Knitty: Latvian Vest - Winter 2008

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model: Kieran Foley

photos: Jonathan Law

by Kieran Foley

A colorful vest celebrating the rich knitting traditions of Latvia.

I was interested in the challenge of designing a sweater, and found inspiration in The Galleries of Mittens assembled for the Riga Nato Summit, 2006. The collected mittens are a treasure trove of inventive patterns and color combinations.

The arrangement of the patterns and colors in the vest can be varied as you wish, and the proportions can be modified by adding or subtracting pattern repeats.

The vest is designed to be quite close fitting across the shoulders, in the style of traditional waistcoats worn over a plain white shirt. It is knit in the round to the underarms, then the Front and Back are worked separately, back and forth.

Techniques include stranded knitting, trapping, short row shaping, and the three needle bind-off.

I’ve worked with a relatively restrained color palette in the sample, which can be adjusted according to taste – desaturated to monochrome, or cranked up to full blast. There are lots of ideas for alternative colorings on my website.

This project is is recommended for knitters with some experience of sweater making.

SIZE

S[M, L, 1X, 2X] (Shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 36[40, 43, 47, 52] inches
Length: 25[26.75, 27, 28.5, 29] inches

MATERIALS

Rowan Purewool 4ply [100% superwash wool; 174yd/160m per 50g ball]
[A] #411 Navy (navy blue); 4[4, 5, 5, 6] skeins
[B] #402 Shale (grey); 2[2, 3, 3, 4] skeins
[C] #445 Chalk (pale blue); 1 skein
[D] #436 Kiss (red); 1 skein
[E] #401 Clay (light grey); 1 skein
[F] #421 Glade (green); 1 skein
[G] #450 Eau de Nil (turquoise); 1 skein

[H] Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran [55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere; 98yd/90m per 50g skein]; color: #208 (blue); 1[1, 2, 2, 2] skeins
Note: See pattern notes re. yarn weight if substituting yarns.

Recommended needle size:
1 US #1/2.25mm circular needle
1 US #3/3.25mm circular needle
For smaller sizes, use needles 24 to 32 inches long; for larger sizes, use needles 32 to 40 inches long.

1 16 inch US #1/2.25mm circular needle or set of double-point needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Stitch markers
Stitch holders
Yarn needle

GAUGE

27 sts/29 rows = 4 inches in stranded colorwork pattern using larger needles, worked in the round, after blocking

Note: Pattern worked back and forth may have a slightly different gauge. You may wish to use different-sized needles for working back and forth than for working in the round to ensure consistent gauge.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Yarn Weights: In the sweater shown, one of the yarns used (shade H, blue) is subtantially heavier than the other yarns used. To make it a more compatible weight, a ply was removed as it was worked, thinning it to a thickness similar to that of the other yarn used. The designer did this by removing the unwanted ply several feet at a time while working, snipping off the excess each time. Alternately, the yarn could be prepared ahead of time, by rewinding the ball while removing the strand.
If you are substituting yarns or working with different colors, try to choose yarns of the same weight.

When working stranded colorwork patterns, be sure to trap long yarn floats at back of work. Information about this technique can be found here.

ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip them both, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

SKP: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped stitch over.

1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
All Rounds: [K1, p1] to end.

Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.
Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. *Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*
Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

Charts are sized to fit on a single 8.5x11" sheet of paper.
Please download the chart for the size you are knitting and print if desired.

Charts A, B, C [all sizes]

Chart D
- small
- medium / large
- 1x / 2x

DIRECTIONS

LOWER BODY

Using smaller long circular needle and A, CO 240[272, 288, 320, 352] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work 10 rounds in 1x1 Rib.

Switch to larger circular needle and continue as follows:
Next Round: K120[136, 144, 160, 176], place marker to indicate side 'seam', k120[136, 144, 160, 176].

When working lower body, first and last 4 sts of each round, as well as the 4 sts before and after side marker, will be worked using A. When working these 8-st side panels, be sure to trap long yarn floats of other color being used in color pattern (see Pattern Notes).

Establish Color Pattern:
Set-Up Round: K4 using A, work Round 1 of Chart A to 4 sts before side marker, k8 using A, work Round 1 of Chart A to 4 sts before end-of-round marker, k4 using A.

Maintaining 8 sts at each side of work in A as set, work all rounds of Chart A six times.

Sizes 1X and 2X Only:
Work Rounds 1-7 of Chart A once more.

All Sizes:
Next Round: Using A, k60[68, 72, 80, 88], m1, k120[136, 144, 160, 176], m1, k60[68, 72, 80, 88]. 242[274, 290, 322, 354] sts.

Maintaining 8 sts at each side of work in A as set, work all rounds of Chart B.

K 1 round using A.

Note: Read ahead! Color pattern and armhole shaping are worked at the same time.
If you are using the yarns listed, see Pattern Notes re. yarn weights before proceeding.

Maintaining 8 sts at each side of work in A as set until beginning of armhole shaping, work Rounds 1-12 of Chart C 1[2, 2, 2, 2] times, then work Round 13.

AT THE SAME TIME: After you have completed 0[12, 12, 12, 12] rounds of Chart C, begin armhole shaping on next round.
Round 1: Work in pattern as set (Round 1 of Chart C) to 16[18, 20, 22, 24] sts before end of round; break H, BO 32[36, 40, 44, 48] sts using A.
Round 2: Join H, work in pattern as set (Round 2 of Chart C) to 16[18, 20, 22, 24] sts before end of round; break H, BO 32[36, 40, 44, 48] sts using A; join H, work in pattern to end of round (previous set of bound-off sts).
Two sets of 89[101, 105, 117, 129] sts remain. Set of sts with yarn attached will be upper back; place other set of 89[101, 105, 117, 129] sts on hold on smaller long circular needle, for upper front.

