by Hunter Hammersen

The array of new sock constructions available today is marvelous.  It's wonderful that knitters are turning their creativity loose on something as classic and functional as the humble sock. But every now and then, it's fun to return to the basic form. 

This construction of this sock is quite simple.  It is knit top down with a heel flap, traditional gussets, and basic toe. But this simple form allows the intricate patterning to shine. The front and back of the sock feature an elaborate criss cross pattern (it's easier than it looks, and all done without a cable needle). The front and back are separated by a charming bit of fancy ribbing which carries on down the side of the foot and the heel.  The combination is lovely and reminds me of intricate tile work. 

If you want to make a smashing version of a classic sock, this just might be the pattern for you. 

SIZE
3 sizes to fit foot circumference of 7[8.5, 10] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Circumference: 6.5[8, 9.5] inches unstretched
Foot Length: variable, to fit

MATERIALS
Yarn

Orange Socks
Wollmeise Twin [80% superwash merino, 20% nylon; 510 yd per 150g skein]; color: Campari Piccolo; 1 skein

Gray Socks
Handwerks Sock Plus 8 [100% superwash merino; 395 yd per 120g skein]; color: Smoke; 1 skein

Blue Socks
Barking Dog Yarns Sirius [100% merino; 400 yd per 100 g skein]; color: Iroquois Moon; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #1/2.25mm dpns
OR
1 32-inch or longer US #1/2.25mm circular needle for magic loop
OR
2 24-inch US #1/2.25mm circular needles for two circulars method

Notions
2 stitch markers
tapestry needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Left Twist: Bring your right needle tip behind the first stitch on your left needle. Knit the second stitch through the back loop, do not slip it off the needle. Knit the first stitch as usual. Slip both stitches off the needle.

Right Twist: Bring your right needle tip in front of the first stitch on your left needle. Knit the second stitch as usual, do not slip it off the needle. Knit the first stitch through the back loop. Slip both stitches off the needle.

DIRECTIONS

Cuff round: Work Cuff chart twice around, working 6-stitch repeat as indicated.

Work as established until 5 repeats of the Cuff Chart are complete.

Leg round: Work Main Chart twice around, working 6-stitch repeat as indicated.

Work the Main Chart until the leg reaches the desired length. Stop after completing row 8 of the Main Chart.

Heel Flap
The heel flap is worked on the second half of the round.

Heel flap setup row: Work across setup row of Heel flap chart, including the 2 increases and the decrease. 27[33, 39] sts.

Work Heel flap chart rows 1 and 2 12[15, 18] times, and work row 1 once more. WS will be facing.

Heel Turn
Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, p15[17, 21], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k6[4, 6], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 3 [WS]: Sl1, p7[5, 7], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4 [RS]: Sl1, k8[6, 8], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 5 [WS]: Sl1, p9[7, 9], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 6 [RS]: Sl1, k10[8, 10], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 7 [WS]: Sl1, p11[9, 11], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 8 [RS]: Sl1, k12[10, 12], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 9 [WS]: Sl1, p13[11, 13], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 10 [RS]: Sl1, k14[12, 14], ssk, k1, turn.
Size Small: 17 sts rem, proceed to Gusset and Foot.

For Medium and Large ONLY:
Row 11 [WS]: Sl1, p- -[13, 15] , p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 12 [RS]: Sl1, k- -[14, 16], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 13 [WS]: Sl1, p- -[15, 17], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 14 [RS]: Sl1, k--[16, 18], k2tog, k1.
Size Medium: 19 sts rem, proceed to Gusset and Foot.

For Large ONLY:
Row 14 [WS]: Sl1, p- -[- -, 19], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 15 [RS]: Sl1, k- -[- -, 20], ssk, k1, turn. 23 sts rem.

Gusset and Foot
Gusset Setup Round: Pick up and knit 14[17, 20] sts along the heel flap, place first marker. Work across the top of the foot following row 9 of the Main Chart. Place second marker, pick up and knit 14[17, 20] sts along the heel flap, k9[10, 12].

The round now begins in the middle of the bottom of the foot. From now on, slip markers whenever you come to them. 71[85, 101] sts total.

Rearrange stitches so that all instep sts are together, if you wish.

Gusset Round 1: K until 2 sts remain before first marker, k2tog. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart to second marker. Ssk, k to end of round.

Gusset Round 2: K to first marker. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart to second marker. K to end of round.

Repeat the last two rounds 8[9, 11] more times, until 53[65, 77] sts remain.

Final decrease round: K until 2 sts remain before first marker, k2tog. Work across the top of the foot following the next row of the Main Chart to second marker. K to end of round. 1 sts decreased.  52[64, 76] sts remain.

Work even until sock is 2 inches shorter than desired length. Finish after working row 3 or row 9 of the Main Chart.

Toe
Toe round 1: K all sts.
Toe round 2: K until 3 sts remain before first marker, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, k until 3 sts remain before second marker, k2tog, k1. K1, ssk, k to end of round.

Repeat these 2 rounds 3[6, 9] more times, 36 sts remain. Work the Toe round 2 5 more times, 16 sts remain. K to marker.

FINISHING
Graft toes (removing markers as you do). Weave in ends. Block if desired.

Hunter Hammersen is a knitter and perpetual student living in Cleveland, Ohio. She blogs here.

Her first book, Silk Road Socks: 14 Patterns Inspired by Oriental Rugs came out in 2011. Find out more about it here.