Inverness cardigan - Summer 2008

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by Heidi Adams I daydream a ridiculous amount of time, and one of the things I frequently think about is traveling. I always have a “top 10 places to visit next” list in my head, and I research the heck out of each place until I know as much as possible about its culture, climate, food, weekly round-trip ticket prices from Seattle, and even sometimes the local language. Mostly though, I love the tales found in a region’s history, stories where you could say, “On this very spot, such-and-such occurred and things were never the same again.” At the top of my list is always the Highlands of Scotland, full of legend and excitement throughout its history. From Macbeth to Queen Mary and the Scottish clans, Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites to my favorite, the Loch Ness Monster, Scotland is a rich place for dreamers. “Inverness” is thus my summertime ode to traveling and Scotland. Easy to wad up and toss in your bag, just as easy to button up for warmth in the evening. It’s knit in reverse stockinette with knitted stripes for texture, repeated on the front panels along with a diagonal pattern made from a seed stitch rib. The shorter sleeves and wide neck nod to seasonal fashion, but the structured shaping and clean lines give it a sharp, vintage look that still feels feminine. And maybe a bit mysterious, like the tales of far away places.
model: Anne-Marie Patrick photos: Heidi Adams


SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 31[35, 38.5, 42, 47, 51, 55] inches Length: 19.75[21, 22.5, 24, 25, 25.5, 26.5] inches

MATERIALS
Debbie Bliss Cathay [50% cotton, 35% viscose microfibre, 15% silk; 109yd/100m per 50g skein]; color: #07 Teal; 8[9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 16] skeins Recommended needle size: 1 set US #4/3.5mm straight needles 1 set US #5/3.75mm straight needles [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] Stitch holder Tapestry needle Safety pins or split ring markers 8[8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11] buttons Note: Buy buttons after completing cardigan, to determine best size for buttonholes. Buttons shown have 0.75 inch diameter.

GAUGE
20 sts/26 rows = 4 inches in 1x8 Rib using larger needles

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html C2B: Sl next st to cable needle and hold to back of work; k1, k1 from cable needle. C2BP: Sl next st to cable needle and hold to back of work; k1, p1 from cable needle. C2F: Sl next st to cable needle and hold to front of work; k1, k1 from cable needle. C2FP: Sl next st to cable needle and hold to front of work; p1, k1 from cable needle. Dec 1: Decrease 1 st in pattern, as follows: When decreasing at the beginning of a row, if the stitch after the next st on the left needle is a p st, p2tog. If it is a k st, k2tog. When decreasing at the end of a row, if the next st is a p st, p2tog. If it is a k st, ssk. Inc 1: When increasing in pattern, if next st in pattern would be a p st, work m1p. If it would be a k st, work m1. m1p: Make 1 purl stitch: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl into front of this stitch. m1: Make 1 knit stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 3 sts + 1): Row 1 [RS]: P3, [k1, p2] to last st, p1. Row 2 [WS]: K3, [p1, k2] to last st, k1. Repeat these 2 rows for 1x2 Rib. 1x8 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 9 sts + 7): Row 1 [RS]: P3, k1, [p8, k1] to last 3 sts, p3. Row 2 [WS]: K3, p1, [k8, p1] to last 3 sts, k3. Repeat these 2 rows for 1x8 Rib.

