Thira halter top - Summer 2008

<click for more!

by Beverly S. Summer is time for vacations and a time to wear fun, sexy things not suitable for work life. Visiting the Greek Islands has always been a dream of mine, but for now, wearing a halter suited to the relaxed Mediterranean and worked in a color called “Aegean Sea” will have to do. Thira, knit with a cotton/elastic yarn in the round, hugs the body snugly, but with vertical, textural ribbing, would be flattering on many shapes. The trapezoidal neckline prevents the “linebacker shoulder” look of some halters and the seed stitch border at the bust flows seamlessly into the straps, which are grafted for the only seam at the back of the neck. Thira is tangy only because of the grafting – done in seed stitch – but this could easily be changed to a three needle bind off or stockinette grafting if you don’t mind a small visible seam at the neck. The seemingly little amount of yarn needed may be hard to believe, but Esprit stretches a bunch! When I first began designing Thira, I purchased six balls, but used only three and a half to make the medium size. Thus, Thira is a very affordable top to knit! Plus, Esprit comes in an almost endless selection of colors. I suggest that you try on the top frequently while knitting, to make sure you have added enough increases so that when the fabric is stretched across the bust, you still have adequate coverage; in other words, so that nothing is peeking through that you don’t want peeking through! Also, as you decrease, trying the top on will ensure that the fit is snug enough that it won’t slip, but is still comfortable. Slip half the stitches to a second circular needle when trying on the top.
model: Beverly S . photos:Carol Luper


SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] To fit up to bust circumference 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 53] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust: 20[24, 29, 32, 35, 39, 43] inches, unstretched Length: 15[15.25, 15.25, 15.75, 16.25, 16.75, 17.25] inches

MATERIALS
Elann.com Collection Esprit [98.3% cotton, 1.7% elastic, 186yd/170m stretched, 100yd/91.4m relaxed per 50g ball] color: #2194 Aegean Sea; 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7] balls Recommended needle size: 1 24 inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle 1 spare double-point or circular needle, US #5/3.75mm or smaller [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] Stitch markers Stitch holder Tapestry needle

GAUGE
24 sts/36 rows = 4 inches in Diagonal Rib Pattern, unstretched

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
The top is designed with a great deal of negative ease. In the pictures, I am wearing a size medium which, unstretched, has a bust circumference of 27 inches. However, my bust is 36 inches. The elasticity of the yarn adds a lot of stretch to the garment. I do not recommend substituting a less elastic yarn. Diagonal Rib Pattern (Worked in the round over a multiple of 6 stitches): Round 1: [K4, p2] to end. Round 2: [P1, k3, p2] to end. Round 3: [K1, p1, k2, p2] to end. Round 4: [K2, p1, k1, p2] to end. Round 5: [K3, p3] to end. Repeat these 5 rounds for Diagonal Rib Pattern. Note that the bust shaping is worked by changing the number of sts in the columns of p sts in this pattern. The first 4 sts of each pattern repeat will always be the same. Seed Stitch (Worked in the round or back and forth over an even number of sts): Round or Row 1 (RS if working in rows): [K1, p1] to end. Round or Row 2 (WS if working in rows): [P1, k1] to end. Repeat these 2 rounds or rows for Seed Stitch.

