[cropped cabled cardigan]

by Annie Modesitt

This Cardigan is worked in simple shapes. The back is a square, the fronts are two rectangles. The sleeve is the usual truncated "V" shape but with a twist: at the top edge, the center 10 stitches are continued on to create a saddle shoulder. This piece continues to the neck opening on either side.

Just above the bustline, the 9-stitch cable breaks into two 4-stitch Double Gullwing Cables with the center stitch continuing on as a slipped stitch for nice definition.

I don't like to use the word "easy" because that varies based on each knitter's expertise [some are natural cablers, some are natural lace knitters, etc.], but I do consider these reasonably simple cables. The effect of this sweater is stunning and gives a lot of bang for your cabled buck [no aran cable calisthenics here!]

The final touch are crocheted buttons. Little wooly donuts!

model: A nice tree     photo: Annie Modesitt

XS[S, M, L, XL]
30.5[32.5, 36, 40, 44] inches / 77[82, 91, 102, 112] cm

MATERIALS

[MC] Brown Sheep Top of the Lamb worsted [100% Wool Color; 190 yards /173 meters per skein]; color: Red Baron; 1,300 [1,500, 1,700, 2,000, 2,200] yards
[CC1] worsted weight yarn; contrasting color of your choice; 20 yds
[CC2] worsted weight yarn; contrasting color of your choice; 20 yds

1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles
1 set US #8/5 mm straight needles
1 US #7/4.5mm circular needle
1 size US E crochet hook

21 sts/24 rows = 4" in cable on US 8/5mm needle
18 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch on US 8/5mm needle

Back

Hem Facing
With a single strand of MC and size 7 needles cast on 84[96, 106, 116, 126] sts.
Work 5 rows in st st, ending with a RS row.
Next row [WS] change to size 8 needles and knit.

Establish Charted Pattern
Next row [RS] P 0[6, 4, 2, 0] sts, then work row 1 of cable pattern 6[6, 7, 8, 9] times, ending with P 0[6, 4, 2, 0] sts.
Continue in charted pattern as established, repeating rows 1-12 until back measures 18.5[20, 21.5, 23, 24] inches from rev st st row.
End with row 6 or 12 of the cable chart.
Next row [RS] begin row 13 of cable chart, establishing Double Gull Cable Pattern where 9 st braided cable had been in previous rows.
Repeat rows 13 & 14 for 4 inches, until piece measures 22.5[24, 25.5, 27, 28] inches from rev st st row.

Fronts [L and R]

Pocket Linings [make 2]
CO 19 sts and work 3 inches in st st.

Hem Facing
With a single strand of MC and size 7 needles, co 43[47, 53, 59, 63] sts for each front. Work both fronts at the same time.
Work 5 rows in st st, end with a RS row.
Next row [WS] change to size 8 needles and knit.

Establish Cable Pattern
Next row [RS] P 1[3, 6, 1, 3] sts, then work row 1 of cable pattern 3[3, 3, 4, 4] times, ending with P 0[2, 5, 0, 4] sts.
Continue working in pattern as established until piece measures 3.5 inches from rev st st row.

Pocket Welts
Next row [RS] work 12[14, 17, 20, 22] sts in pattern as established, place marker, [k1, p1] 9 times, k1, place marker, work remaining 12[14, 17, 20, 22] sts in pattern as established.
Next row [WS] work 12[14, 17, 20, 22] sts in pattern as established, slip marker, [k1, p1] 9 times, k1, slip marker, work remaining 12[14, 17, 20, 22] sts in pattern as established.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more for a total of 4 rows of seed stitch in the center of the work.

Pocket Opening
Next row [RS] Work 12[14, 17, 20, 22] sts in pattern as established, remove marker and BO next 19 sts in pattern, remove marker.
Slip one pocket lining to LH needle and work 19 sts, continuing charted pattern as previously established, work to end.

Continue working front as for back, changing to double gull wing charted pattern when piece measures 18.5[20, 21.5, 23, 24] inches from rev st st row.
Work in double gull wing cable for 1 inch.

Neck Shaping
Working both sides at once and continuing in gull wing cable as established, BO 10 sts from each neck edge once, then continue binding off as follows:

BO 2 sts at neck edge every row 3 times: 27[31, 37, 43, 47 sts]
BO 1 st at neck edge every row 5 times: 22[26, 32, 38, 42 sts]
BO 1 st at neck edge every other row 0[1, 2, 4, 5] times: 21[22, 23, 25, 26] sts rem.

