Hey Teach cardigan - Summer 2008

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by Hélène Rush What to call this sweater? Let me think… I’ve been designing for over 25 years so after a while, I just run out of ideas. So, in honor of my daughter (the volunteered model) and her dedication to her profession (high school history teacher), I’m calling this one “Hey, Teach!” When I came up with this idea, I could see wearing a tank top underneath it in a very casual way. So I sent her off to get ready for the photo expecting that. True to her own style, she totally dressed it up with a collared blouse, turning this easy-wear garment into a playtime-to-office piece in an instant. I am particularly fond of this “baby doll” fit. I think it flatters all shapes – it adds hips to the boyish figure, and hides hips of the pear-shaped. You could even work a drawstring in and out of the first row of lace for an added detail. The yoke lace pattern is easy enough to master but requires you to pay attention to your YOs and matching decreases throughout the underarm and neck shaping so you don’t end up with too many or too few stitches. I used 2nd Time Cotton, an eco-friendly recycled cotton yarn, as a nod to Mother Earth.
model: Kelly-Anne Rush photos: Hélène Rush


SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32.25[35.5, 39, 43, 46.75, 50.75, 55] inches Length: 19.5[20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5] inches

MATERIALS
Knit One, Crochet Too 2nd Time Cotton [75% recycled cotton, 25% acrylic; 180yd/165m per 100g ball]; color #810 Linen; 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] balls Recommended needle size: 1 pair US #8/5mm straight needles [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] 2 stitch markers 4 stitch holders Tapestry needle 4 buttons, 0.75 inch diameter

GAUGE
17 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
Shaping Note: Within the lace pattern, each [yo] is paired with a decrease. When increasing or decreasing at edge of work (ie. when shaping armholes and neckline), be sure to keep lace pattern correct. Do not work a [yo] if there are not enough sts to work its accompanying decrease. S2KP: Slip next 2 sts to right needle as if to knit them together; k next st, pass both slipped stitches, together, over stitch just knit. Forms a centered double decrease. 1x1 Rib (Worked over an odd number of sts): Row 1 [RS]: K1, [p1, k1] to end. Row 2 [WS]: P1, [k1, p1] to end. Repeat these 2 rows for 1x1 Rib. Please note: "Lace pattern" refers to the entire width of the chart below, not just what's inside the red square.

