Funny how a sock and a book can connect worlds of thoughts.
Roberto Saviano, passionate and courageous
28-year-old writer of ‘Gomorra’,
is the Italian Salman Rushdie: round-the-clock, he is guarded by seven
bodyguards. Digging too deep into the world of the Neapolitan camorra
or mafia, means paying a high price for Roberto.
In his book, well-documented
he unravels the economic and military
structures of ‘The System’,
reveals how locals are recruited, bribed, and he spills a large
number of beans.
While
reading the book and working on these socks,
I remembered vividly how my boyfriend (now
husband) and I cycled through Italy in 1991,
around Naples as well as Palermo. Way back then, we felt very
uncomfortable there, and made sure we got out as fast as we could.
Using different yarns for one pattern will drastically change the character
of the socks. For a tender Passione version, I used the ultra-soft ‘Angel’ yarn
in a gentle yellow. The manly Coraggio version is shown in Blue Moon Fiber
Arts yarn in a deep brown, as well as the brick red option shown above,
and a blue/green from the Natural Dye Studio.
Enjoy these two different
effects. They are my homage to this very passionate and courageous person.
photos: Marjan
Hammink
SIZE
Adult S[M, L] (shown in all three sizes)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot length: 9¾[10¼, 10½] inches
Foot circumference – because of ribbing very stretchy: 7½[8,
8] inches, slightly stretched
Length of gusset: 3¼[3½, 4] inches
MATERIALS
Yarn
The
Natural Dye Studio Angel 4ply
Sock [70% baby alpaca, 20% silk, 10%
cashmere; 360 m per 100 g skein];
color: yellow; 1 skein [shown below].
The
Natural Dye Studio BFL Dazzle 4ply/Sock [100%
Blue Faced Leicester wool; 360 m per 100
g skein]; color: Bluebell (green/blue); 1
skein [shown below].
Blue
Moon Fiber Arts Socks That Rock Heavyweight
[100% superwash merino; 350 yd/ 320
m per 7 oz / 198 g skein]; color: ‘Brick’ (red,
shown at top) OR ‘Manly, yes, but I like it too!’ (brown,
shown below); 1 skein each.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] One
32-inch US #3/3.25 mm circular needle OR 1 set(s) US #3/3.25 mm double-point needles
26
sts/35 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette
stitch in the round
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
M1L (make one, leaning left): insert left needle
into stitch two rows below the first stitch on the right needle,
knit this stitch.
M1R (make one, leaning right): insert
right needle into stitch below the first stitch on the
left needle. Lift this stitch onto the left needle, knit
this stitch.
M1PL: For the left gusset, increase left-leaning
purlwise as follows: insert left needle into stitch two
rows below the first stitch on the right needle; purl this
stitch.
M1PR: For right gusset, increase right-leaning
purlwise as follows: insert right needle into stitch below
the first stitch on the left needle. Lift this stitch onto
the left needle; purl this stitch.
w&t (wrap and turn): On a knit stitch:
slip next stitch with yarn in back, bring yarn to front,
slip stitch back to left needle, turn work. On a purl stitch:
slip next stitch with yarn in front,
bring yarn to back, slip stitch back
to left needle, turn work
working wrapped stitches: Short-row turns
for heel turn are concealed by wrapping a stitch at each
turn. To knit a stitch with its wrap on the left side of
the heel turn, insert right needle under front of wrap
and into knit stitch, and knit together. To knit a stitch
with its wrap on the right side of the heel turn, insert
right needle under front of wrap and into knit stitch,
and knit together through the back loops.
RT: Slip 1 st to cable needle, hold in
back; k1; k1 from cable needle.
LT: Slip 1 st to cable needle, hold in
front; k1; k1 from cable needle.
RPT: Slip 1 st to cable needle, hold
in back; k1; p1 from cable needle.
LPT: Slip 1 st to cable needle, hold
in front; p1; k1 from cable needle.
Charts
The charts for this pattern are very large. Each
fits on a letter-sized page.
Click the chart
name below and print the resulting page.
TOE
With US 3 needles, cast on 12 sts on each needle (24
sts total) using Judy’s
Magic Cast On,
excluding the usual knit round. Distribute
stitches as you wish on your needles
of choice.
Instead of the usual first knit round,
change to Toe Chart 1 at once and work
rounds 1 – 12
for all sizes as follows: Round 1:PM
to indicate beginning of round, work
Row 1 of Toe Chart row on 12 sts, place
marker to indicate center of round, knit
to end of round, making sure you knit
the leading loop of the stitches (as
JMCO leaves these loops twisted for some knitters).
Round
2 (increase round): Work Row 2 of Toe Chart 1 to center
of round; k1, M1L, k10, M1R, k1. 28 sts. Round 3 and all odd-numbered rounds: Work Toe
Chart 1 row 3 to center of round, and knit to end of round. Round 4 and all even-number rounds: Work Toe Chart
row 4 to center of round; k1, M1L, knit to one stitch before
end of round, M1R, k1.
Continue in pattern as established until round 13 is complete.