Work even until fronts measure same as back.
BO rem 21[22, 23, 25, 26] sts at each shoulder.

Sleeves [make 2]

Hem Facing

With a single strand of MC and size 7 needles, CO 33 [35, 37, 39, 41] sts.
Work 5 rows in st st, end with a RS row.
Next row [WS] change to size 8 needles and knit.

Establish Chart Pattern
Next row [RS] starting with stitch 5[4, 3, 2, 1] of Braided Cable Chart, work row 1 across all sts, end with stitch 9[10, 11, 12, 13]
Inc 1 st each edge every 4th row 21[25, 29, 33, 34] times and AT SAME TIME continue working in pattern as established, incorporating new stitches into charted pattern until sleeve measures 14[15, 16, 17, 18] inches.
End with row 6 or 12 of the cable chart.

Next row [RS] begin row 13 of cable chart, establishing Double Gull Cable Pattern where 9 st Braided Cable had been in previous rows.
Continue working increases until there are 74[85, 95, 105, 109] sts on the needle. Work even until sleeve measures 18[19, 20, 21, 22] inches.
End with a WS row.

Saddle Shoulder
Next row [RS] BO 27[33, 38, 43, 45] sts, work to end.
Next row [WS] BO 28[33, 38, 43, 45] sts, work to end.
Next row; [k1, p1] twice, k1, work Double Gull Cable over next 9 sts, [k1, p1] twice, end k1.
Repeat previous row until Sleeve Saddle measures 4[4.75, 5.5, 6.25, 7] inches.
BO all sts.

Block all pieces. Sew fronts to sleeves, nesting top of front into sleeve as per the measured sketch. Sew back to sleeves, then sew underarm and side seams.

Left Placket
With a single strand of MC and size 7 needles, pick up and knit 108 [119, 131, 142, 154] sts along the left front.
Work in seed stitch for 8 rows.
BO all sts loosely in pattern.

Right Placket
Repeat as for the left front, working the 12 buttonholes in 4th row of placket as follows: Work 5 [5, 6, 6, 7] sts, *BO 2 sts, work 7[8, 9, 10, 11] sts* - rep between *s 12 times, work 4 sts.
Next row [WS] CO 2 sts at each buttonhole.

Neck Facing
With a size 7 circular needle, pick up and knit 97[105, 105, 113, 113] sts around neck opening, including facings.
Next row [WS] purl.
Next row [RS] work row 1 of neck facing colorwork chart [at right] using CC1 and CC2 to work the pattern.
Repeat chart 12[13, 13, 14, 14] times around neck opening, end with stitch 1.
Follow chart to row 3.

Top Buttonhole
Next row [RS] K2, BO 2 sts. Continue working in pattern as established.
Next row [WS] work in charted pattern to bound off sts, CO 2 sts, work to end.
Continue working in pattern, working row 6 as a rev st st row [this will be the turning row for the facing.]
Work to row 9 of chart, repeat buttonhole as for row 3.
Work to last row of chart, BO all sts loosely.

Turn all facings at the hem, cuffs and neck under and whip stitch in place to the wrong side.
Stitch around top buttonhole to secure the front and back facings and to make buttoning easier.

Buttons [Make 12 in MC]
With a single strand of worsted weight yarn and a size E crochet hook, work 4 chain stitches.
Join ends, creating tiny circle.
Round 1: Work 12 sc stitches in circle.
Round 2: Work 2 sc stitches in each stitch from the first row [24 sts].
Round 3: *Work 1 sc st in next st, then 2 sts in next st* repeat between *s to end of round [36 sts]
Round 4: Work 1 sc stitch every two stitches [18].
Round 5: Work 1 sc stitch every two stitches [9 sts].
Measure 18" of yarn from the last stitch, break thread.
Thread yarn through remaining 12 sts and pull tight, tighten with a knot.

Annie Modesitt still lives in South Orange, NJ, with her incredibly patient husband and kids, who rarely see mommy when she's not knitting.

Her designs have appeared in most of the major US knitting magazines, but she still loves KNITTY even more. Annie knits using the combination method and she's really, really fast. Really.

And if they hadn't changed the venue for the fastest knitter contest, she would have won. Bitter, no, not her, not really. Not the TRUE fastest knitter, aka Annie Modesitt.