DIRECTIONS
BACK Using smaller needles, CO 79[88, 97, 106, 115, 124, 133] sts. K 2 rows. Work 6 rows in 1x2 Rib. Using larger needles, work in 1x8 Rib until work measures 4.5[4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6] inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Waist: See Pattern Notes re. decreasing and increasing in pattern. Decrease Row [RS]: P1, dec 1, work in pattern to last 3 sts, dec 1, p1. Work 3 rows in pattern as set. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 71[80, 89, 98, 107, 116, 125] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 9.5[9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11, 11] inches, ending with a WS row. Row 1 [RS]: P1, inc 1, work in pattern to last st, inc 1, p1. Work 3 rows in pattern as set. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 79[88, 97, 106, 115, 124, 133] sts . Continue in pattern until work measures 13.5[14, 15, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 17] inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Armholes BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 71[78, 85, 92, 99, 106, 113] sts. Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, 95, 102, 109] sts. All Sizes: Decrease Row [RS]: P1, dec 1, work in pattern to last 3 sts, dec 1, p1. Work 1 row in pattern. Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8] times more. 65[72, 79, 82, 85, 88, 91] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern. Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 59[66, 73, 76, 79, 82, 85] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 18.25[19.5, 21, 22.5, 23.5, 24, 25] inches, ending with a WS row. Armhole measures 4.75[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8] inches. Shape Back Neckline and Shoulders Row 1 [RS]: Work 24[25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29] sts in pattern and place these sts on st holder; BO next 11[16, 23, 22, 25, 24, 27] sts, work in pattern to end. 24[25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29] sts. Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 3 [RS]: BO 5 sts, work in pattern to end. 19[20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to end. 15[16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20] sts. Row 7 [RS]: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 12[13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17] sts. Row 9 [RS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 10[11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15] sts. Row 10 [WS]: BO 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts. Row 11 [RS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 12 [WS]: BO remaining 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts. Place held sts on needle with RS facing and rejoin yarn at armhole edge. Rows 1, 3, 5, 7 [RS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 2 [WS]: BO 5 sts, work in pattern to end. 19[20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts. Row 4 [WS]: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to end. 15[16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20] sts. Row 6 [WS]: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 12[13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17] sts. Row 8 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 10[11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15] sts. Row 9 [RS]: BO 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts. Row 10 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 11 [RS]: BO remaining 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts. LEFT FRONT Using smaller needles, CO 37[43, 46, 52, 55, 61, 64] sts. K 2 rows. Work 6 rows in 1x2 Rib. Switch to larger needles and work as follows: Next Row [RS]: P3, k1, [p8, k1] to last 6[3, 6, 3, 6, 3, 6] sts, p to end. This row sets 1x8 Rib for this piece. *Note: Read ahead! Stitch pattern and shaping directions are worked at the same time.* Work in 1x8 Rib as set until work measures 3[3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5] inches, ending with a WS row. Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, work Row 1 of Left Front Chart. Continue in pattern as established, working Rows 1-8 of Chart once, then Rows 8-16 of Chart 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5] times. Note that edge of charted pattern moves one st to the right every RS row. When all repeats of Rows 8-16 have been worked, 18[22, 22, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts are worked in charted pattern. Work Rows 17-18 of Chart over these sts until piece is complete, working all other sts in 1x8 Rib as set. AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 4.5[4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6] inches, ending with a WS row, shape waist as follows: Decrease Row [RS]: P1, dec 1, work in pattern to end. Work 3 rows in pattern as set. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 33[39, 42, 48, 51, 57, 60] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 9.5[9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11, 11] inches, ending with a WS row. Row 1 [RS]: P1, inc 1, work in pattern to end. Work 3 rows in pattern as set. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 37[43, 46, 52, 55, 61, 64] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 13.5[14, 15, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 17] inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Armholes Next Row [RS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, work in pattern to end. 33[38, 40, 45, 47, 52, 54] sts. Work 1 row in pattern. Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Next Row [RS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. -[-, -, -, 45, 50, 52] sts. Work 1 row in pattern. All Sizes: Decrease Row [RS]: P1, dec 1, work in pattern to end. Work 1 row in pattern. Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8] times more. 30[35, 37, 40, 40, 43, 43] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern. Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 27[32, 34, 37, 37, 40, 40] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 18.25[19.5, 21, 22.5, 23.5, 24, 25] inches, ending with a RS row. Armhole measures 4.75[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8] inches. Shape Neckline and Shoulders Row 1 [WS]: BO 3[7, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11] sts, work in pattern to end. 24[25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29] sts. Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 [RS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 3 [WS]: BO 5 sts, work in pattern to end. 19[20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts. Row 5 [WS]: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to end. 15[16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20] sts. Row 7 [WS]: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 12[13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17] sts. Row 9 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 10[11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15] sts. Row 10 [RS]: BO 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts. Row 11 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 12 [RS]: BO remaining 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts. RIGHT FRONT Using smaller needles, CO 37[43, 46, 52, 55, 61, 64] sts. K 2 rows. Work 6 rows in 1x2 Rib. Switch to larger needles and work as follows: Next Row [RS]: P6[3, 6, 3, 6, 3, 6], k1, [p8, k1] to last 3 sts, p3. This row sets 1x8 Rib for this piece. Note: Read ahead! Stitch pattern and shaping directions are worked at the same time. Work in 1x8 Rib as set until work measures 3[3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5] inches, ending with a WS row. Next Row [RS]: Work Row 1 of Right Front Chart, work in pattern to end. Continue in pattern as established, working Rows 1-8 of Chart once, then Rows 8-16 of Chart 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5] times. Note that edge of charted pattern moves one st to the left every RS row. When all repeats of Rows 8-16 have been worked, 18[22, 22, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts are worked in charted pattern. Work Rows 17-18 of Chart over these sts until piece is complete, working all other sts in 1x8 Rib as set. AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 4.5[4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6] inches, ending with a WS row, shape waist as follows: Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, dec 1, p1. Work 3 rows in pattern as set. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 33[39, 42, 48, 51, 57, 60] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 9.5[9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11, 11] inches, ending with a WS row. Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to last st, inc 1, p1. Work 3 rows in pattern as set. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 37[43, 46, 52, 55, 61, 64] sts . Continue in pattern until work measures 13.5[14, 15, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 17] inches, ending with a RS row. Shape Armholes Next Row [WS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, work in pattern to end. 33[38, 40, 45, 47, 52, 54] sts. Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Work 1 row in pattern. Next Row [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. -[-, -, -, 45, 50, 52] sts. All Sizes: Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, dec 1, p1. Work 1 row in pattern. Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8] times more. 30[35, 37, 40, 40, 43, 43] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern. Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 27[32, 34, 37, 37, 40, 40] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 18.25[19.5, 21, 22.5, 23.5, 24, 25] inches, ending with a WS row. Armhole measures 4.75[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8] inches. Shape Neckline and Shoulders Row 1 [RS]: BO 3[7, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11] sts, work in pattern to end. 24[25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29] sts. Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 3 [RS]: BO 5 sts, work in pattern to end. 19[20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24] sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to end. 15[16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20] sts. Row 7 [RS]: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 12[13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17] sts. Row 9 [RS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 10[11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15] sts. Row 10 [WS]: BO 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts. Row 11 [RS]: Work all sts in pattern. Row 12 [WS]: BO remaining 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts. SLEEVES (Make 2) Using smaller needles, CO 40[43, 49, 52, 58, 61, 67]sts. K 2 rows. Work 6 rows in 1x2 Rib. Switch to larger needles and work as follows: Next Row [RS]: P6[3, 6, 3, 6, 3, 6], k1, [p8, k1] to last 6[3, 6, 3, 6, 3, 6] sts, p to end. This row sets 1x8 Rib for this piece. Work in 1x8 Rib as set until work measures 6.5[6.5, 5.5, 4, 4, 4, 4] inches, ending with a WS row. Increase Row [RS]: P1, inc 1, work in pattern to last st, inc 1, p1. Work 3 rows in pattern. Repeat these 4 rows 4[4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 6] times more, working new sts into pattern. 50[53, 61, 66, 72, 77, 81] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 13[13, 13, 13, 13.5, 13.5, 13.5] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row. Shape Sleeve Cap BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 42[43, 49, 52, 56, 59, 61] sts. Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, 52, 55, 57] sts. All Sizes: Decrease Row [RS]: P1, dec 1, work in pattern to last 3 sts, dec 1, p1. Work 1 row in pattern. Repeat these 2 rows 5[4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 5] times more. 30[33, 35, 38, 38, 41, 46] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern. Repeat these 4 rows 1[4, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7] times more. 26[23, 29, 30, 28, 29, 29] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 1 row in pattern. Repeat these 2 rows 6[4, 7, 7, 6, 6, 5] times more. BO remaining 12]13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 17] sts. BUTTON BAND Using smaller needles and with RS facing, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along front edge of left front. Count sts; when working next row, inc or dec 1 st if necessary to obtain a multipe of 3 sts. Row 1 [WS]: K all sts. Row 2 [RS]: P1, [k1, p2] to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Row 3 [WS]: K1, [p1, k2] to last 2 sts, p1, k1. Rows 4-7: Work as for Rows 2-3. Row 8 [RS]: K all sts. BO all sts knitwise with WS facing. BUTTONHOLE BAND Determine desired locations of 8[8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11] buttons, evenly spaced along front edge of right front, making sure to place one button very close to upper edge, and one close to lower edge. Mark these points using safety pins or split ring markers, 2-3 sts away from front edge. Using smaller needles and with RS facing, pick up and k sts along this edge, ensuring that you have the same number of sts as for left front. Work Rows 1-3 as for button band. Row 4 [RS]: [Work in pattern to 1 st before desired location of buttonhole, BO 3 sts in pattern] until all buttonholes have been worked, continue in pattern to end. Row 5 [WS]: [Work in pattern to next set of bound-off sts, CO 3 sts using backward loop method] until all buttonholes have been completed, continue in pattern to end. Work Rows 6-8 as for button band. BO all sts knitwise with WS facing.


FINISHING
Weave in ends. Steam block pieces. Sew together shoulder seams, then work neckband as follows: Using smaller needles and with RS facing, beginning at upper right front corner, pick up and k 1 st in each BO st and 2 sts for every 3 rows around neckline edge, ending at upper left front corner. Count sts; when working next row, increase or decrease 1 st if necessary to obtain a multipe of 3 sts. Work Rows 1-8 as for button band. Loosely BO all sts knitwise with WS facing. Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams. Sew buttons to button band opposite buttonholes. Weave in any remaining ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Heidi is a non-profit junky who can't seem to fit the proper amount of sleep in between her days of fundraising for children in foster care, being a newlywed, omming it up in yoga class, and crafting her heart out She knits and spins incessantly in her Seattle home while watching old movies and MacGyver episodes. Also, she believes in Sasquatch and Nessie and loves Ingrid Bergman and drinking smoothies. She faithfully blogs about her neuroses here.
Pattern & images © 2008 Heidi Adams. Contact Heidi