by Yavanna Reynolds

The inspiration for these socks comes from junk food fiction, which I devour in copious amounts on a regular basis (yum!). One of my current favorite urban fantasy characters is a 5,000 yr old demon named, Algaliarept, from Kim Harrisons' Hollows Series. Rachel Morgan, a bounty hunter witch meets him one day while trying to borrow the wrong spell book from the forbidden section of the university library. Al's a tricky devil, and just like him, these socks have more than a few surprises.

Designed to be knit in either sport or fingering weight yarn in 4 different sizes, these socks also feature a patterned flap-style heel with a hidden decrease panel and a ribbed gusset and arch on a shaped sole for a comfortably tailored fit. The unique all-over slip-stitch pattern looks impressive and intimidating (much like the demon himself), but is really simple to make and creates a wave in the body of the sock as it is worked, resembling curling smoke, or flames licking their way up the foot and leg. Just like Al, the charm to these devilish socks is in the details.

SIZE
At lighter gauge: S[M,L,XL] [shorter sock on left]
At heavier gauge: Adult S[M, L, XL]

Note: this pattern can be worked at two different gauges – see FINISHED MEASUREMENTS below for detailed sizing. 

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
At Lighter Gauge:
Cuff Circumference: 4.66 [5.85, 7, 8.25] inches relaxed and 8 [10, 12, 14,] inches at maximum stretch
Foot Circumference: approximately 5 [6, 7, 8.5] inches when relaxed 7[8.5, 10.25, 12] inches at maximum stretch
Leg Length: 6.25 inches
Foot Length: adjustable to fit. Minimum length is 7.5 inches (US children's size 13, Euro size 31)

At Heavier Gauge:
Cuff Circumference: 5.5 [7, 8.5, 10] inches relaxed and 8 [10, 12, 14] inches at maximum stretch
Foot Circumference: approximately 5.66[7, 8.5, 10] inches when relaxed 8[10.5, 12.25, 14.25] inches at maximum stretch
Leg Length: 7.5 inches
Foot Length: adjustable to fit. Minimum length is 7.5 inches (US children's size 13, Euro size 31)

MATERIALS
Yarn
Lighter Gauge:
Malabrigo, Sock [100% Superwash Merino Wool; 440yd per 100g skein]; color: #850 Archangel; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #1/2.25mm needles for working in the round

Heavier Gauge:
A Verb for Keeping Warm, Annapurna [80% Superwash Merino, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon; 385 yards per 115g skein]; color: Taboo; 1 [1, 1, 2] skeins
Note: Largest size needs only 10 g of the second skein. Shortening the leg should allow you to work even the largest size with just one skein. To shorten the leg, simply work 1.5 repeats of the chart instead of 2.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1.5/2.5mm needles for working in the round

Notions
cable needle (optional)
stitch markers
tapestry needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Editor's note: Read the stitch descriptions very carefully! You're doing some unusual (but very cool) things with some of these stitches.

Kfb: Knit into the front of the stitch, the back of the stitch. 1 st increased.

Kfbf: Knit into the front of the stitch, the back of the stitch, and then the front of the stitch one more time. 2 sts increased.

K3tog: Knit 3 sts together

SSSK: Slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time. Working into the front of these three sts, knit all three sts together.

K1W3: Knit 1 Wrap 3: Knit st then wrap yarn around the needle 3 times to create a triple yarn over.

Drop St: Drop yarnover st to front of the work, holding it on a cable needle or removable stitch marker.

Slwyib: Slip stitch with yarn in back, releasing any YO wraps (where relevant).

Slwyif: Slip st with yarn in front.

K2tog tbl D Right: Return the held dropped stitch to the left needle, being careful not to twist. Knit this st together with the indicated st through the back loop.

K2tog tbl D Left Loop: Slip this st and any following sts with yarn in back until you reach the stitch to be dropped. Drop that stitch to the front of the work, pulling it taunt before releasing it, and return the stitches you just slipped back to the left hand needle. Pick up the free standing dropped st with the right hand needle and weave it through the loop of the most recently worked drop st (the drop stitch set in place two rounds before) going over the first strand of the loop (right hand strand) and under the second strand of the loop (left hand strand). Place this dropped st on the left hand needle and k2tog through the back loop with the indicated st.

K2tog tbl D Left: Slip this st and any following sts with yarn in back until you reach the stitch to be dropped. Drop that stitch to the front of the work, pulling taunt before releasing it, and return the stitches you just slipped back to the left hand needle. Pick up the free standing dropped st with the right hand and place this dropped st on the left hand needle. K2tog through the back loop with the indicated st.

K2tog tbl D Right Loop: Return the held dropped stitch to the left needle, being careful not to twist. Pull this st through the loop of the most recently worked drop stitch (the drop stitch set in place two rounds before) weaving it over the first strand of the loop (left strand) and under the second strand of the loop (right strand). Place this dropped st on the left hand needle and k2tog through the back loop with the indicated st.

RC: Right Cross
Working with a cable needle: Slip the first st onto a cable needle and hold in back. Knit the next st. Slip st from cable needle back onto the right needle and knit.
Working without a cable needle: Skip the first stitch and knit into the second stitch, leaving it on the left needle. Knit into the first stitch, and slip both off the needle.

LC: Left cross
Working with a cable needle: Slip the next st onto a cable needle and hold in front. Knit the next st. Slip st from cable needle back onto the right needle and knit.
Working without a cable needle: Skip the first stitch and knit into the back of the second stitch, leaving it on the left needle. Knit into the first stitch, and slip both off the needle.

Pick up and purl: Put the tip of the right needle, from back to front, under both strands of the selvedge chain stitch of the shape from the previous round, warp the yarn around as if to purl, and pull through a stitch.

