Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Wired for Fibre
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Fluidity is a tank top designed to work with the magnificent flow and drape of a pure silk yarn.  It was inspired by the wonderful sea colors of the yarn (which was hand-painted by the model, Katie Grady) and an image of water flowing down a sheet of glass.

Silk is a much misunderstood yarn. It is smooth and relatively heavy, and drops significantly with wear.  Rather than fight this quality, Fluidity gives the yarn its head.  It is worked at a loose gauge and between working and blocking, will drop over 4 inches in length.  See how unusual the gauge is – mostly we are used to seeing more rows than stitches per square inch! 

This also means that while the stitch counts are large in this garment, there’s not as much knitting as you’d expect because of the relatively few rounds you’ll need to work.  The final fabric is wonderfully drapey, and will gently skim your body in a most luxurious manner.

spacer model: Katie Grady spacer photos: Jason Donnelly

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches
Length from underarm to lower edge: 15 inches
Strap length may be customized.

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Wired for Fibre Bette [100% silk; 457yd/418m per 100g skein]; color: Sea Glass; 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] skeins
Note: See Pattern Notes re. gauge and substituting yarn.


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 US #4/3.5mm circular needle; 32 inches for smaller sizes, 40 inches for larger sizes
spacer 1 16- or 24-inch US #0/2mm circular needle
spacer 1 US#2.5/3mm needle, any type (used for binding off edging)

Notions
spacer Stitch markers
spacer Stitch holders
spacer Tapestry needle with sharp point
spacer Crochet hook, close in size to US#2.5/3mm
spacer Waste yarn (crochet cotton recommended)

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GAUGE

36 sts/25 rows = 4" in Lace Pattern using largest needle, AFTER BLOCKING
Important: See Pattern Notes re. blocking technique used for this project.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

To check your gauge, swatch and block as follows:
CO 40 sts.
Setup Row [RS]: K2, work 4 repeats of Lace Pattern, k2.
Continue in pattern, working first and last 2 sts in stockinette st and all other sts in Lace Pattern, until you have worked 42 rows (seven 6-row repeats of Lace Pattern). Loosely BO all sts.
Soak swatch in lukewarm water, then roll in a towel to remove excess moisture.
Hang the swatch by pinning it to a cork board or hanging it from a line – use many pins or pegs to keep the top straight, and don’t stretch it out widthwise.
Thread a spare knitting needle or stitch holder through the lower edge to add a bit of weight , which will help the swatch stretch out properly.
Allow to dry completely before unpinning, then lay flat to measure.
The swatch should have become dramatically longer and narrower than it was before blocking. (It's important to remember this transformation when you're knitting the garment, as it will look very wide and short before blocking!)

ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip them both, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

sk2p: Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2 sts decreased.

Blocking and Yarn Substitution:
This pattern was designed specifically for the silk yarn used, and was blocked to yield an unusual stitch gauge; the stitches are narrower and longer than usual. It is very important to get both the correct stitch gauge AND the correct row gauge for this project; this may be difficult if substituting a yarn that is not silk.

Maintaining Stitch Pattern When Shaping:
Within the lace pattern, each yarnover increase is paired with a decrease (k2tog or ssk). When there are not enough stitches to complete both a yo and its paired decrease, work these stitches in stockinette stitch. This will happen when stitches are decreased, when shaping upper front and back.

Lace Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 9 sts): 
Row/Round 1 [RS]: [K2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk] to end.
Rows/Rounds 2, 4, 6: If working in rounds, k all sts. If working back and forth in rows, these will be WS rows; p all sts.
Row/Round 3 [RS]: [K2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk] to end.
Row/Round 5 [RS]: [K2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk] to end.
Repeat Rows/Rounds 1-6 for Lace Pattern.

Crochet Cast On
Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each ch until the required number of sts have been picked up. Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting live sts picked up.

Instructions for the Cable Cast On can be found here.

DIRECTIONS

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LOWER BODY
Using largest (US #4/3.5mm) needle and cable cast on method, CO 270[306, 342, 378, 414, 450, 486] sts.