UPPER BACK
From this point, color pattern will be worked back and forth. Switch to a different needle if necessary to maintain correct gauge.

Continue working Chart C as set, shaping armholes as follows.
Row 1 [WS]: P1, ssp, work in pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1
.
Row 2 [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, SKP, k1.
85[97, 101, 113, 125] sts.

Row 3 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.

Rows 4-11: Work as for Rows 2-3. 77[89, 93, 105, 117] sts remain; you will have just completed Row 13 of Chart C.

Row 12 [RS]: Using A, k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, SKP, k1. 75[87, 91, 103, 115] sts.

Row 13 [WS]: Work Row 1 of Chart D for your size.

Work Rows 2-23 of Chart D for your size, decreasing as shown. 73[81, 89, 97, 113] sts.

Work all rows of Charts E and F.

Using A, work 1[5, 9, 13, 15] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders:
Row 1 [RS]: K27[30, 33, 36, 42] and place these sts on st holder for right shoulder; BO next 19[21, 23, 25, 29] sts, k to end. 27[30, 33, 36, 42] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: P to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end.
Row 4 [WS]: P all sts.
Rows 5-8: Work as for Rows 3-4. 23[26, 29, 32, 38] sts.
Row 9 [RS]: K18[20, 22, 23, 28], W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: P to end.
Row 11 [RS]: K13[14, 15, 15, 20], W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P to end.
Row 13 [RS]: K8[8, 8, 8, 12], W&T.
Row 14 [WS]: P to end.
Row 15 [RS]: K all sts, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Place all sts on st holder.

Right Shoulder:
Place held sts of right shoulder on needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn.
Row 1 [WS]: P1, ssp, p to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K to last 3 sts, SKP, k1.
Row 3 [WS]: P all sts.
Rows 4-7: Work as for Rows 2-3. 23[26, 29, 32, 38] sts.
Row 8 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 9 [WS]: P18[20, 22, 23, 28], W&T.
Row 10 [RS]: K to end.
Row 11 [WS]: P13[14, 15, 15, 20], W&T.
Row 12 [RS]: K to end.
Row 13 [WS]: P8[8, 8, 8, 12], W&T.
Row 14 [RS]: K to end.
Row 15 [WS]: P all sts, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Place all sts on st holder.

UPPER FRONT
Work Rows 1-11 as for Upper Back (to end of Chart C).
Row 12 [RS]: Using A, k1, k2tog, k36[42, 44, 50, 56], place marker, k35[41, 43, 49, 55] (to last 3 sts), SKP, k1. 75[87, 91, 103, 115] sts.

Row 13 [WS]: Work Row 1 of Chart D for your size to marker and place the 38[44, 46, 52, 58] sts just worked on a st holder for right front; continue working Row 1 of Chart D to end. 37[43, 45, 51, 57] sts remain.

Left Front:
Continue working chart patterns and armhole shaping as for upper back. At the same time, shape neckline as follows:
Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, SKP, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[7, 9, 11, 15] times more. 30[32, 34, 36, 40] sts.

Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 6[5, 4, 3, 1] times more. 23[26, 29, 32, 38] sts.

Continue in pattern through last row of Chart F.
Using A, work 10[14, 18, 22, 24] rows in stockinette st, ending with a RS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [WS]: P18[20, 22, 23, 28], W&T.
Row 2 [RS]: K to end.
Row 3 [WS]: P13[14, 15, 15, 20], W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: K to end.
Row 5 [WS]: P8[8, 8, 8, 12], W&T.
Row 6 [RS]: K to end.
Row 7 [WS]: P all sts, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Join to held sts of back left shoulder using three-needle bind off.

Right Front:
Place held sts of right front on needle with RS facing and rejoin yarn. At beginning of first row, BO first st (center st).

Continue working chart patterns and armhole shaping as for upper back. At the same time, shape neckline as follows:
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[7, 9, 11, 15] times more. 30[32, 34, 36, 40] sts.

Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 6[5, 4, 3, 1] times more. 23[26, 29, 32, 38] sts.

Continue in pattern through last row of Chart F.
Using A, work 9[14, 17, 21, 23] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [RS]: K18[20, 22, 23, 28], W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to end.
Row 3 [RS]: K13[14, 15, 15, 20], W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to end.
Row 5 [RS]: K8[8, 8, 8, 12], W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P to end.
Row 7 [RS]: K all sts, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Join to held sts of back right shoulder using three-needle bind off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block, steaming neckline and armhole edges if desired.

Neckline ribbing:
Using short circular needle or double-point needles, with RS facing and beginning at left shoulder seam, pick up and k 6 sts for every 7 rows along left front neckline edge, place marker, pick up and k 1 st in center st, 6 sts for every 7 rows along left front neckline edge, 6 sts for every 7 rows and 1 st in each bound off st along back neckline. Place marker and join to work in the round.

Next Round: Work in 1x1 Rib to 2 sts before center front marker, SKP, slip marker, k1, k2tog, work in 1x1 Rib to end.
Repeat this round 8 times more. BO all sts loosely in pattern.

Armhole Ribbing:
Using short circular needle or double-point needles, with RS facing and beginning at center of one underarm, pick up and k 1 st in each bound off st and 6 sts for every 7 rows around armhole. Place marker and join to work in the round.
Work 9 rounds in 1x1 Rib. BO all sts loosely in pattern.

Weave in remaining ends. Block again if desired.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Kieran lives a quiet life in Dublin, Ireland.
His work is inspired by traditional European knitting and Decorative Arts.

He would love to license designs for production.

kieranfoley.com