Coquille shawl: Knitty First Fall 2010

by M.L. Egan

Seasons change quickly on the edge of the Great Plains. A 50-degree day in late September is chilly, in March it feels like freedom. Light wraps are always welcome for snuggling into for extra warmth either way. Initially designed to take advantage of slow striping sock yarn, Coquille was so much fun that other fingering and sock weight yarns got into the act.

The gussets on this wrap, worked side to side, reminded me of a scallop shell. The lacy look is created by using two different size needles, a smaller one suited to the yarn weight, and one about 6 sizes larger. The short rows that create the gussets would be perfect for those venturing into short rows for the first time, since the shaping makes it easy to see what is happening.

This stitch pattern is so obvious, you can tell where you are in the pattern by counting the gussets -- 3 small, 5 or 7 medium, 5 or 7 large, 3 extra large, then back again. (I’m lazy, and prefer projects that don’t require much counting.) Coquille works up quickly, and only requires 400 yards of fingering weight for the small size, and 610 yards for the large. Perfect for gift giving, no matter what climate you live in, or what boreas or zephyrus blow your way.

model: Martha Alvarado, Eleanor Hendricks

photos: Sarah Walker

SIZE
Small [Large]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Wingspan: 58[67] inches
Length at center back: 17[20] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Small shawl
Crystal Palace Mini Mochi [80% merino/20% nylon; 195yd/180m per 50 g skein]; color: #107 Fern Rainbow; 3[4] skeins [shown above]

Large shawl
Swans Island Merino Fingering [100% merino wool; 580yd/530m per 100 g skein]; color: Teal; 1[2] skeins [shown below]

Note: If substituting yarn, small size requires approx. 400y/366m and large size requires approx. 775 y/710 m of fingering weight yarn. Yarn requirements may vary according to gauge obtained during knitting; gauge given is for pattern after blocking.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 3mm circular needle, 24 inches or longer
Note: 3mm needle is between US #2 and US #3.
1 US #9/5.5mm circular needle, 24 inches or longer

Notions
Yarn needle

GAUGE

24 sts = 4” in stockinette st using smaller needle, after blocking
20 sts = 4” in stockinette st using larger needles, after blocking
30 rows = 4” in pattern using both needle sizes as directed, after blocking
Note: Exact gauge is not critical for this pattern. Row gauge over pattern is not measured over short-rowed section.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

W&T (Wrap & Turn): Knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.
If you have worked short rows before, you may be used to working wraps together with wrapped sts on subsequent rows. This is not necessary for this project; the wrapped sts will not detract from the appearance of the piece. (In the shawls shown, wraps have not been worked together with wrapped sts.)

inc1: The increase used for this pattern is the backward loop increase. It is the first increase shown here, referred to as m1.
(This increase is different from the m1 increase used in most Knitty patterns.)

yf: Bring yarn between needles to front of work.

All slipped sts in this pattern are slipped purlwise.

DIRECTIONS
FIRST SECTION
Using smaller needle, CO 3 sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K3.

Row 2 [RS]: [K1, inc 1] twice, k1. 5 sts.

Row 3 [WS]: K5.

Row 4 [RS]: K2, [K1, inc 1] twice, k1. 7 sts.

Row 5 [WS]: K2, [inc 1, k1] four times, yf, sl 1. 11 sts.

Row 6 [RS]: K2, inc 1, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 12 sts.

Row 7 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Rows 8-9: Work as for Rows 6-7. 13 sts.

Row 10 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.

Row 11 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.

Switching to smaller needle for Rows 6-9, work Rows 6-11 twice more. 17 sts.

SECOND SECTION (Small Gussets)
Note: Gusset is shaped by working short rows after Row 2 of section, before proceeding to Row 3. Short rows begin on RS of work.

Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, inc 1, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 18 sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Short Rows:
K9, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K10, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K11, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K10, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K9, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.

Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 19 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.
Rows 7-12: Work as for Rows 1-6, omitting short rows. 21 sts.

Repeat Rows 1-12 twice more. 29 sts.

THIRD SECTION
(Mid-sized Gussets)
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, inc 1, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 30 sts.

Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Short Rows:
K11, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K12, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K13, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K14, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K15, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K14, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K13, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K12, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K11, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.

Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 31 sts.

Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.

Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.

Rows 7-12: Work as for Rows 1-6, omitting short rows. 33 sts.

Repeat Rows 1-12 four[six] times more. 49[57] sts.

FOURTH SECTION (Large Gussets)
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, inc 1, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 50[58] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Short Rows:
K13, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K14, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K15, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K16, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K17, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K18, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K17, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K16, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K15, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K14, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K13, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.

Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 51[59] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.
Rows 7-12: Work as for Rows 1-6, omitting short rows. 53[61] sts.

Repeat Rows 1-12 four[six] times more. 69[85] sts.

FIFTH SECTION (Largest Gussets)
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, inc 1, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 70[86] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Short Rows:
K16, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K17, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K18, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K19, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K20, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K21, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K20, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K19, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K18, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K17, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.
K16, W&T. P to last st, sl 1.

Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 71[87] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.
Rows 7-12: Work as for Rows 1-6, omitting short rows. 73[89] sts.

Repeat Rows 1-12 once. 77[93] sts.

This is the center point of the shawl. You will now begin working decreases on RS rows, instead of increases.

SIXTH SECTION (Final Largest Gusset)
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, k2tog, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 76[92] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Work Short Rows as for Fifth Section.

Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 75[91] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.
Rows 7-12: Work as for Rows 1-6, omitting short rows. 73[89] sts.

SEVENTH SECTION (Large Gussets)
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, k2tog, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 72[88] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Work Short Rows as for Fourth Section.

Repeat Rows 1-12 four[six] times more. 53[61] sts.

EIGHTH SECTION (Mid-sized Gussets)
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, k2tog, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 52[60] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Work Short Rows as for Third Section.

Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 51[59] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.
Rows 7-12: Work as for Rows 1-6, omitting short rows. 49[57] sts.

Repeat Rows 1-12 four[six] times more. 33 sts for both sizes.

NINTH SECTION
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, k2tog, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 32 sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.

Work Short Rows as for Second Section.

Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 31 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.
Rows 7-12: Work as for Rows 1-6, omitting short rows. 29 sts.

Repeat Rows 1-12 twice more. 21 sts for both sizes.

TENTH SECTION
Row 1 [RS]: Using smaller needle, k2, k2tog, k to last st, yf, sl 1. 20 sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K to last st, yf, sl 1.
Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 19 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Using larger needle, k to last st, yf, sl 1.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, p to last st, sl 1.
Repeat Rows 1-6 twice more. 15 sts.

Row 7 [RS]: [K2, k2tog] three times, k1, k2tog. 11 sts.
Row 8 [WS]: K11.
Row 9 [RS]: [K2tog] five times, k1. 6 sts.
Row 10 [WS]: K6.
Row 11 [RS]: [K2tog] three times.
Break yarn, draw through remaining 3 sts, pull tight.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements given, or as desired.
This shawl can be blocked out gently or severely. The small (striped) shawl shown was pinned out into points. The large (blue) shawl was wet blocked with only a few pins, and with the gussets gently pinched into soft pleats. Knitter’s choice!

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Mary Lou Egan lives in St. Paul, MN, teaches at the Yarnery, and has a line of patterns distributed by Yarn-craft. She has a day job in community development, a husband who values his handknits and a horse that does not care in the least.

She blogs here. Ravelry: mlegan