Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Blue Moon Fiber Arts - DeVine!
Title

Tangy

I’m a sucker for chunky knits. I love how quickly they work up, how deliciously weighty they feel when worn, and how cozy they keep me during the chilly winter months. As a curvy girl, though, it can be tough to knit in the heavier gauges while still flattering my figure.

I designed this vest to be fun to knit, with just enough challenging techniques to keep me on my toes.  It features a ribbed back panel and knit-on pockets for a stylish challenge. But I also wanted it to be fun to wear; fitted with a ribbed back panel and waist shaping, swingy, and fashion-forward with boots and skinny jeans.

Like a warm cup of the tea its named after, the Rooibos vest will be a great layering piece for winter and beyond.

Editor's note: it's pronounced "Roy-boss". Because I figure more people than just me didn't know that either.

spacer model: Amy Swenson spacer photos: Sandra Tiano

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M)

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches, with front edges overlapped
Length: 27.5[28.5, 29, 29.25, 30.5, 30.75, 32] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Blue Moon Fiber Arts De-Vine [100% Merino; 225yd/205m per 8oz/226 g skein]; color: Oregon Red Clover Honey; 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 set US #10.5/6.5mm straight needles OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
spacer 1 set US #10/6mm straight needles
spacer 1 16 inch US #10/6mm circular needle or set double-point needles
spacer 1 40 inch US #10/6mm circular needle

Notions
spacer Yarn needle
spacer Stitch holders or spare circular needle

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GAUGE

12 sts / 20 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch using larger needles, AFTER BLOCKING.

Note: It is essential to wet block your swatch before measuring gauge, in order to select proper needle size and to ensure your finished garment is the size/length intended. Soak the swatch for 20 minutes in warm water, then gently squeeze out water and lay swatch lay flat to dry.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Because the row gauge of the fabric will change during blocking, this pattern will direct you to work to row counts, rather than to follow length measurements. If you wish to change the length of any part of this garment, work more or fewer rows; a difference of 4 rows will change the length by slightly less than 1 inch.

Instructions for Mattress Stitch can be found here.

Information about blocking can be found here and here.

2x2 Rib (Worked back and forth over a multiple of 4 sts + 2):
Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p2, k2] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2x2 Rib.

2x2 Rib (Worked in the round over a multiple of 4 sts):
All Rounds: [K2, p2] to end.

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DIRECTIONS

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BACK
Using smaller straight needles, CO 50[54, 62, 66, 74, 78, 86] sts.

Work 12[12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] rows 2x2 Rib, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Using larger needles, k all sts, evenly decreasing 2[0, 2, 0, 2, 0, 2] sts. 48[54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84] sts.

Work 25[25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 27] more rows stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Note: See Pattern Notes above re. altering length. As written, vest will measure approx. 11.5[11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12, 12, 12.5] inches below ribbed waistband.

Shape Waist:
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K8, ssk, k to last 10 sts, k2tog, k8.

Work 7 rows stockinette st.

Repeat these 8 rows once more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 42[48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78] sts.

Work 2 rows stockinette st.
Next Row [WS]: Work in stockinette st, evenly increasing 0[2, 0, 2, 0, 2, 0] sts over the width of the row. 42[50, 54, 62, 66, 74, 78] sts.

Work 16[16, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18] rows 2x2 Rib, ending with a WS row.

K 1 RS row.

P 1 WS row, evenly decreasing 0[2, 0, 2, 0, 2, 0] sts over the width of the row. 42[48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78] sts.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: K8, kfb, k to last 9 sts, kfb, k8.
Work 5 rows stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows once more, then work Waist Increase Row once more. 48[54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84] sts.

Work 11[13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15] more rows stockinette st, ending with a WS row.
Note: As written, vest measures 20[20.5, 20.5, 20.5, 21.25, 21.25, 22] inches to underarm.

Shape Armholes:
BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 40[44, 48, 52, 56, 62, 66] sts.
BO 2[3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 36[38, 40, 42, 46, 50, 54] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Ssk, k to end.
Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] times more. 32[32, 34, 36, 40, 44, 46] sts.

Work 24[24, 24, 24, 28, 30, 30] rows stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: K11[11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 16] and place these sts just worked on st holder or spare needle; BO 10[10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14] sts, k to end. 11[11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 16] sts.

Left Back Neckline:
Rows 1, 3, 5 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 2 sts, k to end. 9[9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 14] sts.
Row 4 [RS]: Ssk, k to end. 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 13] sts.
Repeat Rows 4-5 0[0, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1] time(s) more. 8[8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12] sts.
BO all sts.

Right Back Neckline:
Place held sts of right shoulder on needle and join yarn with WS facing.
Row 1 [WS]: BO 2 sts, p to end. 9[9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 14] sts.
Rows 2-3: Work in stockinette st.
Row 4 [RS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 13] sts.
Row 5 [WS]: P all sts.
Repeat Rows 4-5 0[0, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1] time(s) more. 8[8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12] sts.
BO all sts.

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LEFT FRONT
Using smaller straight needles, CO 26[30, 30, 34, 38, 42, 42] sts.

