Tempest cardigan - Spring 2008

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by Weaverknits I’ve always enjoyed pairing garments and accessories in different colors from the same family in my outfits. When I saw the variations on color available in Handmaiden Blue Faced Leicester 2/8, a yarn that is soft, durable, and relatively inexpensive, I envisioned using two different, yet overlapping, colorways in a striped sweater. The structure of this cardigan is slim, with set-in sleeves to reduce the bulk of fabric at the armholes and keep the garment light and fitted for warmer-weather wear. Waist shaping is accentuated by the thinner striping around the waist. Tempest is meant to fit with very little ease, or even a bit of negative ease, since the lace-weight yarn, knit on size 6 needles, has a good deal of stretch. If you prefer a looser fit, knit a size or two up from your actual bust size. Stripes, cinched-waist shape, small buttons, meticulous details, and multifaceted color: so many of my favorite things in a simple knit for all sizes!
model: Ann Weaver photos: Chris Bergh


SIZE
A[B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M] (shown in size B)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 31[32, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55] inches Length: 22.5[22.5, 22.5, 23.5, 23.5, 23.5, 25, 25, 25, 25, 26.5, 26.5, 26.5] inches

MATERIALS
Fleece Artist Blue Faced Leicester 2/8[100% Blue Faced Leicester Wool; 1094yd/1000m per 250g skein]; 1 skein each color [MC] Moss [CC] Sea Storm If substituting another yarn, approximate requirements are as follows: [MC] 360[400, 510, 570, 610, 670, 720, 770, 820, 860, 890, 930, 960]yd/329[366, 467, 522, 578, 613, 659, 704, 750, 787, 814, 851, 878]m [CC] 300[320, 420, 460, 500, 550, 590, 630, 670, 700, 730, 760, 790]yd/275[293, 384, 421, 458, 503, 540, 576, 613, 640, 668, 695, 723]m Recommended needle size: 1 set US #6/4.0 needles (straight or circular) 1 US #3/3.25 circular needle, 32 inches or longer 1 US #4/3.5 circular needle, 24 inches or longer [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] Yarn needle Waste yarn 14 small glass buttons [Buttons shown are 0.5 inch in diameter; buy buttons after cardigan is complete to ensure correct size.]

GAUGE
20 sts/30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using larger needles, after blocking Note: Be sure to block swatch before measuring gauge; this fabric will change quite a bit with blocking.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
The front of this cardigan is slightly larger than the back to provide more ease in the bust. When working stripe patterns, color not in use may be carried loosely along side of work to minimize number of ends to be woven in. Directions for a sewn bind off may be found here. m1p: Make 1 purl stitch: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch. (Stitch will be twisted.) 1 stitch increased. Slip the first stitch of each row purlwise. This will yield a smoother edge for seaming. Large Stripe Pattern: Work 12[12, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15] rows in stockinette st using MC. Work 12[12, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15] rows in stockinette st using CC. Repeat these 24[24, 24, 26, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28, 28, 30, 30, 30] rows for Large Stripe Pattern. Small Stripe Pattern: Work 4 rows in stockinette st using CC. Work 4 rows in stockinette st using MC. Repeat these 8 rows for Small Stripe Pattern.