Set-up Row [WS]: P135[153, 171, 189, 207, 225, 243], place marker, p135[153, 171, 189, 207, 225, 243].

Next Row [RS]: Work Row 1 of Lace Pattern (9-st pattern repeat will be worked 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] times), place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Continue working in Lace Pattern until Rounds 1-6 of pattern have been worked 14 times, then work Rounds 1-5 once more.

Note: After blocking, lower body will measure 15 inches to underarm. If you wish to lengthen or shorten body, work more or fewer 6-row repeats of lace pattern before proceeding; each repeat will account for approx. 1 inch of length after blocking.

UPPER FRONT
Important: See Pattern Notes re. maintaining stitch pattern when shaping.

Next Round (Round 6 of Lace Pattern): K to last 7[9, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts of round, BO 14[18, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40] sts, removing marker. 256[288, 318, 350, 382, 414, 446] sts.

Next Round (Round 1 of Lace Pattern): Work in pattern to 7[9, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts before marker, BO 14[18, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40] sts, removing marker; work in pattern to end. Two sets of 121[135, 147, 161, 175, 189, 203] sts.

Upper front will now be worked back and forth over last set of sts worked; place remaining set of sts on hold on st holder, waste yarn or spare needle.

Next Row (Row 2 of Lace Pattern) [WS]: P60[67, 73, 80, 87, 94, 101], place marker, p1, place marker, p60[67, 73, 80, 87, 94, 101]. Markers indicate center st of neckline.

Begin Armhole Shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 3[4, 5, 5, 4, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 117[130, 141, 155, 170, 183, 197] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: BO 3[4, 5, 5, 4, 5, 5] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 113[125, 135, 149, 165, 177, 191] sts.

Row 3 [RS]: BO 2[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 110[120, 130, 144, 160, 171, 185] sts.

Row 4 [WS]: BO 2[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 107[115, 125, 139, 155, 165, 179] sts.

Row 5 [RS]: BO 3[4, 4, 5, 3, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 103[110, 120, 133, 151, 159, 173] sts.

Row 6 [WS]: BO 3[4, 4, 5, 3, 5, 5] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 99[105, 115, 127, 147, 153, 167] sts.

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Shape Neckline and Armholes:

Sizes XS, S Only:
Row 1 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 97[103, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: P2tog, p to first marker; join second ball of yarn and BO next st, removing markers; p to last 2 sts, ssp. Two sets of 47[50, -, -, -, -, -] sts, each with ball of yarn attached.

Next Row [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of first section, k2tog; BO first 3 sts of next section, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of first section, ssp; BO 3 sts, p to last 2 sts of second section, ssp.

Repeat these 2 rows 6[7, -, -, -, -, -] times more. 5[2, -, -, -, -, -] sts remain in each section.

For size S, [k2tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section. Proceed to Upper Back.

For size XS, work as follows:
Next Row [RS]: [Ssk, k1, k2tog] for each section.

Next Row[WS]: P1, ssp; p2tog, p1.

Next Row [RS]: [K2tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section. Proceed to Upper Back.

Size M Only:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 110 sts.

Row 2 [WS]: BO 4 sts, p to first marker; join second ball of yarn and BO next st, removing markers; p to last 2 sts, ssp. Two sets of 52 sts, each with ball of yarn attached.

Next Row [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of first section, k2tog; BO first 3 sts of next section, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO 3 sts, p to last 2 sts of second section, ssp.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more. 22 sts in each section.

Next Row [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of first section, k2tog; BO first 2 sts of next section, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO 2 sts, p to last 2 sts of second section, ssp.

Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more. 2 sts in each section.

Next Row [RS]: [K2tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section. Proceed to Upper Back.

Size L Only:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 122 sts.

Row 2 [WS]: BO 4 sts, p to first marker; join second ball of yarn and BO next st, removing markers; p to last 2 sts, ssp. Two sets of 58 sts, each with ball of yarn attached.

Next Row [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of first section, k2tog; BO first 3 sts of next section, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO 3 sts, p to last 2 sts of second section, ssp.
Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more. 4 sts in each section.

Next Row [RS]: [Ssk, k2tog] for each section.

