No matter how old I get, how far away I am from my school days, the waning of summer always makes me crave new clothes. And new fall clothes, somehow, are always associated with plaids and tartans. I didn't go to a private school, but I am a child of the 1980s, and I have a very soft spot for tartans.

This pattern is a nice gentle introduction to colorwork - after all, it's really not much more than some horizontal stripes. The vertical stripes are worked with a single strand of the contrasting color that just rests in the back until you need it.

Being slightly perverse, I'm fond of odd-but-related socks, and have provided instructions for getting four different socks of varying degrees of matchiness from 4 skeins of yarn.

SIZE
Womens' S[M, L]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Circumference: 7[7.5, 8] inches
Leg Length: 7 inches
Foot Length: adjustable to fit.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Simply Socks Simply Sock Yarn [80% superwash wool, 20% nylon; 175yd/160m per 50g skein]; 1 skein each color
[A] #735 Lavender
[B] #710 Blue Violet
[C] #372 Tangerine
[D] #535 Wheatgrass
See Pattern Notes about yarn usage.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #1.5/2.5mm double-point needles
OR
1 32 inch long US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle for magic loop method
OR
2 shorter US #1.5/2.5mm circular needles for two-circulars method

Notions
Split ring marker or safety pin
Stitch markers
Stitch holder (optional)
Yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Four skeins will give you four socks of varying "matchiness", as mapped out here.

The vertical accent stripes are positioned differently on the left and right socks.

The colors of the wide horizontal stripes are designated Colors 1 and 2, the colors of the narrow horizontal and vertical accent stripes are Colors 3 and 4.

Orange/green socks [shown above]:
Sock C [on right foot] uses C/Tangerine as Color 1, D/Wheatgrass as Color 2, A/Lavender  as Color 3, and B/Blue Violet as Color 4.
Sock D [on left foot] uses D/Wheatgrass as Color 1, C/Tangerine as Color 2, B/Blue Violet as Color 3 and A/Lavender as Color 4.

Purple socks [shown below]:
Sock A [on right foot] uses A/Lavender as Color 1, B/Blue Violet as Color 2, C/Tangerine as Color 3, and D/Wheatgrass  as Color 4.
Sock B [on left foot] uses B/Blue Violet as Color 1, A/Lavender as Color 2, D/Wheatgrass  as Color 3 and C/Tangerine as Color 4.

Of course, you can just knit two socks using the same color pattern if you really want to! If you do this, I recommend that you still work a left and a right sock.  If you're working the large size, you'll have just enough of the Color 1. If you have particularly long feet, you might wish to buy an additional skein of the Color 1.

Vertical Stripes:
To work the vertical stripes, cut a 24 inch length of yarn for each vertical stripe. To work the vertical stripe stitch, bring the strand up over the main working yarn and knit the stripe stitch, then drop that strand and bring the main working yarn over the vertical stripe yarn to work the next stitch, tugging it lightly to keep it reasonably snug. The vertical stripe strands hang in place on the WS of the work until you need them, and because they're relatively short, they're reasonably easy to untangle when necessary. Use the appropriate color strand to work the vertical stripe stitches, even if you're working a horizontal stripe of that same color. This ensures that the vertical stripes look consistent and 'pop' against the horizontal stripes.

When a strand runs out, tie another one on. Make a knot, leaving yourself 3-4 inch tail of both the new and the old strands, and then undo the knots when you're weaving in ends.

If desired, work the jogless jog at the beginning of each new stripe. This wasn't done for the socks shown; the beginnings of the rounds are positioned on the inside leg, so they are not very visible when worn. 

1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
All Rounds: [K1, p1] to end.

DIRECTIONS

Cuff:
Using Color 2, loosely CO 56[60, 64] stitches. Divide sts evenly between needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Note or mark beginning of round. After the first few rounds have been worked, place split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate beginning of round.

Work 12 rounds in 1x1 Rib.

Join ball of Color 1, and prepare 2 strands each of Colors 3 & 4 for vertical stripes (see Pattern Notes re. vertical stripes).

Leg:
Rounds 1-8: [K7 Color 1, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 1, k1 Color 4, k13(15, 17) Color 1] twice.
Do not cut Color 1; join ball of Color 3.

Rounds 9-10: [K7 Color 3, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 3, k1 Color 4, k13(15, 17) Color 3] twice. Cut Color 3.

Rounds 11-18: Work as for Rounds 1-8. Cut Color 1 and join ball of Color 2.

