by Nell Ziroli

Top down techniques of sweater construction have always been a favorite - try it on as you work - feel confident that it fits and fits you well.

This versatile piece features a self collar in a simple, classic, reversible twisted rib. The rib continues down the front border and in the raglan increase. The garment is designed to end at the top of the hip, but can easily be lengthened. The stockinette body has overlapping front bands, a slight swing shaping, and can be worn loose and straight or wrapped with
a shawl pin or a thin belt.

Short rows are worked at the hem before the band to taper the hem a bit, which is a good look for every body type. The sleeves are also slightly tapered and end with a deep portion of the reversible twisted rib. You can wear them
down or cuff them.

Chickadee from Quince & Co is a color saturated, springy plied yarn that holds its shape and pops the stitches, all with a good bit of snap.

SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
(shown in size M with 4 inches ease)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 28 [32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Quince & Co Chickadee [100% wool; 181yd/166m per 50g skein]; color: Sabine; 7 [8,
8, 9, 9, 10, 10] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
24 and 32-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needles
16, 24 and 32-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needles
one set US #5/3.75mm DPNs

Notions
stitch markers
yarn needle
smooth waste yarn or extra cables to hold sleeve stitches

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

DIRECTIONS
Collar
With US #4/3.5mm 24-inch needle, cast on 140[144, 160, 172, 180, 204, 216] sts.

If you are using a provisional cast on and you object to the bumpy side being the RS
work optional setup row as follows:

Optional setup row [WS]: K1, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, p2, *k2, p2, rep from * to final st, k1.

Row 2 [WS]: K1, *twist, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, twist, k1.

Row 3 [RS]: K1, p2, *twist, p2, rep from * to final st, k1.

Row 4 [WS]: K1, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Continue to work Rows 1-4 for 6[6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches or to desired length/depth of collar, ending with Row 4.

Note: At this point the RS is renamed the WS.

Yoke
Change to US #5 needles.

Establish yoke pattern, creating the placement of the raglan increases.

Note: on the setup row there is an increase followed by 2 markers. You will move the markers apart on the next row.

Setup row [WS]: K1, (p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, p2, kfb, pm, pm, k1, p2, k1, pm, p12[12, 12, 12, 12, 16, 16] pm, k1, p2, k1, pm, p28[32, 40, 44, 44, 52, 56], pm, k1, p2, k1, pm, p12[12, 12, 12, 12, 16, 16], pm, k1, p2, kfb, pm, pm, k1, p2, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 142[146, 162, 174, 182, 206, 218] sts. 2 sts increased.

Row 1 [RS]: (left front band) K1, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, twist, p1, sl m; (left front) remove next marker, k1, M1R, replace marker, p1, twist, p1, sl m; (left shoulder) M1L, k12[12, 12, 12, 12, 16, 16], M1R, sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m; (back) M1L, k28[32, 40, 44, 44, 52, 56], M1R, sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m; (right shoulder) M1L, k12[12, 12, 12, 12, 16, 16], M1R, sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m, remove next marker; (right front) M1L, k1, replace marker; (right front band) p1, twist, (p2, twist) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 150[154, 170, 182, 190, 214, 226] sts. 8 sts increased.

Row 3 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k2, p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1, k2, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 more times; k to next marker, sl m, p1, k2, (p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 158[162, 178, 190, 198, 222, 234] sts. 8 sts increased.

Row 4 [WS]: K1, (p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, p2, k1, sl m; *p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, rep from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13] times, k1.

Row 5 [RS]: K1, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, twist, p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 times; k to next marker, sl m, p1, twist, (p2, twist) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 166[170, 186, 198, 206, 230, 242] sts. 8 sts increased.

Row 6 [WS]: K1, (p2, twist) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, p2, k1, sl m, *p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, rep from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1.

Rep Rows 3-6 8[10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16] more times for yoke of cardigan changing to longer needle length when needed. 128[160, 176, 192, 224, 240, 256] raglan sts increased.

AT THE SAME TIME:
Make an increase at the edge of the front border on RS every 20 rows as follows (Note: for XS size work increase row on rows 16 and 36):
Front border increase row [RS]: Work in pattern as established to first marker, sl m, kfb, work to 2 sts before the last marker, kfb, k1, sl m, work to end of row. 2 sts increased.

Note: The increase row should be worked 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times within the raglan increase section before the sleeve stitches are put on hold. 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6] sts increased between front band and front section.

298[334, 366, 394, 434, 476, 504] sts in total, which includes the 144[176, 192, 208, 240, 256, 272] raglan sts increased.

Note: At this point, work should measure 5.25[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7.5, 8, 8.5] inches from back neck and there should be 66[78, 90, 98, 106, 118, 126] back sts between the markers.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k2, p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1, k2, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 more times; k to next marker, sl m, p1, k2, (p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 306[342, 374, 402, 442, 484, 512] sts. 8 sts increased.

