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GotYarn

Everybody loves a challenge, right?  Fair-Isle knitting has always been one of my favorite techniques—so why not use it to make some splendid socks? Noro’s new sock yarn is a no-brainer for such an adventure, but any self-striping yarn will do.  Take this as an opportunity to try some stranded knitting! A simple motif is all this yarn needs to dance around your feet. Use two strands of the same color, or dare to mix two different colors to design the perfect palette for your own Ziggies. It is very difficult to get a matching pair of socks with this pattern—but that’s a good thing! Each one is a unique creation.

model: Meg Meredith photos: Eileen Grant

SIZE

One.
See Pattern Notes below re. sizing

 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot circumference: 8.5 inches; will comfortably fit up to 9 inches
Leg length from upper edge to top of heel: 6.5 inches
Cuff circumference: 9 inches after blocking; will comfortably fit up to 9.5 inches
See Pattern Notes re. customizing size.

 
MATERIALS

Noro Kureyon Sock [70% Wool, 30% Nylon; 462yd/420m per 100 g skein]; color: S188; 1-2 skein(s)
Note: If making socks for a foot longer than a woman's size 10, or if increasing circumference of socks, purchase a second skein.

Recommended needle size:
2 US 1.5/2.5mm circular needles, 24 inches or longer
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

32 stitches/48 rows = 4 inches in chart pattern, after blocking

 
PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

Though this pattern is written for two circular needles, the socks shown were knit using the Magic Loop technique. If you prefer to use this technique, one 40-inch circular needle is needed, instead of two shorter circular needles. Instructional videos for both techniques may be found here.

Before beginning, wind the skein into two separate balls and work with one strand from each ball. You can let the colors combine as they come from the balls, or you can manipulate them by breaking and reattaching the strands to obtain combinations that are more pleasing to you. If you find that both balls are approaching the same color, break one strand, remove the next yard or two of yarn, and reattach.

Stranded colorwork is less elastic than other types of knitting, so the fit of these socks is less forgiving than most. If you wish to change the circumference of these socks, you can do so by adding or subtracting 6 stitches from the total number of stitches in the sock. Every 6 stitches will change the circumference by 0.75 inch.

To change the number of stitches, work more or fewer Increase Rounds when working the toe. You may find that you need to work a round in which you increase only 2 sts instead of 4; do this by increasing at the beginning of each needle, but not the end.
When you work the heel, you'll be working it over half the total number of stitches. For every 6 stitches you have added to the total number of stitches in the sock, add 3 to every number of stitches in the heel section.
For example, if 6 sts have been added, the first two rows of the Heel section become:
Row 1 [RS]: K34, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P32, W&T.

Wrap & Turn [W&T]
To wrap and turn on a RS row, knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.
To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.

1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Repeat this round for 1x1 Rib.

DIRECTIONS

Toe
Using Judy's Magic Cast On method, CO 9 stitches onto each of 2 circular needles: 18 sts. K 2 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1, k to last st on first needle (Needle 1), m1, k1; k1, m1, k to last st on second needle (Needle 2), m1, k1. 4 sts increased.

Repeat Increase Round 3 times more. 34 sts.

Note: if you wish to change the circumference of your sock, this is the point where you will need to make the adjustments. See Pattern Notes for details.

K 1 round.
Work Increase Round.
Repeat these 2 rounds 7 times more. 66 sts.

K 1 round.

Foot
The strand of yarn that has been used to knit the toe is now designated Strand A. Join the second ball of yarn; this strand will be designated Strand B.

Work chart pattern until work measures  2 inches less than desired length to back of heel. Make note of last row of chart worked.

Heel
Decide which strand you wish to use for the heel (which color will be most pleasing). Heel will be worked back and forth over the 33 sts on Needle 1 only, using the strand of your choice. Do not break the other strand; set it aside until it is time to work the instep.

Row 1 [RS]: K31, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P29, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K28, W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: P27, W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: K26, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P25, W&T.
Row 7 [RS]: K24, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P23, W&T.
Row 9 [RS]: K22, W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: P21, W&T.
Row 11 [RS]: K20, W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P19, W&T.
Row 13 [RS]: K18, W&T.
Row 14 [WS]: P17, W&T.
Row 15 [RS]: K16, W&T.
Row 16 [WS]: P15, W&T.
Row 17 [RS]: K14, W&T.
Row 18 [WS]: P13, W&T.

When working the following rows, do not work wraps together with wrapped sts. Instead, when instructed to pick up a wrap, use the left needle to pick up the wrap, then leave it on the left needle as if it is a st. On a subsequent row, it will be worked together with an adjacent st.

Row 19 [RS]: K14, pick up wrap. Turn work.

Row 20 [WS]: Sl 1, p14, pick up wrap. Turn work.

Row 21 [RS]: Sl 1, k14, ssk (wrap worked together with next st), pick up wrap. Turn work.

Row 22 [WS]: Sl 1, p15, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.

Row 23 [RS]: Sl 1, k16, ssk, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 24 [WS]: Sl 1, p17, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 25 [RS]: Sl 1, k18, ssk, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 26 [WS]: Sl 1, p19, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 27 [RS]: Sl 1, k20, ssk, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 28 [WS]: Sl 1, p21, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 29 [RS]: Sl 1, k22, ssk, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 30 [WS]: Sl 1, p23, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 31 [RS]: Sl 1, k24, ssk, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 30 [WS]: Sl 1, p25, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 31 [RS]: Sl 1, k26, ssk, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 32 [WS]: Sl 1, p27, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 33 [RS]: Sl 1, k28, ssk, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 34 [WS]: Sl 1, p29, p2tog, pick up wrap. Turn work.
Row 35 [RS]: Sl 1, k30, ssk.
Row 36 [WS]: Sl 1, p31, p2tog.

Leg
Resume working in the round following chart pattern, beginning with next row of chart.

Continue in pattern until work measures approx. 1.5 inches less than desired length.

Decide which strand you would like to use for the cuff. If you wish to work the cuff with Strand A, end with Round 6 of chart; if you wish to work it with Strand B, end with Round 3 of chart.

Break the strand you will not be using for the cuff.

Cuff
Work 19 rounds in 1x1 Rib. Loosely BO all sts in patt.

FINISHING

 

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Meg Meredith happily resides in the colonial town of Williamsburg with her husband and two dogs.  Inspired by her crafty mom, Meg’s passion for yarn began as a second grader. Rumor has it she once played hooky to stay home and crochet.