Pick up and knit: Put the tip of the right needle, from front to back, under both strands of the selvedge chain stitch of the shape from the previous round, warp the yarn around as if to knit, and pull through a stitch.

DIRECTIONS
RIGHT SOCK
Cuff
CO 48[60, 72, 84] sts. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Ribbing round: [P1, k2] around.
Work as set until cuff measures 1.5 inches from cast-on edge.

Leg
Leg round: Work Right Leg Chart 4[5, 6, 7] times around.
Work entire chart (rounds 1-32) twice.

Heel

Setup for new start of round:
Size S, M only: P1, sl2, p1, [K2, p1] 1[2, -, -] times, k1. The heel will now be worked over the next 24[30] sts.

Size L only: P1, k1. The heel will now be worked over the next 36 sts.

Size XL: P1, sl2, p1, k1. The heel will now be worked over the next 42 sts.

Follow the Right Heel chart for your size, starting with the set up row. Repeat rows 1-4 of the chart until heel is 2.25 [2.5, 2.75, 3] inches long, or desired length. End with a WS row.

16 sts remain. Turn to work a RS row.

Size M:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k6, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl 1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl 1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: Sl 1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn.

18 sts remain. Turn to work a RS row.

22 sts remain. Turn to work a RS row.

Size XL:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k24, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k6, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl 1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl 1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: Sl 1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 13 [RS]: Sl 1, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14 [WS]: Sl 1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 15 [RS]: Sl 1, k18, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 16 [WS]: Sl 1, p19, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 17 [RS]: Sl 1, k20, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 18 [WS]: Sl 1, p21, p2tog, p1, turn.

24 sts remain. Turn to work a RS row.

Round 1: K1, k2tog, work in established rib until you reach the marker for the instep chart. Work the next row of the instep chart; work in established rib until 3 sts before the end of round, ssk, k1.

Round 2: Work even in pattern as set.

Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 until 24[30, 36, 42] sts remain along the heel and gusset (sole).

Work even in pattern as set until sock measures 4 inches shorter than desired final length.

Round 1: K1, pm, work in patt as set to 1 st before end of round, pm, k1.

Round 2: Kfb, sl m, ssk, work in patt as set to last 3 sts of the round. K2tog, sl m, kfb.

Round 3: K to marker, sl m, work in patt as set to last marker, k to end of round.

Round 4: K1, Kfb, sl m, ssk, work in patt as set to 2 sts before the last marker, k2tog, sl m, kfb, k1.

Round 5: K to marker, sl m, work in patt as set to last marker, k to end of round.

Round 6: K1, Kfb, k to first marker, sl m, ssk, ork in patt as set to 2 sts before the last marker, k2tog, sl m, k until the last 2 sts of the round, kfb, k1.

Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, 0[1, 2, 3] more times.

Round 7: K to marker, sl m. Work in established rib and chart pattern and rib again until you reach the last marker before the end, slipping all markers as you go. Knit all remaining sts.

Round 8: Kfbf, k to first marker, sl m, sssk, work in established rib until you reach the instep chart marker, sl m. Work in established chart pattern, sl m. Work in established rib again until 3 sts before the last marker. K3tog, sl m, k until the last 2 sts of the round. Kfbf, k1.

Repeat Rounds 7 and 8 until all of the sole sts have been converted from rib to stockinette st. The markers placed at the beginning and end of round 1 should have now worked their way to the sides of the foot.

Continue to work sock in newly established pattern: stockinette st for all sole sts, rib and pattern for instep sts, removing the extra markers at the sides of the foot, until sock is approximately 2 inches shorter than final desired length, being sure to end on row 16 or 32 of the leg/instep chart.

Toe
Setup round: Knit all sole sts to start of instep. Work in established rib until you reach the chart marker; work the first 4 sts as established, following the chart, (k2, p1, k2, p1, k2) over the next 8 sts, work the last 4 sts as established continuing the follow the chart. Work in established rib for the remainder of the instep sts, k remaining sole sts to end round.

Round 1: K to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, work remaining instep sts as established in setup row until 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to end of round.
Round 2: Work even in pattern as set.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until at total of 28[32, 32, 36] sts remain. Knit to start of instep sts.

Divide sts evenly between two needles, placing 14[16, 16, 18] sole and 14[16, 16, 18] instep sts on one needle each.

LEFT SOCK

Cuff
Work as for RIGHT SOCK.

Leg
Leg round: Work Left Leg Chart 4[5, 6, 7] times around.
Work entire chart (rounds 1-32) twice.

Heel
Setup for new start of round:
1st and 2nd sizes only: P1, sl2, p1, [K2, p1] 1[2, -, -] times, k1. The heel will now be worked over the next 24[30] sts.

3rd size: P1, k1. The heel will now be worked over the next 36 sts.

4th size: P1, sl2, p1, k1. The heel will now be worked over the next 42 sts.

Follow the Left Heel chart for your size, starting with the set up row. Repeat rows 1-4 of the chart until heel is 2.25 [2.5, 2.75, 3] inches long, or desired length. End with a WS row.

Complete as for RIGHT SOCK.

Gusset
Working as for RIGHT SOCK, working Left Instep chart.

Complete as for RIGHT SOCK , working Left Instep chart as set.

FINISHING
Graft toes closed. Weave in ends.

Yavanna Reynolds (datenshi on Ravelry) is a part-time freelance designer and full-time mom living in the San Francisco Bay Area. When she isn't designing something new to knit or sew, she's usually sleeping, baking, or haunting the library. Other hobbies include enjoying nature, usually in the form of distance running or cycling.

To learn more about her adventures in fiber, fabric, food, and endurance sports check out her blog.