DIRECTIONS
BACK Using MC, CO 76[82, 86, 92, 96, 102, 106, 112, 116, 122, 126, 132, 136] sts. Note: Slip first st of each row purlwise throughout pattern. Beginning with a RS row and MC, work 3 stripes in Large Stripe Pattern; for sizes D, E, F, K, L, M only, work -[-, -, 12, 12, 12, -, -, -, -, 14, 14, 14] rows in first stripe instead of -[-, -, 13, 13, 13, -, -, -, -, 15, 15, 15]. For all sizes, third stripe will end with a WS row. Shape Waist: Beginning with a RS row and CC, work in Small Stripe Pattern and shape waist as follows. Note that shaping (inc or dec) is worked in first row of each stripe. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k2, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times more. 66[72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 102, 106, 112, 116, 122, 126] sts. 5 small stripes have been worked. Work 12 rows (3 small stripes) without shaping. 8 small stripes have been worked. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k2, m1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k3. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times more. 76[82, 86, 92, 96, 102, 106, 112, 116, 122, 126, 132, 136] sts. 13 small stripes have been worked, ending with a CC stripe. Beginning with a MC stripe, work 2 stripes in Large Stripe Pattern, ending with a WS row. Continuing in Large Stripe Pattern, shape armholes as follows: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] stitches at beginning of next 2 rows. BO 3 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows. 62[68, 70, 76, 80, 86, 90, 96, 100, 104, 108, 114, 116] sts. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k2, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 0[3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 8, 9, 9] times more. 60[60, 62, 68, 70, 74, 78, 84, 86, 90, 90, 94, 96] sts. Continue in pattern until 4 large stripes have been completed from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a CC stripe (6 large stripes worked from end of waist shaping). Break CC. Using MC, work 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows in stockinette st. Continuing with MC, shape shoulders as follows: BO 8[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. BO 6[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. BO 6[6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. BO remaining 20[20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 38, 40, 42] sts. LEFT FRONT Using MC, CO 40[44, 46, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70] sts. Beginning with a RS row and MC, work 3 stripes in Large Stripe Pattern; for sizes D, E, F, K, L, M only, work -[-, -, 12, 12, 12, -, -, -, -, 14, 14, 14] rows in first stripe instead of -[-, -, 13, 13, 13, -, -, -, -, 15, 15, 15]. For all sizes, third stripe will end with a WS row. Shape Waist: Beginning with a RS row and CC, work in Small Stripe Pattern and shape waist as follows. Next Row[RS]: Sl 1, k2, k2tog, k to end. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times more. 35[39, 41, 43, 45, 49, 51, 53, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65] sts. 5 small stripes have been worked. Work 12 rows (3 small stripes) without shaping. 8 small stripes have been worked. Next Row[RS]: Sl 1, k2, m1, k to end. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times more. 40[44, 46, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70] sts. 13 small stripes have been worked, ending with a CC stripe. Beginning with a MC stripe, work 2 stripes in Large Stripe Pattern, ending with a WS row. Continuing in Large Stripe Pattern, shape armholes as follows: Next Row [RS]: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts, k to end. P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: BO 3 sts, k to end. 33[37, 38, 40, 42, 46, 48, 50, 54, 55, 57, 59, 60] sts. P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k2, k2tog, k to end. Repeat these 2 rows 0[3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 8, 9, 9] times more. 32[33, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42, 44, 47, 48, 48, 49, 50] sts. Continue in pattern until 2 large stripes have been completed from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a CC stripe (4 large stripes worked from end of waist shaping). Work 1 row using MC (first row of next stripe). Continuing in Large Stripe Pattern, shape neckline as follows: Next Row [WS]: BO 3 sts, p to end. K 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5] times more. 23[24, 25, 27, 25, 28, 30, 29, 32, 33, 33, 34, 32] sts. Next Row [WS]: Sl1, p2, p2tog, p to end of row. K 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 4, 4, 2, 4, 5, 3, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4] times more. 20[20, 20, 22, 22, 23, 24, 25, 25, 26, 26, 27, 27] sts. Continue in pattern until 4 large stripes have been completed since beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a CC stripe (6 large stripes worked since end of waist shaping). Break CC. Using MC, work 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows in stockinette st. Continuing with MC, shape shoulders as follows: Row 1 [RS]: BO 8[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts, k to end. Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end. Row 3 [RS]: BO 6[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts, k to end. Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end. BO remaining 6[6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9] sts. RIGHT FRONT Using MC, CO 40[44, 46, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70] sts. Beginning with a RS row and MC, work 3 stripes in Large Stripe Pattern; for sizes D, E, F, K, L, M only, work -[-, -, 12, 12, 12, -, -, -, -, 14, 14, 14] rows in first stripe instead of -[-, -, 13, 13, 13, -, -, -, -, 15, 15, 15]. For all sizes, third stripe will end with a WS row. Shape Waist: Beginning with a RS row and CC, work in Small Stripe Pattern and shape waist as follows. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times more. 35[39, 41, 43, 45, 49, 51, 53, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65] sts. 5 small stripes have been worked. Work 12 rows (3 small stripes) without shaping. 8 small stripes have been worked. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k3. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times more. 40[44, 46, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70] sts. 13 small stripes have been worked, ending with a CC stripe. Beginning with a MC stripe, work 2 stripes in Large Stripe Pattern, ending with a WS row. Continuing in Large Stripe Pattern, shape armholes as follows: K 1 row. Next Row [WS]: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts, p to end. K 1 row. Next Row [WS]: BO 3 sts, p to end. 33[37, 38, 40, 42, 46, 48, 50, 54, 55, 57, 59, 60] sts. Next Row[RS]: Sl 1, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 0[3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 8, 9, 9] times more. 32[33, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42, 44, 47, 48, 48, 49, 50] sts. Continue in pattern until 2 large stripes have been completed from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a CC stripe (4 large stripes worked from end of waist shaping). Continuing in Large Stripe Pattern, shape neckline as follows: Next Row [RS]: BO 3 sts, k to end. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5] times more. 23[24, 25, 27, 25, 28, 30, 29, 32, 33, 33, 34, 32] sts. Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k2, ssk, k to end of row. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 4, 4, 2, 4, 5, 3, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4] times more. 20[20, 20, 22, 22, 23, 24, 25, 25, 26, 26, 27, 27] sts. Continue in pattern until 4 large stripes have been completed from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a CC stripe (6 large stripes worked from end of waist shaping). Break CC. Using MC, work 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] rows in stockinette st. Continuing with MC, shape shoulders as follows: Row 1 [WS]: BO 8[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts, p to end. Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k to end. Row 3 [WS]: BO 6[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts, p to end. Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1, k to end. BO remaining 6[6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9] sts. SLEEVES (Make 2) Note: Sleeves are worked in Large Stripe Pattern throughout. Using CC, CO 46[46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68] sts. Beginning with a RS row and CC, work 4 stripes in Large Stripe Pattern; for sizes D, E, F, K, L, M only, work -[-, -, 12, 12, 12, -, -, -, -, 14, 14, 14] rows in first stripe instead of -[-, -, 13, 13, 13, -, -, -, -, 15, 15, 15]. Note: When shaping sleeves, increases for some sizes will be worked on both RS and WS rows. Work increase rows as follows: RS Increase Row: Sl 1, k2, m1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k3. WS Increase Row: Sl 1, p2, m1, p to last 3 sts, m1p, p3. Beginning on first row of next (CC) stripe, shape sleeve as follows. Note that shaping (inc) is worked in first row of each stripe. Work increase row. Work 11[11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14] rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 12[12, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15] rows 4 times more. 56[56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78] sts. 9 stripes have been worked; last row of ninth stripe is a WS row. Beginning on first row of next (MC) stripe, shape sleeve as follows: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 42[42, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 54, 56, 58, 58] sts. Note: When shaping sleeve caps, decreases will be worked on both RS and WS rows Work decrease rows as follows: RS Decrease Row: Sl 1, k2, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3. WS Decrease Row: Sl 1, p2, p2tog tbl, p to last 5 sts, p2tog, p3. Sizes A, B, C, F, G Only: Work 1[1, 1, -, -, 2, 1, -, -, -, -, -, -] decrease rows. 40[40, 40, -, -, 44, 48, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts. All Sizes: Work 1[1, 1, 0, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1, 1] rows without shaping. Work decrease row. Work 2 rows without shaping. Repeat these 3 rows 13[13, 13, 15, 15, 14, 16, 15, 15, 15, 17, 16, 16] times more. 12[12, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 20, 22, 22, 20, 24, 24] sts. Sizes H, I, J, K, L, M Only: Work -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 3, 4, ,4, 2, 4, 4] decrease rows. -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16] sts. All Sizes: Thirteenth stripe (seventh CC stripe) is complete. Using CC, BO remaining sts.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block pieces to measurements shown in schematic. Sew shoulder seams. Carefully matching stripes, sew sleeves into armholes, sew sleeve seams and side seams. Front Bands and Neck Edging: Using US #3/3.25 mm circular needle and MC, beginning at lower corner of right front edge, pick up and k 1 st for every 2 rows (1 st in each slipped st) along right front edge, 2 sts in corner st beginning of neckline shaping, 1 st in each bound-off st and 1 st for every 2 rows around neckline edge, 2 sts in corner at top of left front edge, and 1 st in for every 2 rows along left front edge. K 1 row. Band is worked back and forth in garter st. Note: Buttonholes will be worked over the next 2 rows. In the first buttonhole row, you will be instructed to BO 2 sts, then k a certain number of sts. The st remaining on the right needle after binding off counts as the first of these sts. Buttonholes are arranged to be centered within stripes. Next Row [RS]: K2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4], (BO 2 sts, k4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5]) twice, BO 2 sts, k2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4]; [BO 2 sts, k2] 7 times; (BO 2 sts, k4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5]) 3 times, BO 2 sts, k to end. K 1 row, casting on 2 sts over each set of bound-off sts. K 2 rows. BO all sts using sewn bind off. Hem: Using US #4/3.5 circular needle and MC, with WS facing, pick up and k 1 st in each CO st around lower edge of sweater. Work 4 rows in stockinette st. Slip all sts onto a length of waste yarn. Fold hem facing to WS of work. Steam lightly and pin facing in place. Use working yarn to sew live sts of facing to WS of work, taking care not to sew too tightly. Sew buttons to button band opposite buttonholes. Buttons should be centered within stripes.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Weaverknits was born as a collaboration of two sisters who have been making things since they were born. Beth, and interior designer, helps brainstorm design inspiration and ideas; Ann, an Indie Rock Secretary extensively trained in art and Assyriology, knits them into being. The other members of the Weaver family serve as models, photographers, and consultants. You can read more about it all on Ann’s blog.
Pattern & images © 2008 Weaverknits. Contact Ann