Row 2 [WS]: K1, (p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, p2, k1, sl m; *p to next marker, M1L-p, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, M1R-p, rep from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 314[350, 382, 410, 450, 492, 520] sts. 8 sts increased.

Row 3 [RS]: K1, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, twist, p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 times; k to next marker, sl m, p1, twist, (p2, twist) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 322[358, 390, 418, 458, 500, 528] sts. 8 sts increased.

Size XS only:
Row 4 [WS]: K1, (p2, twist) 8 times, p2, k1, sl m, *p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, rep from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, (twist, p2) 8 times, k1.

Row 5 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) 8 times, k2, p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1, k2, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 more times; k to next marker, sl m, p1, k2, (p2, k2) 8 times, k1. 330 sts. 8 sts increased.

Sizes L[1X, 2X, 3X] only:
Row 4 [WS]: K1, (p2, twist) 10[11, 12, 13] times, p2, k1, sl m, *p to next marker, M1L-p, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, M1R-p, rep from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, (twist, p2) 10[11, 12, 13] times, k1. 426[466, 508, 536] sts. 8 sts increased.

Row 5 [RS]: Repeat Row 1. 434[474, 516, 544] sts. 8 sts increased.

Separate for sleeves:
At this point you should have 58[64, 68, 76, 84, 92, 96] sts between the markers for each sleeve.

Next row [WS]: Work front band and front section, remove raglan marker and work 4 st raglan twist in pattern as established, *remove marker, slip next 58[64, 68, 76, 84, 92, 96] sts to waste yarn for sleeve; CO 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] underarm sts, pm, CO 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] underarm sts, remove marker*; work raglan twist, work across back and raglan twist as established to second marker and repeat from * to *; work in pattern as set to end. 230[246, 274, 302, 330, 356, 380] sts remain around body.

Note: Place a marker in the fabric of cast on stitches as well as on the needle, to assist with pick up for sleeve. Body
Continuing to work the front borders in twisted rib and body in stockinette as established, make increases at the sides and front border edge as follows:

Front border increase row [RS]: Work in pattern as established to first marker, sl m, kfb, work to 2 sts before the last marker, kfb, k1, sl m, work to end of row. 2 sts increased.

Side increase row [RS]: *Work to 3 stitches before side marker, M1R, k3, sl m, k3, M1L; rep from * one more time; work to end of row. 4 sts increased.

Work Front border increase row on the RS every 20 rows 4 times. 8 sts increased.

AT THE SAME TIME: Work Side increase row on the RS every 1.5 inches 5 times.

You will have 258[274, 302, 330, 358, 384, 408] total body stitches, 190[206, 226, 246, 266, 284, 300] of which are in stockinette between the front bands.

Work even until piece measures 6.5[6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 8] inches from underarm or 3 inches less than desired finished length, ending with the front bands worked in Row 4 of Twisted rib pattern.

Work short rows as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern as established to second side marker,w&t.
Row 2 [WS]: P to other side marker, w&t.
Row 3 [RS]: K to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Row 4 [WS]: P to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Row 5 [RS]: K to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Row 6 [WS]: P to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts before previous wrap, w&t.
Row 7 [RS]: Work in pattern as established to end of row.
Row 8 [WS]: Change back to US #4 needle and increase 10[14, 18, 22, 26, 28, 32] sts evenly across the stockinette section only. 268[288, 320, 352, 384, 412, 440] sts.

Rep Rows 1-4 until hem measures 3 inches.
BO loosely in pattern on Row 1.

SLEEVES (work 2 the same)
Using US #5 16-inch needle, with RS facing and starting at underarm marker, pick up and knit 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] sts from CO edge; slip 58[64, 68, 76, 84, 92, 96] held from waste yarn to needle and knit across them; pick up and knit 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] cast on stitches, pm. 66[72, 78, 86, 96, 104, 110] sts.

Work in stockinette in the round for 3 inches.

Next rnd: K2, skp, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 64[70, 76, 84, 94, 102, 108] sts. 2 sts decreased.

Continue to work in the round, decreasing every 1.5 inches, 4[5, 4, 4, 5, 5, 4] times more. Change to DPNs when needed. 56[60, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100] sts. 8[10, 8, 8, 10, 10, 8] sts decreased.

When sleeve measures 11 inches (or 5 inches less than desired length) begin twisted rib cuff. Do not change to smaller needle.

Rnds 1 & 2: (K2, p2) around.
Rnd 3: (Twist, p2) around.
Rnd 4: (K2, purl twist) around.

Rep Rnds 1-4 until cuff measures 5 inches ending with Rnd 1.

BO all sts in pattern.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends and block.

Nell Ziroli lives in Atlanta in a little house on a hill with her youngest daughter, Haley. She comes from a family of knitters and otherwise crafty people. Nell has been knitting, teaching and designing for as long as she can remember.

You can see some of her designs on her blog or on Ravelry.