Ancient trees and wrought iron trellis work. Climbing rose buds
twining sedately skyward burst into sudden audacious flower.
Rhodion begins with a provisional cast on, and then grows in
both directions. The trellis work is formed by a cable lace stitch
with patterning every row. The wrong side patterning in the cable
lace is unchanging, making this a good introduction to every
row lacework.
Cable crossings in lace weight are a challenge, particularly
since lacework is incorporated into the cable crossing itself.
Instructions are given for working this stitch both with and
without a cable needle.
When turning to work the second side, set up rows incorporate
yarn overs and decreases so that the trellis work flows seamlessly
the length of the stole.
model: Elizabeth
Freeman photos: Jenne
Freeman-Flores, Elizabeth Freeman
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Length: 84 inches Width: 26 inches
Note: Measurements given for shawl after blocking.
MATERIALS
Yarn Cascade
Yarns Alpaca Lace [100% Baby Alpaca;
437yd/400m per 50g skein]; color: #1426
Chianti Heather; 3 skeins Note: Edging chart pattern has stitch
distortion which requires heavy blocking to lie flat. If substituting
yarn, choose a yarn that will block well (like alpaca or wool).
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 2
US #3/3.25mm circular needles, 32 inches
or longer Note: The cast on technique used for this shawl will work more easily if
the two needles used are different in color or type.
20 sts/21 rows = 4" in
pattern stitch, following swatch chart
Note: The cable lace stitch tends to stretch out of shape if worked
at a loose gauge; try a needle one size smaller than you would
usually use for lace knitting with the yarn you choose.
Gauge is measured over Swatch Chart. Correct gauge is not
essential for this project unless you are working with a limited
quantity of yarn. However, if you do wish to swatch and measure
your gauge before beginning, use the Swatch Chart provided
below. Block swatch, allow to dry, unpin and allow to relax
before measuring gauge.
A Second Side Set-up Chart is provided for the swatch,
so that swatch can be used to practice the spiral loop cast
on and setting up the second side. To do this, work spiral
wrap cast on for 22 stitches (wrap approx. 30 times – see
pattern notes). Work Rows 1-8 of Swatch Chart
as many times as desired, then bind off loosely. Join yarn
to sts on spare needle with WS facing. Work Rows 1-3 of set-up
chart for swatch, then work Rows 1-8 of Swatch Chart as desired.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Symmetry: Lace cable stitch pattern
is not symmetrical. Do not reverse chart. Work chart as given
for all pattern repeats, and on both sides of stole.
Estonian Stitches:
This shawl was inspired by stitches from
Pitsilised Koekirjad, an Estonian stitch dictionary.
For an excellent description of Estonian
lace stitches, see this
site.
For more examples of the beautiful stitches
originating in Estonia, take a look at the Estonian
Lace Study as well as this
site.
Sssk: Slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle.
Insert tip of left needle into fronts of these 3 sts from left
to right, and knit them together.
S2KP2: Slip next 2 sts together, knitwise, as if to work a k2tog.
Knit next st through back loop, then pass both slipped sts over
st just knit. This forms a centered double decrease.
Nupp: On RS row, k next st without dropping st from left needle,
yo, [k same st again without dropping from left needle, yo] twice,
k same st again and drop st from left needle. 1 st increased
to 7 sts. On following WS row, purl these 7 sts together. 7 sts
decreased to 1 st.
Star Stitches: 3-into-3 star: K3tog
without dropping sts from left needle;
yo, k same 3 sts together again and
drop from left needle. Number of sts
has not changed.
3-into-5 star: K3tog without dropping sts from
left needle, yo, k same 3 sts together again without dropping
from left needle, yo, k same 3 sts together again and drop from
left needle. 3 sts increased to 5 sts.
3-into-7 star: K3tog without dropping sts from
left needle, yo, [k same 3 sts together again without dropping
from left needle, yo] twice, k same 3 sts together again and
drop from left needle. 3 sts increased to 7 sts.
3-into-9 star: K3tog
without dropping sts from left needle,
yo, [k same 3 sts together again without
dropping from left needle, yo] three
times, k same 3 sts together again
and drop from left needle. 3 sts increased
to 9 sts.
Lace Cable Stitches:
Lace cable with single decrease (5 sts
decreased to 4 sts): Worked with a cable needle:
Sl next 3 sts to cable needle and hold
to back of work; k2tog from left needle, yo, [k2tog, k1] from
cable needle. Worked without a cable needle:
Bring yarn between needles to front of
work. (Because this is worked after a yarnover, the yarn will
be making a full 360 degree wrap of right needle.)
Sl 3 sts purlwise
to right needle, then bring yarn between
needles to back of work. Yarn will form a bar across fronts of
slipped sts.
Work
k2tog over next 2 sts on left needle. Bring yarn between needles
to front of work.
Reach
tip of left needle around back of work and insert into 3 slipped
sts, skipping the k2tog just worked.
Use left
thumb and index finger to pinch bases
of last 4 sts on right needle, stabilizing
them. Pull tip of right needle out of
these 4 stitches. The 3 slipped sts will now be on left needle;
the k2tog will be floating free in front of the left needle.
Quickly slip tip of right needle back into the
k2tog.
Bring yarn over right needle to back
of work (forming a yo), [k2tog, k1] from
left needle.
Lace cable crossing is complete.
Lace cable with double decrease (6 sts decreased to 4 sts): Worked with a cable needle:
Sl next 3 sts to cable needle and hold
to back of work; S2KP2 from left needle, yo, [k2tog, k1] from
cable needle. Worked without a cable needle:
Bring yarn between needles to front of
work. (Because this is worked after a yarnover, the yarn will
be making a full 360 degree wrap of right needle.) Sl 3 sts purlwise
to right needle, then bring yarn between needles to back of work.
