending with a WS row.

Set-up Row [RS]: K20[22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 34], place marker, k 26 [30, 34, 38, 40, 44, 48], place marker, k 53 [61, 67, 75, 85, 93, 101], place marker, k 26 [30, 34, 38, 40, 44, 48], place marker, k20[22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 34].

Work 1 WS row.
Decrease Row [RS]: [K to marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog] twice, k to end. 4 sts decreased.
Work 3[3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5] rows.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6] rows 5 times more, then work Decrease Row once more. 117[137,157, 177, 197, 217, 237] sts.

Work until piece measures 6.5[6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8] inches, ending with a WS row.

Note: Read ahead before proceeding. Waist shaping and short-row bust shaping are worked at the same time.

Increase Row [RS]: [K to marker, slip marker, LLI, k to next marker, RLI, slip marker] twice, work to end. 4 sts increased.
Work 9 rows.
Repeat these 10 rows 3 times more, then work Increase Row once more. 137[157, 177, 197, 217, 237, 257] sts.
AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 11[11, 11.5, 12, 12, 12, 12.5] inches, ending with a WS row, work short-row bust darts as follows. The bust darts are worked between the second and third markers, which delineate the center front panel.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Short-row bust dart directions given below are for cup sizes A[B, C, D, DD]. They do not correspond to sizes XS-3X. Work bust shaping according to your cup size, not according to size of garment!

Row 1 [RS]: K to 2 sts before third marker, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to 2 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K to 1 st before previous wrapped st, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to 1 st before previous wrapped st, W&T.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4, 3[3, 5, 7, 9] times more.

Bust darts are complete. When working the 2 rows which follow the short rows, pick up wraps and work them together with the respective wrapped sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 12.5[12.5, 13, 13.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Front Armholes
Row 1 [RS]: K to first marker, remove marker, k11[13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22], place 31[35, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] sts just worked on waste yarn; k to second marker, remove marker, k to third marker, remove marker, k10[12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21]; wrap next st and turn work, placing last 31[35, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] sts of row on waste yarn, removing fourth marker (do not place wrapped st on holder). 75[87, 97, 109, 121, 133, 145] sts on needle.

Row 2 [WS]: P to last st, W&T.

Row 3 [RS]: K to last 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, W&T.

Row 4 [WS]: P to last 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, W&T.

Row 5 [RS]: K to last 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts, W&T.

Row 6 [WS]: P to last 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts, W&T.

Row 7 [RS]: K to last 12[12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20] sts, W&T.

Row 8 [WS]: P to last 12[12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20] sts, W&T.

Place 12[12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20] sts at each edge of work on waste yarn (use new pieces of waste yarn; do not place these sts on same pieces of yarn as held sts of right and left back). 51[63, 65, 77, 89, 93, 105] sts.

Working Tubular Edging at each edge of work, continue in stockinette st until work measures 17[17.5, 18.5, 19, 20, 20.5, 21.5] inches (armhole measures 4.5[5, 5.5, 5.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5] inches), ending with a WS row.

Shape Neckline
Next Row [RS]: K11[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 20] and place these sts on hold on a double-point needle or spare circular needle for left shoulder; k29[37, 39, 47, 55, 59, 65] and place these sts on waste yarn; working Tubular Edging at each side of remaining 11[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 20] sts, k to end.
Continue in stockinette st, maintaining Tubular Edging at each edge of work, until work measures 19[19.5, 20.5, 21, 22, 22.5, 23.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Right Front Shoulder
Row 1 [RS]: K8[9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 13], W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Row 3 [RS]: K4[4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 7], W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to end.
Row 5 [RS]: K all sts, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts.
Break yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Place sts on hold on double-point needle.

Replace held sts of left shoulder on needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn.
Continue in stockinette st, maintaining Tubular Edging at each edge of work, until work measures 19[19.5, 20.5, 21, 22, 22.5, 23.5] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Left Front Shoulder
Row 1 [WS]: P8[9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 13], W&T.
Row 2 [RS]: K to end.
Row 3 [WS]: P4[4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 7], W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: K to end.
Row 5 [WS]: P all sts, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts.
Break yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Place sts on hold on double-point needle.