Work 12[12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] rows 2x2 Rib, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Using larger needles, k all sts, evenly decreasing 2[2, 0, 0, 2, 2, 0] sts over the width of the row. 24[28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42] sts.

Work 7 rows stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Set Up For Pocket:
Next Row [RS]: K3[5, 6, 8, 7, 9, 10], [kfb] 18[18, 18, 18, 22, 22, 22] times, k3[5, 6, 8, 7, 9, 10].

Next Row [WS]: P3[5, 6, 8, 7, 9, 10], [p next st, slip following st to st holder held to RS of work] 18[18, 18, 18, 22, 22, 22] times, p3[5, 6, 8, 7, 9, 10].

You will once again have 24[28, 30, 34, 36, 40, 42] sts on needle, wth 18[18, 18, 18, 22, 22, 22] sts sitting on a st holder at RS of work.

Work 16[16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 18] more rows stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Note: If you altered length of back below waistband, be sure to alter length of lower front by same amount.

Shape Waist:
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K8, ssk, k end.

Work 7 rows stockinette st.

Repeat these 8 rows once more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more.
21[25, 27, 31, 33, 37, 39] sts.

Work 21[21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23] rows stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Shape Neckline and Waist:
Next Row [RS]: K8, kfb, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 5 rows stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more.

Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping will begin before neckline shaping is complete.

Shaping neckline as described below, work 6[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10] more rows without shaping at side edge (11[13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15] rows worked since last waist increase), then proceed to armhole shaping.

Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: K to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 5[5, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 6[6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 4[5, 5, 7, 6, 7, 7] times more. A total of 8[9, 9, 11, 10, 11, 11] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

AT THE SAME TIME: When work is same length (has same number of rows) as back to underarms, ending with a WS row, shape armhole as follows:

Row 1 [RS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts, k to end.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-6 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: BO 2[3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, k to end.
Row 5 [RS]: Ssk, k to end.
Repeat Rows 5-6 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] times more.

Work 30[30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 38] rows in stockinette st, shaping neckline as set. When all neckline and armhole shaping has been completed, 8[8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12] sts remain.
BO remaining sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Work as for Left Front to beginning of waist shaping.

Shape Waist:
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K to last 10 sts, k2tog, k8.
Work 7 rows stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows once more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more.
21[25, 27, 31, 33, 37, 39] sts.

Work 21[21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23] rows stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Shape Neckline and Waist:
Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, k to last 9 sts, kfb, k8.
Work 5 rows stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more.

Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping will begin before neckline shaping is complete.

Shaping neckline as described below, work 7[9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11] more rows without shaping at side edge (12[14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 16 rows worked since last waist increase), then proceed to armhole shaping.

Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, k to end.
Work 5[5, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 6[6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 4[5, 5, 7, 6, 7, 7] times more. A total of 8[9, 9, 11, 10, 11, 11] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

AT THE SAME TIME: When work is same length (has same number of rows) as back to underarms, ending with a RS row, shape armhole as follows:

Row 1 [WS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts, p to end.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-6 [WS]: K all sts.
Row 3 [WS]: BO 2[3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, p to end.
Row 5 [WS]: P2tog, p to end.
Repeat Rows 5-6 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] times more.

Work 29[29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 37] rows in stockinette st, shaping neckline as set. When all neckline and armhole shaping has been completed, 8[8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12] sts remain.
BO remaining sts.

POCKETS
Place 18[18, 18, 18, 22, 22, 22] held sts of one pocket on larger straight needle and join yarn with RS facing. Note that when RS of pocket is facing, lower edge of vest front will be closest to you.

Row 1 [RS]: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, k to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows 8[8, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10] times more. 18[18, 18, 18, 20, 22, 22] rows have been worked.
Work 6 rows 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts in pattern.

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FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams and side seams.

Pockets:
Sew shoulder seams and side seams. Flip the pockets up so they lay flat against the front of the vest.
Pin the corners in place, then use mattress stitch to sew the sides down.

Armhole Edging:
Using short smaller circular needle or double-point needles, beginning at center of underarm with RS facing, pick up and k 1 st in each bound off or decreased st and 2 sts for every 3 rows around sts around one armhole; place marker and join to begin working in the round.
Count sts; if necessary, increase or decrease up to 2 sts in the first round to obtain a multiple of 4 sts.
Work 6 rounds 2x2 Rib. Loosely BO all sts in pattern.
Work the other armhole in the same way.

Front Bands:
Using long smaller circular needle, beginning at lower right front corner with RS facing, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along right front edge, 1 st in each bound off st or decreased st across back neckline, and 2 sts for every 3 rows along left front edge, ending at lower left front corner.
Count sts; if necessary, increase or decrease up to 2 sts in the first row to obtain a multiple of 4 sts + 2.
Work 13 rows 2x2 Rib.
Loosely BO all sts in pattern.

Weave in all ends. Wet block vest, adjusting to desired measurements.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Amy M Swenson is a newish resident of Toronto, where her yarn stash has already taken over her small Victorian house. She develops web applications for the Government of Ontario and designs knitting and crochet patterns for everyone. She’s proud to have been part of knitty from the early days.

You can find many of her other patterns on Ravelry and her blog at indigirl.com.

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