DIRECTIONS
Using circular needle, CO 114[138, 162, 174, 192, 216, 240] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Work Round 1 of Diagonal Rib Pattern, placing a marker after first 58[70, 82, 88, 100, 112, 124] sts: these first 58[70, 82, 88, 100, 112, 124] sts form front of piece, and remaining 56[68, 80, 86, 92, 104, 116] sts form back. Continue in pattern until work measures 11 inches. Shape Bust: First Increase Round: Work 4 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to 6 sts before marker, pfb, p1, work 4 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work in pattern to last 2 sts, pfb, p1. 118[142, 166, 178, 196, 220, 244] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Sizes XS, S Only: Second Increase Round: Work 11 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to 13 sts before marker, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to end. 120[144, -, -, -, -, -] sts. Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Second Increase Round: Work 11 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to 13 sts before marker, pfb, p1, work 18 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work in pattern to last 9 sts, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to end. -[-, 170, 182, 200, 224, 248] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Size M Only: Third Increase Round: Work 18 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work 22 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work 22 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to end. 173 sts. Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Third Increase Round: Work 18 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to 20 sts before marker, pfb, p1, work 32 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work in pattern to last 16 sts, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to end. -[-, -, 186, 204, 228, 252] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Fourth Increase Round: Work 25 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work -[-, -, 10, 16, 22, 28] sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work 16 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work -[-, -, 10, 16, 22, 28] sts in pattern, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to marker, work 21 sts in pattern, pfb, p1, work in pattern to last 23 sts, pfb, p1, continue in pattern to end. -[-, -, 192, 210, 234, 258] sts. All Sizes: Continue in pattern until work measures 12.5[12.75, 12.5, 12.75, 13.25, 13.75, 14.25] inches. Sizes XS, S Only: First Decrease Round: Work 11 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to 14 sts before marker, p2tog, p1, continue in pattern to end. 118[142, -, -, -, -, -] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Second Decrease Round: Work 4 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, p2tog, p1, work 4 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. 114[138, -, -, -, -, -] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Size M Only: First Decrease Round: Work 18 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work 22 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to 21 sts before marker, p2tog, p1, continue in pattern to end. 170 sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Size L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: First Decrease Round: Work 25 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work -[-, -, 10, 16, 22, 28] sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work 16 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to 28 sts before marker, p2tog, p1, continue in pattern to marker, work 21 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to last 24 sts, p2tog, p1, continue in pattern to end. -[-, -, 186, 204, 228, 252] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Second Decrease Round: Work -[-, 11, 18, 18, 18, 18] sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to -[-, 14, 21, 21, 21, 21] sts before marker, p2tog, p1, work -[-, 18, 32, 32, 32, 32] sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to last -[-, 10, 17, 17, 17, 17] sts, p2tog, p1, continue in pattern to end. -[-, 166, 182, 200, 224, 248] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Third Decrease Round: Work -[-, 4, 11, 11, 11, 11] sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to -[-, 7, 14, 14, 14, 14] sts before marker, p2tog, p1, work -[-, 4, 18, 18, 18, 18] sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to last -[-, 3, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts, p2tog, p1, continue in pattern to end. -[-, 162, 178, 196, 220, 244] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Fourth Decrease Round: Work 4 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, p2tog, p1, work 4 sts in pattern, p2tog, p1, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. -[-, -, 174, 192, 216, 240] sts. Work 1 round in pattern. All Sizes: Next Round: K2tog, [p1, k1] to 2 sts before marker, p2tog, [k2tog, p1] twice, [k1, p1] to last 6 sts, [k2tog, p1] twice. 108[132, 156, 168, 186, 210, 234] sts. Work in Seed Stitch, beginning with Round 2 of pattern, for 2 inches, ending with Round 1 of pattern. Next Round: Work 17[19, 21, 23, 27, 29, 31] sts in pattern, BO next 22[30, 38, 40, 44, 52, 60] sts, work 9[9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13] sts in pattern (10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] sts on right needle) and slip these 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] sts to st holder; BO next 7[9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17] sts and all sts of back; BO first 7[9, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17] sts of next round. 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] sts remain. The sts on the needle and the held sts will become the strap, which will be worked in two halves (left and right halves) and grafted together at the back neck. To determine the correct length for the strap, try on the top. Using a flexible measuring tape, measure from the outer edge of one set of sts, around the back of your neck to the outer edge of the other set of sts. Because the strap will be very stretchy, subtract 7 inches from this measurement; this will ensure that the strap will fit snugly enough to hold the top up. Divide the resulting number by two to determine the length of each side of the strap. For example, for the top shown, the around-the-neck measurement was 23 inches. The halter strap is 16 inches long; each side of the strap is 8 inches long. Left Side of Strap: Beginning and ending with Row 2 of pattern, work in seed stitch until strap is desired length. Do not bind off. Cut yarn, leaving a tail approx. 8 inches long, which will be used to graft the strap. Place sts on hold on spare needle. Right Side of Strap: Place held sts on needle and rejoin yarn with RS facing. Beginning and ending with Row 1 of pattern, work in seed stitch until strap is same length as left strap. Do not bind off; cut yarn, leaving a tail to be woven in. Lay the strap ends flat with right sides up, as shown in photo. Position work so that left half of strap is closest to you, with yarn tail at right of work; this set of sts will be designated the front needle (sts of right strap will be referred to as the back needle). Thread tail on tapestry needle and graft as follows: Set-up Step: Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through. Insert the needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through. Step 1: Insert the needle into the first stitch on the front needle as is to purl and pull the yarn through. Then drop this stitch off the needle. Insert the needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through. Step 2: Insert the needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through. Then drop this stitch off the needle. Insert the needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through. Step 3: Insert the needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through. Then drop this stitch off the needle. Insert the needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through. Step 4: Insert the needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through. Then drop this stitch off the needle. Insert the yarn into the next stitch on the back needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through. Repeat Steps 1-4 until all stitches have been grafted.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Beverly lives in Oklahoma City with her husband, stepdaughter, and cat. Even though she teaches middle school math, Beverly doesn’t go crazy because she knits and scrapbooks for relaxation. You can find her (sporadically) updated blog at www.yarnintercept.com.
Pattern & images © 2008 Beverly S. Contact Beverly