Next Row [WS]: [P2tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section. Proceed to Upper Back.

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: BO -[-, -, -, 4, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. -[-, -, -, 142, 147, 161] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: BO -[-, -, -, 4, 5, 5] sts, p to first marker; join second ball of yarn and BO next st, removing markers; p to last 2 sts, ssp. Two sets of -[-, -, -, 68, 70, 77] sts, each with ball of yarn attached.

Row 3 [RS]: *BO -[-, -, -, 3, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts of section, k2tog; repeat from * for second section. -[-, -, -, 64, 64, 71]

Row 4 [WS]: *BO -[-, -, -, 3, 5, 5] sts, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; repeat from * for second section. -[-, -, -, 60, 58, 65] sts in each section.

Size 3X only, repeat Rows 3 and 4. 53 sts in each section.

Next Row [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of first section, k2tog; BO first 3 sts of next section, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO 3 sts, p to last 2 sts of second section, ssp.
Repeat these 2 rows -[-, -, -, 8, 8, 5] times more. -[-, -, -, 6, 4, 17] sts in each section.

For size 1X, work as follows:
Next Row [RS]: [Ssk, k2, k2tog] for each section.

Next Row [WS]: [P2tog, ssp] for each section.

Next Row [RS]: [K2tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section. Proceed to Upper Back.

For size 2X, work as follows:
Next Row [RS]: [Ssk, k2tog] for each section.

Next Row [WS]: [P2tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section. Proceed to Upper Back.

For size 3X, work as follows:
Next Row [RS]: [Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of section, k2tog] for each section.

Next Row [WS]: [P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp] for each section.

Repeat these 2 rows twice more, then work the first row once more. 3 sts in each section.

Next Row [WS]: [P3tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section. Proceed to Upper Back.

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UPPER BACK
Place held 121[135, 147, 161, 175, 189, 203] sts of upper back on needle and join yarn with WS facing.

Next Row (Row 2 of Lace Pattern) [WS]: P51[58, 64, 71, 78, 85, 92], place marker, 19, place marker, p51[58, 64, 71, 78, 85, 92].

Work Rows 1-6 of armhole shaping as for upper front. 99[105, 115, 127, 147, 153, 167] sts.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Row 7 [RS]: BO -[-, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. -[-, 110, 122, 142, 147, 161] sts.

Row 8 [WS]:  BO -[-, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp. -[-, 105, 117, 137, 141, 155] sts.

Repeat Rows 7-8 -[-, 0, 0, 0, 1, 2] times more. -[-, 105, 117, 137, 129, 131] sts.

Size 1X Only:
Next Row [RS]: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 133 sts.

Next Row [WS]:  BO 3 sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 129 sts.

All Sizes:
Next Row [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts, ssp.

Repeat these 2 rows 0[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] times more. 95[93, 93, 105, 117, 117, 119] sts

Back Neckline:

Sizes XS, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. 93[-, -, -, 115, 115, 117] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: P2tog, p to first marker; join second ball of yarn and BO 19 sts, removing markers; p to last 2 sts, ssp. Two sets of 36[-, -, -, 47, 47, 48] sts, each with ball of yarn attached.

Row 3 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of section, k2tog; BO 8[-, -, -, 12, 12, 12] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Row 4 [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO 8[-, -, -, 12, 12, 12]  sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 25[-, -, -, 32, 32, 33] sts in each section.

Row 5 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of section, k2tog; BO 8[-, -, -, 11, 11, 12] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Row 6 [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO 8[-, -, -, 11, 11, 12] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 14[-, -, -, 18, 18, 18] sts in each section.

Rows 7-8: Work as for Rows 3-4. 3 sts in each section.
Row 9 [RS]: [Sk2p] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section.

Sizes S, M, L Only:
Row 1 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to first marker; join second ball of yarn and BO 19 sts, removing markers; work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. Two sets of -[36, 36, 42, -, -, -] sts, each with ball of yarn attached.

Row 2 [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO -[9, 9, 10, -, -, -] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp.

Row 3 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of section, k2tog; BO -[9, 9, 10, -, -, -] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. -[24, 24, 29, -, -, -] sts in each section.