48 sts.
For Small ONLY: Next round: Work next chart row to center
of round, knit to end of round.
Continue in pattern as established until
21 rows of chart are complete. 56 sts.
For sizes M & LONLY:
Work Chart row 14 to center of round;
k1, M1L, knit to one stitch before end of round, M1R,
k1. 50 sts. Next round: Work next chart row to center
of round, knit to end of round.
Continue in pattern as established until
21 rows of chart are complete. 58 sts.
FOOT & GUSSET Note: Last stitch of previous round is first stitch
of this round. Move your markers or rearrange
your stitches as required.
Foot round 1: Work Foot & Gusset Chart row 4 [2, 1]
on first 34 sts of round; p1, k1tbl, k18[20, 20], k1tbl,
p1 to end of round.
Continue in pattern, working Foot & Gusset Chart on
first section of round, and keeping sole sts in pattern
as established until 55[57, 57] rows of the Foot & Gusset
Chart have been completed, finishing after the last stitch
of the final row 55[57, 57] of the chart. Do NOT work the
sole stitches of this final round.
82[86, 86] stitches
total – 58[60, 60] sts on foot, and 24[26, 26] sts
on sole.
HEEL TURN
You will be at the start of the heel
sts, having just worked row 55[57, 57] of the Foot & Gusset
Chart.
Using short rows, shape heel turn, working back and forth
over 22[24, 24] heel sts as follows: Setup row: P1, k1tbl, k18[20, 20], w&t. Row 1 [WS]: P18[20, 20], w&t. Row 2 [RS]: K17[19, 19], w&t. Row 3 [WS]: P16[18, 18], w&t. Row 4 [RS]: K15[17, 17], w&t. Row 5 [WS]: P14[16, 16], w&t. Row 6 [RS]: K13[15, 15], w&t.. Row 7 [WS]: P12[14, 14], w&t Row 8 [RS]: K11[13, 13], w&t Row 9 [WS]: P10[12, 12], w&t
Result: 10[12, 12] central live sts with
5[5, 5] wrapped sts on either side.
Heel to Leg Transition Round:
When working this round, you will work
the wrapped sts together with their wraps as you come
across them. See pattern notes for more information.
K10[12, 12], knit next 5 sts tog with their wraps, work
next 22 sts as per sts 7-28 Foot & Gusset Chart row
20[22,22], knit next 5 sts tog with their wraps and STOP.
You will now be in position towork the
10[12, 12] central, live heel sts.
HEEL FLAP
In this section, you will be working
the heel flap back and forth across central 26[28, 28]
heel sts, and at the same time, decreasing gusset sts. Redistribute
the sts if you wish for ease of working, with the 22
central instep sts on hold, and the remaining 60[64,
64] sts together on the working needle(s).
Change to Heel & Back of Leg Chart for your size.
Start at row 1 on RS, and repeat rows
2 and 3 12[14, 14] times, working the 26[26, 28] heel sts
back and forth, decreasing 1 gusset st at the end of each
row. You
will end with a WS, row 2. Turn.
58[58, 58] sts remain – 22 sts for the instep, and
36 sts for the back of the leg.
Set up for leg
You will now be in position to work final
heel row, with RS facing.
For Small ONLY: Work one more RS Heel & Back
of Leg Chart row 3 including the ssk,
but don’t
turn. Continue working across round: p2,
k2tbl, work 22 front leg sts in established
pattern as per Foot & Gusset chart row 21, k2tbl, p2,
k2tog, work back leg stitches as they appear stopping
before last 6 sts of round. Place marker
to indicate new beginning of the round.
56 sts.
For sizes M & LONLY: Work one more RS Heel & Back of Leg Chart row 3, stopping
before last 6 sts of round. Place marker to indicate new
beginning of the round. 58 sts.
For all sizes: Shift the last 6 sts to
the instep sts.
LEG Leg round: Work first 34[34,34] sts as
per row 22[23, 23] of Foot & Gusset Chart, and work
rem 22[24,24] sts as per row 4 of Heel & Back of
Leg Chart (for the appropriate size).
Continue in pattern as established, repeating
rows 13 to 30 of Foot & Gusset Chart on first 34[34,34]
sts, and repeating rows 4-21 of
Heel & Back of Leg
Chart [revised 8/26/10] on rem 22[24,24]
sts.
Work until leg is about an inch short
of desired length, ending on Row 21 or 30 of Foot & Gusset
chart.
CUFF Cuff round: [K2 tbl, p2, k2 tbl, p1] 4 times, k2 tbl, p2, k2 tbl on front
half of leg; work rem 22 (24, 24) sts of round as per Row 22 of Heel & Back
of Leg Chart.
Marjan Hammink is a knitter/designer/journalist who lives in the
Netherlands with her all-male family – the husband and their
three sons. She’s passionate about designing socks that speak
individuality. Find her on Ravelry as yarnissima.
Marjan thanks her test knitter team: Angela, Anna, Anneli,
Carmen, Cheri, Debby, Jianin, Yasmin – who kept the faith.