Knitty: Winter 2006

<click for more!

by Jillian Moreno I'm sick of knitting scarves out of my handspun. I wanted to do something sweater-y but don't have the stick to spin enough for a sweater. Combining hanspun with a millspun yarn seemed the perfect combo, I also think that the combination really shows off the handspun. I spun my gorgeous Spunky Eclectic BFL as a 2-ply bulky to the buttery soft Morehouse Merino's worsted. I like the chunk of it against the airy single ply of the Moorehouse. Using a bigger yarn for collars and cuffs is an easy way to shape them with few or no increases and I'm all for easy. I was amazed how far my 200+ yards of bulky went. I knitted my edges in the order that they were important to me, in case I ran out of yarn - a big collar that wraps the shoulders, wide front panels, split belled cuffs, and an asymmetrical bottom edge -- a bum flap. I thought a button closure would distract from the yarn, so closing it or not is up to the wearer. In the photos I use a lovely glass closure from Moving Mud.
model: Teacher Amanda photos: Jillian Moreno


SIZE
M[L, XL] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 41[46, 52] inches, when closed Front Length: 21[23, 24] inches Back Length: 24[26, 27] inches

MATERIALS
[MC] Morehouse Merino 3 ply [100% merino wool; 140yd/128m per 2 oz skein]; color: Plum; 6[7, 8] skeins [CC] Handspun bulky yarn from Spunky Eclectic roving, 100% BFL fiber; color: custom color, 2-ply, 6-7 WPI, 220 yds. 1 set US #8/5mm straight needles 1 set US #10/6mm straight needles Tapestry needle Stitch markers Stitch holders

GAUGE
16 sts/20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using smaller needles and MC 12 sts/18 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using larger needles and CC

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
Instructions for a Provisional Cast On can be found here. Moss Stitch (Worked over an even number of sts): Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to end. Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to end. Repeat these 2 rows for Moss Stitch. Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches: When working rows which follow short rows, work the "wraps" at the turning points of the short rows, together with the stitches they wrap, as follows: When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on right needle, insert left needle into both wrap and stitch, and knit them together. When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on right needle, slip both wrap and stitch back to left needle, purl together through back loops. Three-Needle Bind Off Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together. Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st. Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

