The branching cables in the design are inspired by the intricate braided designs in Celtic and medieval illuminated manuscripts. All the cables of the main pattern branch off from one beginning, but end in different points throughout the pattern. Since the back of the leg was feeling sparse, I added a small branching medallion on the back, to keep interest from both the front and the back. There’s plenty of cabling to be had here, and it’s important to keep a close eye on which direction the cable should be crossing as the cables start to pile up, however it’s all basic two over two cabling. All the cables make a nice thick padding on the top, perfect for keeping your feet warm during the cold winter months. Combined with the soft warmth of cashmere in the Casbah yarn, your feet will be toasty and happy until spring rolls around. Don’t let the cashmere content scare you away from this yarn, it’s still machine washable. |
|||
SIZE | |||
Men’s Small/Women’s Medium |
|||
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS | |||
Socks fit an 8.5 inch foot (measured at ball of foot) with a 9.5 inch (adjustable) foot length. For a looser fit, go up one needle size. |
|||
MATERIALS | |||
Handmaiden
Casbah [80% Merino/10%
Cashmere /10% Nylon; 354yd/325m
per 115g skein]; color:
Camouflage; 1 skein |
|||
GAUGE | |||
32 sts/44 rounds = 4" in stockinette stitch |
|||
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.] |
|||
Judy’s Magic Cast on: instructions can be found here. W&T on right side: Bring working yarn to front, slip stitch as if to knit, bring working yarn to back, slip stitch as if to purl back to left needle. Turn work. W&T on wrong side: Bring working yarn to back, slip stitch as if to purl, bring working yarn to front, slip stitch as if to purl back to left needle. Turn work. LLI: Left Leaning Increase. Pick up second stitch down on right needle with left needle, knit stitch through back loop. RLI: Right Leaning Increase. Pick up stitch below current stitch on left needle, place stitch on left needle, knit stitch. C2 over 2 right P: Sl 2 to cn, hold in back. k2, p2 from cn C2 over 2 left P: Sl 2 to cn, hold in front. p2, k2 from cn C2 over 2 right: Sl 2 to cn, hold in back. k2, k2 from cn C2 over 2 left: Sl 2 to cn, hold in front. k2, k2 from cn Working with Magic Loop or Two Circular Needles: Although the instructions are written for working with double point needles, this pattern can be easily be worked using the Magic Loop or Two Circular method, and some may find it easier to do the instep cables in this method. Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind off: instructions can be found here. Main Chart for the front of the sock is rather large, so we've broken it into 4 parts to make it printable. Please download each part of the chart and assemble them, left to right, top to bottom as follows, to produce the complete Main Chart: | |||
DIRECTIONS | |||
Toe CO 6 sts, 3 on each needle, using Judy’s Magic Cast on, ensuring you leave at least a 6 inch tail. Knit 1 round using both tail and working yarn held together for every st. Each loop on your needles is counted as a single st. 12 sts total. Knit 1 round. Redistribute sts, 3 onto each dpn. Place markers between sts 2 and 3, between sts 4 and 5, between sts 8 and 9, and between sts 10 and 11. Needles 1 & 2 are instep, 3 & 4 are sole. Toe increase rounds Repeat these two rounds until there are 66 sts total. Remove stitch markers. Work in Stockinette until sock measures 4 inches. (For a shorter foot, work 3.5 inches, for a longer foot, work 4.5 inches.) Foot Begin working Main Chart
[download
the four parts and
assemble as instructed
in Pattern Notes
above]
starting on the center
4 purl stitches,
adding purl stitches
outside of chart,
or increasing on
each side as per
chart. Stitches that
are not part of the
chart are worked
in stockinette. End
after round 49. Heel turn setup Continuing on same round as before, working on needles 3 & 4... Row 1 [RS]: K3 [sl 1, k1] until 2 sts remain, w&t. From here, you'll work
back and forth only on
the 33 sts on needles
3 & 4, leave
sts on needles 1 & 2 on hold. Move all stitches before the stitch marker from needle 1 to needle 4, and slip all stitches after the stitch marker on needle 2 to a free needle. Working yarn will be on needle 3, you will start row 1 with needle 5. Row 1 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] 15 times, ssk. Repeat these 2 rows until 35 stitches remain on needles 3 & 4. Next Row [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] 15 times, ssk, k1. At this point, you'll resume knitting in the round. Next round: K3, place marker, resume round 51 of
main chart, place marker after end of chart, k3 to end of
needle 2. At start of needle 3, k1, k2tog, k to end
of needle 4. Next round: Work in pattern as established until Chart is
complete, then k16, pfb, k to end. Continue working leg, following main chart for needles 1 & 2, and working back medallion chart on needles 3 & 4, starting on center 4 purl sts. As with front, stitches that are not part of the chart are worked in stockinette. After final round of both charts, there will be 28 stitches each on needles 1 & 2, and 38 each stitches on needles 3 & 4. Shift 5 stitches from needle 4 to needle 1, and 5 stitches from needle 3 to needle 2. 33 stitches on needles 1 & 2, 33 stitches on needles 3 & 4. 132 sts. The end of needle 4 remains the end/beginning of round. Knit in stockinette for 1 inch. Cuff Bind off using Elizabeth
Zimmermann’s sewn bind-off, or preferred
bind off method. |
|||
FINISHING | |||
Weave in ends. |
|||
ABOUT THE DESIGNER | |||
Scott
started knitting two
years ago, and quickly
acquired an obsession with
all things stick and string related. Although cabled knitting
is a favorite, branching out to other types of knitting is
not unknown. He lives in Seattle with his wife, who fuels his
hobby with her own love of spinning, and a cat who thankfully
doesn’t care about the yarn
at all.
Glimpses of his yarn and fiber adventures can be found here. |
|||
Pattern & images © 2008 Scott Dilley. Contact Scott |