Row 4 [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO -[8, 8, 11, -, -, -] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp.

Row 5 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts of section, k2tog; BO -[8, 8, 11, -, -, -] sts, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog. -[13, 13, 15, -, -, -] sts in each section.

Row 6 [WS]: P2tog, p to last 2 sts of section, ssp; BO -[8, 8, 10, -, -, -] sts, p to last 2 sts, ssp.

Row 7 [RS]: Ssk, k2tog; BO -[8, 8, 10, -, -, -] sts (1 st remains on right needle), k2tog. 2 sts in each section.

Row 8 [WS]: [P2tog] for each section. Break yarn and draw through remaining st of each section.

EDGING AND STRAPS
Important Note: When picking up sts for edgings as directed below, pick them up at approximately this rate: for every 9-st repeat of lace pattern, pick up and k 9 sts (1 st for each bound off st) over areas that are bound off straight, 10 sts over areas that have a shallow slope, and 11 sts over areas that are steeply sloped. In all cases, it is more important to pick up sts evenly than it is to get the exact number of sts given.

Crochet cast on method is used for straps. Other provisional cast on techniques may be used instead if desired.

Back Edging:
Using smallest (US #0/2mm) needle and with RS facing, pick up and k approx. 61[65, 68, 73, 80, 83, 84]sts along back neckline edge.

K 6 rows, ending with a RS row. BO all sts using mid-sized (US #2.5/3mm) needle.

Front Edging and Straps:
Note: As written, straps will be approx. 8 inches long. If you think you may need more length, work longer crochet chains and pick up more sts when working crochet cast on. Every 8 sts will yield approx. 1 inch of length. See finishing directions below to see how strap length can be adjusted during finishing.

Using waste yarn, work 2 crochet chains approx. 68 ch long.

Using smallest needle, pick up and k 64 sts in back loops of one chain; continuing from these sts and with RS facing, pick up and k approx. 74[80, 86, 90, 100, 104, 104] sts across front neckline edge; continuing from these sts, pick up and k 64 sts in back loops of remaining chain. Do not join; edging is worked back and forth in rows. Approx. 202[208, 214, 218, 228, 232, 232] sts.

K 6 rows, ending with a RS row.
BO all sts using mid-sized needle.

Armhole Edgings and Straps:
Carefully remove waste yarn from strap attached to left armhole and place resulting live sts (approx. 63 sts) on mid-sized needle.
Using smallest needle and with RS facing, pick up and k approx. 92[100, 114, 124, 136, 148, 164] sts along left armhole edge, then k sts of strap. Approx. 155[163, 177, 187, 199, 211, 227] sts. K 6 rows, ending with a RS row.
BO all sts using mid-sized needle.

Carefully remove waste yarn from strap attached to right armhole and place resulting live sts (approx. 63 sts) on mid-sized needle. Using smallest needle and with RS facing, k sts of strap, then pick up and k approx. 92[100, 114, 124, 136, 148, 164] sts along right armhole edge. Approx. 155[163, 177, 187, 199, 211, 227] sts.

Work as for left armhole facing/strap.

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FINISHING
Use waste yarn to baste ends of straps to back of garment, at points where back neckline edging meets armhole edgings.

Fill a bucket with lukewarm water and add a couple of drops of mild shampoo or baby bath soap. Soak garment until it is thoroughly saturated. Rinse several times, adding a couple of drops of fabric conditioner or lavender oil to the final rinse. Remove garment from bucket, place it in a delicates bag or pillow case, and spin it in washing machine to remove excess moisture. Remove garment, hold it by the straps and give it a good flick or two. Hang garment on a padded hanger, pulling and shaping it to even out lower edges. Hang until dry. 

Try on garment, and adjust strap length if necessary. Sew straps in position, hiding any excess length inside garment. Weave in ends.  

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Jennie Pakula has been a fanatical knitter since the age of 9. She lives on the outskirts of Melbourne, Australia, with her husband, 2 early teen kids and 2 naughty cats.

She loves the hour-long commute to her job as a lawyer in the CBD – lots of knitting time. 

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