DIRECTIONS
Back Using Provisional Cast On, with smaller needles and MC, CO 83[93, 105] sts. Row 1 [RS]: P1, k1, p1, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1. Row 2 [WS]: K1, p1, k1, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more. Work measures 2 inches. Work in stockinette st until work measures 11[12.5, 13] inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Armholes BO 7[8, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 69[77, 85] sts. Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 8] times more. 57[63, 67] sts. Continue in stockinette st until work measures 19.5[21.5, 22.5] inches (armhole measures 8.5[9, 9.5] inches), ending with a WS row. Shape Shoulders K to last 4 sts, w&t. P to last 4 sts, w&t. K to last 8 sts, w&t. P to last 8 sts, w&t. K to last 12 sts, w&t. P to last 12 sts, w&t. K to end of row, working wraps together with wrapped sts (see note in "Pattern Notes", above). Last Row [WS]: P16[17, 18], BO next 25[29, 31] sts, p to end, working remaining wraps together with wrapped sts. Place remaining sts of each shoulder on st holders. Lower Band Remove waste yarn from CO edge and place resulting live sts on needle. Using larger needle and CC, work as follows: Size M Only: Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, ssk, k2tog, [k2, k2tog] to last 5 sts, k1, p2tog, k1, p1. 62 sts. Size L Only: Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, ssk, [k2, k2tog] to last 5 sts, k1, p2tog, k1, p1. 70 sts. Size XL Only: Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, ssk, k2tog, [k2, k2tog] to last 7 sts, k1, k2tog, p2tog, k1, p1. 78 sts. All Sizes: Row 2 [WS]: P1, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. Row 3 [RS]: K1, p1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. Repeat these 2 rows until band measures 2 inches. Work in Moss Stitch until band measures 3 inches. BO all sts. Right Front Using smaller needles and MC, CO 36[42, 48] sts. Work in Moss Stitch until work measures 2 inches. Work in stockinette st until work measures 11[12.5, 13] inches, ending with a RS row. Shape Armhole: Next Row [WS]: BO 7[8, 10] sts, p to end. 29[34, 38] sts. Next Row [RS]: K to last 2 sts, ssk, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 8] times more. 23[27, 29] sts. Continue in stockinette st until work measures 17[19, 20] inches (armhole measures 6[6.5, 7] inches), ending with a WS row. Shape Neckline: Next Row [RS]: BO 4[6, 6] sts, k to end. 19[21, 23] sts. P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 4] times more. 16[17, 18] sts. Work 4[2, 0] more rows in stockinette st. Work measures same as back to beginning of shoulder shaping. Shape Shoulder K12[13, 14], w&t. P to end. K8[9, 10], w&t. P to end. K4[5, 6], w&t. P to end. K to end of row, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Place sts on st holder. Left Front Using smaller needles and MC, CO 36[42, 48] sts. Work in Moss Stitch until work measures 2 inches. Work in stockinette st until work measures 11[12.5, 13] inches, ending with a WS row. Shape Armhole Next Row [RS]: BO 7[8, 10] sts, k to end. 29[34, 38] sts. P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 8] times more. 23[27, 29] sts. Continue in stockinette st until work measures 17[19, 20] inches (armhole measures 6[6.5, 7] inches), ending with a RS row. Shape Neckline Next Row [WS]: BO 4[6, 6] sts, p to end. 19[21, 23] sts. Next Row [RS]: K to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 4] times more. 16[17, 18] sts. Work 5[3, 1] more rows in stockinette st. Work measures same as back to beginning of shoulder shaping. Shape Shoulder P12[13, 14], w&t. K to end. P8[9, 10], w&t. K to end. P4[5, 6], w&t. K to end. P to end of row, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Place sts on st holder. Sleeves (Make 2) Using Provisional Cast On, with smaller needles and MC, CO 36[40, 44] sts. Beginning with a p row, work 5 rows in stockinette st. Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. Repeat these 6 rows 3[4, 5] times more. 44[50, 56] sts. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 4 rows 11[10, 9] times more. 68[72, 76] sts. Continue in stockinette st until work measures 15.5[16, 16.5] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row. Note: A 3-inch cuff will be added to the sleeve. Keep this in mind when determining sleeve length. Shape Sleeve Cap: BO 7[8, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 54[56, 56] sts. Decrease Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 6[8, 9] times more. 40[38, 36] sts. Work Decrease Row as above. Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. Repeat these 2 rows 3[2, 1] times more. 24[26, 28] sts. BO 3 sts at beginning of next 3 rows. BO remaining 12[14, 16] sts. Cuff Note: Because cuff is worked at a larger gauge than the sleeve, but on the same number of sts, it will flare. Remove waste yarn from CO edge and place resulting live sts on needle. Using larger needle and CC, work as follows: Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. Row 2 [WS]: K1, p1, k1, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Repeat these 2 rows until cuff measures 2 inches. Work in Moss Stitch until cuff measures 3 inches. BO all sts.

FINISHING
Join shoulders using Three-Needle Bind Off. Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams, leaving side edges of cuffs unsewn. Sew side seams, leaving lower 2 inches of side seam open (measuring along side edge of front piece). Collar Using larger needle and CC, with WS facing and beginning at left front neckline edge, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 bound-off sts and 1 st for every 2 rows around neckline edge, placing st markers at each shoulder seam, and ending at right front edge. Note: When working the collar, RS rows will be worked with the WS of the jacket facing, and WS rows with the RS of the jacket facing. This is so that when the collar is turned back, the RS of the collar will be facing. Count the number of sts between the shoulder seam markers. When working the next row, place a marker on either side of the central 6 back neck sts. Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. Work 2 rows in patt as set, working 3 sts at each edge in Moss Stitch and all other sts in stockinette st. Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, k to 1 st before first shoulder marker, m1, k2, m1, k to 1 st before first back neck marker, m1, k to second back neck marker, k1, m1, k to 1 st before second shoulder marker, m1, k2, m1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. 6 sts increased. Work 3 rows in patt as set. Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 24 sts have been increased. Continue in patt as set until collar measures 7 inches. Work in Moss Stitch until collar measures 8 inches. Loosely BO all sts. Front Bands Using larger needles and CC, with RS facing and beginning at lower right front edge, pick up sts along right front edge as follows: [pick up and k 1 st in each of first 3 rows, skip next row, pick up and k 1 st in each of next 2 rows, skip 1 row] to upper end of right front edge. Row 1 [WS]: K1, p1, k1, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Row 2 [RS]: K1, p1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1. Repeat these 2 rows until front band measures 3 inches. Work in Moss Stitch until front band measures 4 inches. Loosely BO all sts. Work band on left front to match. Weave in all ends and block sweater as desired.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Jillian Moreno is the editor of Knittyspin and dreams about fluffy white fleeces in Ann Arbor, Michigan.
Pattern & images © 2006 Jillian Moreno.