RIGHT BACK
Replace held sts of right back on needle with RS facing and rejoin yarn (yarn will be joined at armhole edge). Maintaining Tubular Edging at back edge, k to end.
Row 1 [WS]: P to last st, W&T.
Row 2 [RS]: K to end.
Row 3 [WS]: P to last 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: K to end.
Row 5 [WS]: P to last 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts, W&T.
Row 6 [RS]: K to end.
Row 7 [WS]: P to last 12[12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20] sts, W&T.
Place 12[12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20] underarm sts on waste yarn and k to end. 19[23, 24, 28, 32, 32, 36] sts.

Working Tubular Edging at each edge of work, continue in stockinette st until work measures 17.5[18, 19, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 22] inches (armhole measures 5[5.5, 6, 6, 7, 7.5, 8] inches), ending with a RS row.

Shape Neckline
Next Row [WS]: P8[10, 11, 13, 15, 15, 16] and place these sts on waste yarn; working Tubular Edging at each side of remaining 11[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 20] sts, p to end.
Continue in stockinette st, maintaining Tubular Edging at each edge of work, until work measures 19[19.5, 20.5, 21, 22, 22.5, 23.5] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape shoulder as for Left Front Shoulder.
Graft to held sts of Right Front Shoulder.

LEFT BACK
Replace held sts of left back on needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn (yarn will be joined at armhole edge). Maintaining Tubular Edging at back edge, p to end.

Row 1 [RS]: K to last st, W&T.

Row 2 [WS]: P to end.

Row 3 [RS]: K to last 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, W&T.

Row 4 [WS]: P to end.

Row 5 [RS]: K to last 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts, W&T.

Row 6 [WS]: P to end.

Row 7 [RS]: K to last 12[12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20] sts, W&T.

Place 12[12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20] underarm sts on waste yarn and p to end. 19[23, 24, 28, 32, 32, 36] sts.
Working Tubular Edging at each edge of work, continue in stockinette st until work measures 17.5[18, 19, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 22] inches (armhole measures 5[5.5, 6, 6, 7, 7.5, 8] inches), ending with a WS row.

Shape Neckline
Next Row [RS]: K8[10, 11, 13, 15, 15, 16] and place these sts on waste yarn; working Tubular Edging at each side of remaining 11[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 20] sts, k to end.
Continue in stockinette st, maintaining Tubular Edging at each edge of work, until work measures 19[19.5, 20.5, 21, 22, 22.5, 23.5] inches, ending with a WS row.
Shape shoulder as for Right Front Shoulder.
Graft to held sts of Left Front Shoulder.

FINISHING

Neckline Facing
Place held sts of front neckline on needles with RS facing and reattach yarn.
P 1 RS row to form turning ridge.
Work 6 rows in stockinette st, beginning with a WS row.
Loosely BO all sts. Break yarn, leaving a long tail.
Fold facing along turning ridge to WS of work, and steam crease lightly. Use tail to sew down edge of facing.

Work Applied I-Cord over all sts of back neckline and of each underarm. When working underarm sts, pick up short-row wraps and work them together with wrapped sts.

Weave in all ends.

Cut 6 17-inch lengths of ribbon, and 2 additional pieces that are each the length of the back edge of the garment.

Pin 17-inch lengths of ribbon to back edges of garment, using photo as guide. Try on garment to ensure that ribbon placement will work well when top is worn. Once best placement has been determined, sew securely in place.

Sew remaining lengths of ribbon along inside of back garment edges.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Olga has been knitting since the age of 4 and designing her own garments for the past 9 years. She enjoys the challenge that each technique can bring and acquires her inspiration from the mesmerising world of fashion blended with classics.

You can see more of her adventures in the vast world of craft here.