Marjorie - Spring 2008

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by Emily Johnson Whenever I look at photographs of my grandmother from the 1950s, I am struck by the aura of poise and classic feminine grace that pervades them. At mid-century, she was a very busy woman: a young mother raising four small children (two of whom were rambunctious twin boys) on not many resources, I know that she often felt harried and overwhelmed. Yet in the records that survive she always manages to look beautiful, whether photographed in an evening dress at a cocktail party, or playing with my mother on the sandy beach. I set out to make a sweater that was an homage to the period in general, and to my grandmother in particular. “Marjorie” is the result. The wide neckline was one of my grandmother’s favorite styles, and the dusty pink alpaca is the epitome of mid-century femininity. The fitted shape emphasizes the wearer’s waist and bustline, creating a classic 1950’s silhouette, and the delicate lattice cabling flows organically into, and sets off, the smooth stockinette surrounding it. Wear it with a small amount of ease (as shown) for a typical period fit, or make a smaller size for more of a “pin-up” look. Because she is a busty lady, my grandmother has always had a hard time finding clothes that fit. With her travails in mind, I intentionally designed this pattern so that it is easy to mix and match bust and waist measurements. If your waist and bust fall into different size categories, simply increase or decrease the number of k2tog’s when transitioning out of the cabling and into the stockinette. It is relatively easy to jump down or up a bust size in this way – hopefully a relief for those whose beauty, like my grandmother’s, defines its own path.
model: Emily Johnson photos: David Galli


SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30.5[34.5, 38.5, 42.5, 46.5, 50.5, 54.5, 58.5, 62.5] inches Length: 20.25[21.25, 22, 22.75, 23.5, 24.25, 25, 25.75, 26.25] inches Waist: 23.5[26.5, 29.5, 32.5, 35.5, 39.5, 42.5, 45.5, 49.5] inches

MATERIALS
Filatura di Crosa Alpaca Peru [100% alpaca; 197yd/180m per 50g skein]; color: Dusty Rose; 6[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9] skeins Note: This yarn has been discontinued. Garnstudio’s Drops Alpaca in shade# 3720 Pink is an excellent substite, with identical yardage. Recommended needle size: 1 set US #3/3.25mm straight needles (used for CO only) 1 16-inch US #2/2.75mm circular needle [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] Stitch holder Tapestry needle

GAUGE
28 sts/34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using smaller needles

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
C3F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; k1, k2 from cable needle. C3B: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to back of work; k2, k1 from cable needle. C3FP: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; p1, k2 from cable needle. C3BP: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to back of work; k2, p1 from cable needle. C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k2, k2 from cable needle. C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; k2, k2 from cable needle. C4BP: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k2, p2 from cable needle. C4FP: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; p2, k2 from cable needle. Cables may also be worked without the use of a cable needle. Directions for working cables in this way can be found here. Directions for the Long-Tail Cast On can be found here. Directions for steam-blocking can be found here.