DIRECTIONS
BACK CO 75[83, 91, 99, 107, 115, 125] sts. Work 4 rows in 1x1 Rib, ending with a WS row. Work in stockinette st until work measures 8 inches from CO edge, ending with a RS row. Next Row [WS]: P5[5, 4, 8, 8, 7, 8], p2tog, [p5(6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10), p2tog] nine times, p5[4, 4, 8, 7, 7, 7]. 65[73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 115] sts. Work 8 rows in 1x1 Rib, ending with a WS row. Bodice: Set-up Row [RS]: K2[0, 4, 2, 0, 4, 3], work in Lace Pattern to last 2[0, 4, 2, 0, 4, 3] sts, k2[0, 4, 2, 0, 4, 3]. This row sets pattern for bodice. Pattern Repeat section outlined in red is worked 4[5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] times in each row. Continue in pattern as set, maintaining 2[0, 4, 2, 0, 4, 3] sts at each edge in stockinette st, until work measures 13 inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Armholes: Note: See “Shaping Note” in Pattern Notes, above. BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 57[63, 69, 75, 81, 87, 95] sts. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] times more. 53[59, 63, 69, 73, 79, 85] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 18.5[19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5] inches (armhole measures 5.5[6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5] inches), ending with a WS row. Shape Back Neckline: Next Row [RS]: Work 13[15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23] sts in pattern, place next 27[29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39] sts on st holder, join new ball of yarn and work last 13[15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23] sts in pattern. Work 5 more rows in pattern, working each set of 13[15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23] sts using attached ball of yarn. Work measures 19.5[20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.5] inches. BO both sets of sts. LEFT FRONT CO 37[41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61] sts. Work 4 rows in 1x1 Rib, ending with a WS row. Work in stockinette st until work measures 8 inches from CO edge, ending with a RS row. Next Row [WS]: [P6(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12), p2tog] four times, p5. 33[37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57] sts. Work 8 rows in 1x1 Rib, ending with a WS row. Bodice: Set-up Row [RS]: K2[0, 4, 2, 0, 4, 3], work 25[37, 37, 37, 49, 49, 49] sts in Lace Pattern, k6[0, 0, 6, 0, 0, 5]. This row sets pattern for bodice. Pattern Repeat section outlined in red is worked 1[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] times in each row. Continue in pattern as set until work measures 13 inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Armholes: Note: See “Shaping Note” in Pattern Notes, above. Next Row [RS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, continue in pattern to end. 29[32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47] sts P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to end. Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] times more. 27[30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 14.5[15, 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5] inches (armhole measures 1.5[2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5] inches), ending with a WS row. Shape Neckline: Next Row [RS]: Work 13[15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23] sts in pattern, place last 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19] sts on st holder. Work remaining sts in pattern until work measures same as back to shoulder. BO all sts. RIGHT FRONT CO 37[41, 45, 49, 53, 57, 61] sts. Work 4 rows in 1x1 Rib, ending with a WS row. Work in stockinette st until work measures 8 inches from CO edge, ending with a RS row. Next Row [WS]: P5, [p2tog, p6(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12)] four times. 33[37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57] sts. Work 8 rows in 1x1 Rib, ending with a WS row. Bodice: Set-up Row [RS]: K6[0, 0, 6, 0, 0, 5], work 25[37, 37, 37, 49, 49, 49] sts in Lace Pattern, k2[0, 4, 2, 0, 4, 3]. This row sets pattern for bodice. Pattern Repeat section outlined in red is worked 1[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] times in each row. Continue in pattern as set until work measures 13 inches, ending with a RS row. Shape Armholes: Note: See “Shaping Note” in Pattern Notes, above. Next Row [WS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, p to end. 29[32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47] sts Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] times more. 27[30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 42] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 14.5[15, 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5] inches (armhole measures 1.5[2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5] inches), ending with a RS row. Shape Neckline: Next Row [WS]: P13[15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23], place last 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19] sts on st holder. Work remaining sts in pattern until work measures same as back to shoulder. BO all sts. SLEEVES (Make 2) CO 45[49, 55, 59, 65, 69, 75] sts. Work 4 rows in 1x1 Rib. Set-up Row [RS]: K4[0, 3, 5, 2, 4, 1], work 37[49, 49, 49, 61, 61, 73] sts in Lace Pattern, k4[0, 3, 5, 2, 4, 1]. This row sets pattern for sleeve. Pattern Repeat section outlined in red is worked 2[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] times in each row. Continue in pattern as set, maintaining 4[0, 3, 5, 2, 4, 1] sts at each edge in stockinette st, until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Sleeve Cap: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 37[39, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55] sts. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 6[7, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15] times more. 23[23, 21, 21, 21, 21, 23] sts. BO 2 sts at beginning of next 6 rows. BO remaining 11[11, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11] sts.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block pieces to measurements shown in schematic. Sew shoulder seams. Neckline Ribbing: With RS facing, k held 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19] sts of right front neckline, place marker; pick up and k 28 sts (approx. 3 sts for every 4 rows) along vertical front and back neckline edge, place marker; k held 27[29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39] sts of back neckline, placing marker before last st; pick up and k 28 sts along vertical back and front neckline edge, placing marker before last st; k held 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19] sts of left front neckline. 111[115, 119, 123, 127, 131, 133] sts. Row 1 [WS]: P1[2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2], [k1, p1] to last 0[1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 1] sts, p0[1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 1]. Row 2 [RS]: [Work in 1x1 Rib as set to 1 st before marker, S2KP, removing marker] four times, continue in 1x1 Rib as set to end. BO remaining 103[107, 111, 115, 119, 123, 125] sts in pattern. Button Band: With RS facing, beginning at upper corner of left front edge, pick up and k 73[75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 87] sts (approx. 4 sts for every 5 rows) along left front edge. Work 5 rows in 1x1 Rib. BO all sts in pattern. Buttonhole Band: With RS facing, beginning at lower corner of right front edge, pick up and k 73[75, 77, 79, 81, 83, 87] sts along right front edge. Work 2 rows in 1x1 Rib. Buttonhole Row [WS]: Work 3 sts in pattern, [yo, k2tog, work 16(16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19) sts in pattern] 3 times, yo, k2tog, continue in pattern to end. Work 2 rows in 1x1 Rib. BO all sts in pattern. Sew buttons to button band opposite buttonholes. Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams. Weave in any remaining ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Hélène Rush is the mom of both Kelly-Anne, the model in the photos, and Knit One, Crochet Too, the yarn company. Her sons Jonathan and Benjamin both work with her but have yet to be converted into knitters (they do however know their yarns!). She’s been living with yarn since learning how to knit from the nuns in Montreal in first grade. She must have been a very good girl because she gets to play with yarn all day now.
Pattern & images © 2008 Hélène Rush. Contact Hélène