Yarn will form a bar across fronts of slipped sts.
Work S2KP2 over next 3 sts on left needle.
Bring yarn between needles to front of work.
Reach tip of left needle around back
of work and insert into 3 slipped sts, skipping the S2KP2 just
worked. Use left thumb and index finger to pinch bases of last
4 sts on right needle, stabilizing them. Pull tip of right needle
out of these 4 stitches. The 3 slipped sts will now be on left
needle; the S2KP2 will be floating free in front of the left
needle. Quickly slip tip of right needle back into the S2KP2.
Bring yarn over right needle to back
of work (forming a yo), [k2tog, k1] from left needle. Lace cable
crossing is complete.
Lace cable without decrease (worked over 4 sts): Note: This cable twist only appears in
the Side 2 Set-up Chart. Worked with a cable needle:
Sl next 2 sts to cable needle and hold
to back of work; k2tog from left needle, yo, k2 from cable needle. Worked without a cable needle:
Bring yarn between needles to front of
work. (Because this is worked after a yarnover, the yarn will
be making a full 360 degree wrap of right needle.) Sl 2 sts purlwise
to right needle, then bring yarn between needles to back of work.
Yarn will form a bar across fronts of slipped sts.
K next 2 sts on left needle. Bring yarn
between needles to front of work.
Reach tip of left needle around back
of work and insert into 2 slipped sts, skipping the k2tog just
worked. Use left thumb and index finger to pinch bases of last
3 sts on right needle, stabilizing them. Pull tip of right needle
out of these 3 stitches. The 2 slipped sts will now be on left
needle; the k2tog will be floating free in front of the left
needle. Quickly slip tip of right needle back into the k2tog.
Bring yarn over right needle to back
of work (forming a yo), k2 from left needle. Lace cable crossing
is complete.
Turkish Cast On:
Because the
Cable Lace pattern is lace patterned
every row, a seamless transition between
the two sides requires a single row
provisional cast on. A two row provisional
cast on such as Judy’s Magic
Cast On will leave a visible seam in
the lace pattern.
The Turkish cast on is recommended
for this project. The Turkish cast
on holds the provisional stitches on
a spare circular needle so they will
not have to be picked up later. The
provisional stitches will be correctly
mounted, and will not need to be untwisted.
Also, the Turkish cast on does
not require careful counting. As long
as more wraps are made than are required
by the first row, the extra wraps can
be dropped later. The main disadvantage
of the Turkish cast on is that
the first row is fiddly, and must be
worked without mistakes.
The Figure Eight cast on will also work,
but the stitches will need to be remounted
while working the first setup row of
the second side. Other possibilities
for a single row provisional cast on
include the Crochet Cast On and the Looping
Provisional Cast On (see The
Knitter's Handbook by Montse Stanley).
Hold two circular needles parallel, with the working needle
on the top, and the spare needle on the bottom. Make a slip knot
approximately 8 inches from end of yarn, and place on working
needle. With points of needles facing you, wrap yarn counter
clockwise around both needles, wrapping several times more than
the number of sts needed. Try to keep all wraps on the needles,
rather than pushing them onto the cables (especially when working
with a very lightweight yarn).
Turn working needle so that it is in position for the first
row to be worked. Wrap yarn once around working needle only – there
will now be one more st on working needle than on spare needle.
Pull tip of spare needle through sts so that both tips are hanging
down, with all sts resting on cable. Wraps will now be loose
on working needle; hold carefully in place so they do not slide
off.
When
working Row 1, slip first st purlwise with yarn held to back
of work. (On all following rows, slip first st with yarn held
to front of work). Work first row gently, to avoid distorting
wraps.
Modifying the size:
This pattern is modular. The length can
be varied by changing the number of repeats of the Body Chart.
The width can be varied by working more or fewer repeats of
the outlined pattern repeat in each chart. Add or subtract
37 from the number of cast on sts for each pattern repeat you
want to add or remove.
Information about blocking lace can be found here.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very large.
Each fits on a letter-sized page.
Click below and print each resulting
page.
FIRST SIDE
Using Turkish cast on, CO 133 sts (wrap
yarn approx. 150 times).
Work Row 1 of Body Chart, slipping first
st with yarn held to back of work (for first row only) and working
outlined pattern repeat three times. 157 sts on needle when Row
1 is complete. (After completing this row, remaining wraps and
slip knot from CO can be dropped from needles.)
Continue following Body Chart until you have worked Rows 1-16
a total of 13 times. 133 sts on needle when Row 16 is complete.
Work Rows 1-22 of Transition Chart. 133 sts.
Work Rows 1-24 of Edging Chart. 143 sts.
BO Row [RS]: Using two strands of yarn
held together, p2, *sl both sts back to left needle and p2tog,
p1; repeat from * to last st, sl both sts back to left needle
and p2tog. Break yarn and draw through last st.
SECOND SIDE Note: It is a good idea to place a lifeline in the
CO row before beginning the second side! Thread a piece of smooth,
lightweight waste yarn or unwaxed dental floss through all sts
on spare needle; be sure not to catch lifeline when working first
row.
Join yarn to sts on spare needle with WS facing.
Work Rows 1-3
of Second Side Set-up Chart. When working first row, note that
groups of stitches lying directly below the double decreases
and 3-into-7 stars from Row 1 of first side will be pressed tightly
together, and are easy to mistake for single stitches.
Work through charts and bind off as for first side.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Block shawl using technique described in linked article (see pattern notes).
Run smooth string or blocking wires along length of selvedges. Pin out
points at tip of each petal in blossoms at ends of shawl. The shawl will
block to a rectangle with slightly flared ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Elizabeth Freeman counts trees and crunches numbers for a living,
and has been known to bring her lace knitting along on wilderness
backpacking trip.