DIRECTIONS
BACK Using larger needles and Long-Tail method, CO 152[170, 188, 206, 224, 248, 266, 284, 308] sts. Row 1 [WS]: K2, [p4, k2] to end. Row 2 [RS]: P2, [C4F, p2] to end. Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 2 inches, ending with Row 1. Work Rows 1-14 of Chart 1, 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] times. Shape Waist: Work Rows 1-22 of Chart 2, decreasing as shown. 142[160, 178, 196, 214, 238, 256, 274, 298] sts. Begin working Chart 3, repeating Rows 1-14 until work measures approx. 6.5[6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] inches, ending with Row 14. Work Rows 15-28 of Chart 3, decreasing as shown. 117[132, 147, 162, 177, 197, 212, 227, 247] sts. Size XS Only: Next Row [RS]: [K8, k2tog] 4 times, k13, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k13, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, k7. 107 sts. Size S Only: Next Row [RS]: [K8, k2tog] 3 times, k18, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k18, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] twice, k7. 122 sts. Size M Only: Next Row [RS]: [K8, k2tog] 4 times, k18, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, k18, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, k7. 135 sts. Size L Only: Next Row [RS]: [K8, k2tog] 5 times, [k13, k2tog, k8, k2tog] 3 times, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, k7. 148 sts. Size 1X Only: Next Row [RS]: [K8, k2tog] 5 times, k23, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, k23, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 4 times, k7. 163 sts. Size 2X Only: Next Row [RS]: K8, k2tog, [k3, k2tog] twice, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, k18, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] twice, k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] twice, k18, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, [k3, k2tog] twice, k7. 177 sts. Size 3X Only: Next Row [RS]: K8, k2tog, k3, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 4 times, k13, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, [k3, k2tog] 3 times, [k8, k2tog] 3 times, k13, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] 4 times, k3, k2tog, k7. 190 sts. Size 4X Only: Next Row [RS]: [K8, k2tog] 22 times, k7. 205 sts. Size 5X Only: Next Row [RS]: K8, k2tog, k3, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] twice, k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] six times, k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3, k2tog, [k8, k2tog] six times, [k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog] twice, k8, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k7. 219 sts. All Sizes: Work in stockinette st until work measures 12.25[12.75, 13, 13.25, 13.5, 13.75, 14, 14.25, 14.25] inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Armholes: BO 6[7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 95[108, 121, 130, 145, 159, 168, 183, 197] sts. Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only: BO -[-, -, -, -, 2, 4, 6, 7] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, -, 155, 160, 171, 183] sts. All Sizes: Decrease Row 1 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. Decrease Row 2 [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 4, 5] times more. 93[104, 113, 122, 133, 139, 140, 151, 159] sts. Work Decrease Row 1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 3, 5, 5] times more. 87[96, 105, 114, 121, 127, 132, 139, 147] sts. Work Decrease Row 1. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 4 rows 0[2, 1, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1] times more. 85[90, 101, 108, 115, 121, 128, 135, 143] sts. Continue in stockinette st until work measures 19.75[20.75, 21.5, 22.25, 23, 23.75, 24.5, 25.25, 25.75] inches (armhole measures 7.5[8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5] inches), ending with a WS row. Shape Right Shoulder: Row 1 [RS]: K24[25, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40]; place remaining 61[65, 73, 78, 83, 87, 92, 97, 103] sts on st holder. Row 2 [WS]: BO 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, p to end. 20[21, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 33, 35] sts. Row 3 [RS]: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, k to end. 16[17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 27, 29] sts. Row 4 [WS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5] sts, p to end. 14[15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 23, 24] sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts, k to end. 10[11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 18, 19] sts Rows 6-7: Work as for Rows 4-5. 4[5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts. Sizes XS, S, M, L Only: Row 8 [WS]: P2tog , p to end. Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only: Row 8 [WS]: BO -[-, -, -, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] sts, p to end. All Sizes: BO remaining 3[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts. Left Shoulder: Place held sts on needle and rejoin yarn with RS facing. Row 1 [RS]: BO 37[40, 45, 48, 51, 53, 56, 59, 63] sts, k to end. 24[25, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40] sts. Row 2 [WS]: P all sts. Row 3 [RS]: BO 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, k to end. 20[21, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 33, 35] sts. Row 4 [WS]: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, p to end. 16[17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 27, 29] sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5] sts, k to end. 14[15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 23, 24] sts. Row 6 [WS]: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts, p to end. 10[11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 18, 19] sts Rows 7-8: Work as for Rows 5-6. 4[5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts. Sizes XS, S, M, L Only: Row 9 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only: Row 9 [RS]: BO -[-, -, -, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] sts, k to end. All Sizes: BO remaining 3[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts. FRONT Work as for back until work measures 16.5[17.25, 17.75, 18.25, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.75, 21] inches (armhole measures 4.25[4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.5, 5.75, 6, 6.5, 6.75] inches), ending with a WS row. Left Neckline: Row 1 [RS]: K33[35, 39, 42, 45, 47, 50, 53, 56]; place remaining 52[55, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 87] sts on st holder. Row 2 [WS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 9] sts, p to end. 29[31, 35, 37, 40, 40, 43, 46, 47] sts. Row 3 [RS]: K all sts. Row 4 [WS]: BO 2 sts, p to end. 27[29, 33, 35, 38, 38, 41, 44, 45] sts. Repeat Rows 3-4 3[3, 4, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9] times more. 21[23, 25, 23, 26, 24, 27, 28, 27] sts. K 1 row. Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to end. Repeat these 2 rows 3[4, 3, 1, 4, 3, 5, 4, 4] times more. 17[18, 21, 21, 21, 20, 21, 23, 22] sts. Sizes M, L Only: Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to end. 20 sts. All Sizes: Work 0[2, 0, 2, 0, 2, 0, 0, 0] rows in stockinette st. Shape shoulder as follows: Sizes XS, S Only: Row 1 [RS]: BO 4 sts, k to end. Row 2 [WS]: P2tog, p to end. Row 3 [RS]: BO 4 sts, k to end. Row 4 [WS]: P all sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 4 sts, k to end. Row 6 [WS]: P2tog, p to end. BO remaining 3[4, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts. Sizes M, 3X, 5X Only: Row 1 [RS]: BO -[-, 5, -, -, -, 5, -, 6] sts, k to end. Row 2 [WS]: P all sts. Row 3 [RS]: BO 5 sts, k to end. Row 4 [WS]: P2tog, p to end. Row 5 [RS]: BO 5 sts, k to end. Row 6 [WS]: P all sts. BO remaining -[-, 4, -, -, -, 5, -, 5] sts. Sizes L, 2X Only: Row 1 [RS]: BO 5 sts, k to end. Row 2 [WS]: P2tog, p to end. Row 3 [RS]: BO 5 sts, k to end. Row 4 [WS]: P all sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 5 sts, k to end. Row 6 [WS]: P all sts. BO remaining 4 sts. Sizes 1X, 4X Only: Row 1 [RS]: BO -[-, -, -, 5, -, -, 6] sts, k to end. Row 2 [WS]: P2tog, p to end. Row 3 [RS]: BO 5 sts, k to end. Row 4 [WS]: P2tog, p to end. Row 5 [RS]: BO 5 sts, k to end. Row 6 [WS]: P all sts. BO remaining -[-, -, -, 4, -, -, 5] sts. All Sizes: Place held sts on needle and rejoin yarn with RS facing. Row 1 [RS]: BO 19[20, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 31] sts, k to end. 33[35, 39, 42, 45, 47, 50, 53, 56] sts. Row 2 [WS]: P all sts. Row 3 [RS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 9] sts, k to end. 29[31, 35, 37, 40, 40, 43, 46, 47] sts Row 4 [WS]: P all sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 2 sts, k to end. 27[29, 33, 35, 38, 38, 41, 44, 45] sts. Repeat Rows 3-4 3[3, 4, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9] times more. 21[23, 25, 23, 26, 24, 27, 28, 27] sts. P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: Ssk, k to end. Repeat these 2 rows 3[4, 3, 1, 4, 3, 5, 4, 4] times more. 17[18, 21, 21, 21, 20, 21, 23, 22] sts. Sizes M, L Only: Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Next Row [RS]: Ssk, k to end. 20 sts. All Sizes: Work 0[2, 0, 2, 0, 2, 0, 0, 0] rows in stockinette st. Shape shoulder as follows: Sizes XS, S Only: Row 1 [WS]: BO 4 sts, p to end. Row 2 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. Row 3 [WS]: BO 4 sts, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: K all sts. Row 5 [WS]: BO 4 sts, p to end. Row 6 