Rounds 19-22: [K7 Color 2, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 2, k1 Color 4, k13(15, 17) Color 2] twice.
Do not cut Color 2; join ball of Color 4.

Rounds 23-24: [K7 Color 4, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 4, k1 Color 4, k13(15, 17) Color 4] twice. Cut Color 4.

Rounds 25-28: Work as for Rounds 19-22.

Work these 28 rounds once more, then works Rounds 1-10 again.

Next Round: Work 28[30, 32] sts as per Round 11. Do not complete round; heel flap is worked back and forth over these sts. Slip remaining 28[30, 32] sts of round to single needle or st holder for instep. Turn work so that WS is facing.

Heel Flap:
Continuing in color pattern as established, work as follows:
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p27[29, 31] sts in pattern
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k27[29, 31] sts in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 9[10, 11] times more, then work Row 1 once more.
Cut strands of Colors 3 & 4 used on the heel flap/back of leg, leaving a tail approx. 4 inches long. Leave strands attached to instep sts; these will be used while working the gusset, foot and toe.

Turn Heel
Using Color 1, work as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: K19[20, 21], ssk. Turn work.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p10[10, 10], p2tog. Turn work.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k10[10, 10], ssk. Turn work.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, p10[10, 10], p2tog. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 3-4 6[7, 8] times more, until all heel stitches have been worked. 12 stitches remain, and RS is facing.

Continuing with Color 1, with RS facing, k 12 sts of heel; continuing from these sts, pick up and k 14[15, 16] stitches along adjacent side edge of heel flap, place marker; k 28[30, 32] held sts of instep in pattern, place marker; pick up and k 14[15, 16] stitches along remaining side edge of the heel flap; k first 6 sts of heel. 68[72, 76] sts.

This point (center of heel) will now be beginning of round. Move split ring marker or safety pin to this point.

Continuing in color pattern as established and maintaining vertical accent stripes on top of foot, shape gusset as follows:

Round 1: K6, k14[15, 16] tbl; k instep stitches in pattern (all sts to second marker); k14[15, 16] tbl; k6.

Round 2: K to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1; k in pattern to next marker; k1, ssk, k to end of round.

Round 3: K all sts in pattern.
Repeat the Rounds 2-3 five times more. 56[60, 64] sts.

Foot:
Continue in pattern until foot measures 2 inches less than full foot length from back of heel to tip of toe.

Toe:
Toe is worked in stripe pattern as established. When shaping toe, once decreases reach a vertical stripe, cut the strand being used for that stripe, leaving a tail approx. 4 inches long.

Toe Decrease Round: [K to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk] twice, k to end of round. 52[56, 60] sts.
Work 3 rounds even.

Work Toe Decrease Round. K 2 rounds.
Repeat these 3 rounds once more. 44[48, 52] sts.

Work Toe Decrease Round. K 1 round.
Repeat these 2 rounds twice more. 32[36, 40] sts.

Work Toe Decrease Round 6[7, 8] times more. 8 sts.

Cut yarn, leaving a tail approx. 8 inches long. Using yarn needle, draw tail through remaining sts and pull tight to close.

Leg:
Rounds 1-8: [K13(15, 17) Color 1, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 1, k1 Color 4, k7 Color 1] twice.
Do not cut Color 1; join ball of Color 3.

Rounds 9-10: [K13(15, 17) Color 3, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 3, k1 Color 4, k7 Color 3] twice. Cut Color 3.

Rounds 11-18: Work as for Rounds 1-8. Cut Color 1 and join ball of Color 2

Rounds 19-22: [K13(15, 17) Color 2, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 2, k1 Color 4, k7 Color 2] twice. 
Do not cut Color 2; join ball of Color 4.

Rounds 23-24: [K13(15, 17) Color 4, k1 Color 3, k6 Color 4, k1 Color 4, k7 Color 4] twice. Cut Color 4.

Rounds 25-28: Work as for Rounds 19-22.

Work these 28 rounds once more, and then works Rounds 1-10 again.

Next Round: Work 28[30, 32] sts as per Round 11, then slip these sts to single needle or st holder for instep; k in pattern to end of round. Heel flap is worked back and forth over last 28[30, 32] sts worked. Turn work so that WS is facing.

Continue as for right sock.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block. You don't need any special tools - just get the socks wet, roll them in a towel to squeeze the water out, and put them on. Take them off again immediately, and hang them to dry.

Kate is Knitty's technical editor for socks. She's endlessly entertained by novel ways of making socks not match.

You can see more of her work at wisehildaknits.com,  and you can contact her on Ravelry as wisehilda.