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. BO remaining 3[4, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts. Sizes M, 3X, 5X Only: Row 1 [WS]: BO -[-, 5, -, -, -, 5, -, 6] sts, p to end. Row 2 [RS]: K all sts. Row 3 [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. Row 5 [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end. Row 6 [RS]: K all sts. BO remaining -[-, 4, -, -, -, 5, -, 5] sts. Sizes L, 2X Only: Row 1 [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end. Row 2 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. Row 3 [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: K all sts. Row 5 [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end. Row 6 [RS]: K all sts. BO remaining 4 sts. Sizes 1X, 4X Only: Row 1 [WS]: BO -[-, -, -, 5, -, -, 6] sts, p to end. Row 2 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. Row 3 [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. Row 5 [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end. Row 6 [RS]: K all sts. BO remaining -[-, -, -, 4, -, -, 5] sts. SLEEVES (Make 2) Using larger needles and Long-Tail method, CO 92[104, 110, 122, 128, 140, 146, 158, 164] sts. Set-up Row [WS]: K2, [p4, k2] to end. Work Rows 1-28 of Chart 4, decreasing as shown in Row 27. 76[86, 91, 101, 106, 116, 121, 131, 136] Work 18 rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row. Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. Work 19 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 2 rows 2[1, 2, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3] times more. 82[90, 97, 105, 110, 124, 129, 139, 144] sts. Continue in stockinette st until work measures 10.5[11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14, 14] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row. Shape Sleeve Cap: BO 6[7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 70[76, 83, 87, 92, 106, 107, 117, 122] sts. Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only: BO -[-, -, -, -, 2, 4, 6, 7] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, -, 102[99, 105, 108] sts. All Sizes: Decrease Row 1 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. Decrease Row 2 [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 4, 5] times more, then work Decrease Row 1 once more. 64[70, 73, 77, 78, 84, 77, 83, 82] sts. P 1 row. Work Decrease Row 1. Repeat these 2 rows 6[3, 6, 3, 9, 5, 3, 5, 5] times more. 50[62, 59, 69, 58, 72, 69, 71, 70] sts. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Work Decrease Row 1. Repeat these 4 rows 4[1, 3, 5, 4, 5, 2, 3, 1] times more. 40[58, 51, 57, 48, 60, 63, 63, 68] sts. Sizes S, 3X, 4X, 5X Only: Work 7 rows in stockinette st. Work Decrease Row 1. Repeat these 8 rows -[0, -, -, -, -, 0, 0, 2] times more. -[56, -, -, -, -, 61, 61, 62] sts. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Work Decrease Row 1. Repeat these 4 rows -[0, -, -, -, -, 2, 3, 2] times more. -[55, -, -, -, -, 55, 53, 56] sts. All Sizes: P 1 row. Work Decrease Row 1. Repeat these 2 rows 3[5, 8, 6, 5, 5, 7, 1, 2] times more. 32[42, 33, 63, 36, 48, 39, 49, 50] sts. Work Decrease Row 2. Work Decrease Row 1. Repeat these 2 rows 1[3, 1, 3, 1, 4, 1, 2, 1] times more. 26[26, 25, 27, 28, 31, 37, 42] sts. Sizes M, L, 3X, 4X, Only: Work Decrease Row 2 once more. 26[-, 23, 25, -, -, 29, 35, -] sts. Sizes XS, S, 4X, 5X Only: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 4[2, -, -, -, -, -, 2, 2] rows. 18[22, -, -, -, -, -, 31, 38] sts. All Sizes: BO remaining 18[22, 23, 25, 28, 28, 29, 31, 38] sts.

FINISHING
Steam block pieces following directions in linked article (see Pattern Notes), using a wet cloth and hot iron. Block stockinette st portions firmly, and cabled portions lightly. Sew shoulder seams and side seams. Sew sleeve seams. Turn garment inside out, pin sleeve into armhole and sew in place. Steam block all seams flat. Neckband: Using circular needle, with RS facing and beginning at left shoulder seam, pick up and k 1 st in each row and 1 st in each BO st around neckline edge; place marker and join to begin working in the round. Count sts. If necessary, evenly increase or decrease up to 3 sts in the first round to obtain a multiple of 6 sts. Round 1: [K4, p2] to end. Round 2: [C4F, p2] to end. Repeat these 2 rounds once. BO all sts in pattern. Weave in any remaining ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Emily lives in Portland, Oregon, where she is working on a long-term series of design projects based on her family history. You can check out her evolving collection of patterns, essays and photographs, including more on the woman who inspired the Marjorie sweater, at familytrunkproject.com Ed note: read more about Emily's project in this interview [thanks to Ysolda Teague, another beloved Knitty designer]
Pattern & images © 2008 Emily Johnson. Contact Emily