by Kirsten Kapur

As a kid I loved the week in science class when we got to play with triangular prisms. I was fascinated by the way the prism refracted light and created rainbows. When I received the lovely yarn for this project it took me back to those days in science class. I knew I wanted to do something to bend and move the variegated colors in a similar way. After swatching various stitch patterns I found that this one worked just as I had envisioned.

The hat and mitts start with a garter stitch strip which forms the buttoned brim or cuff. The garter strip is worked flat and then joined with the ends overlapping and buttonholes on top. From there the pieces are worked in the round in the fractured stitch pattern. Note that the fractured stitch pattern is written differently for the hat and mitts. The results are the same but the stitch pattern is adjusted for the differences in construction of the pieces.

A combination of silk, merino and seacell make the Blue Moon Fiber Arts Marine Silk Sportweight yarn incredibly soft, giving the hat a lovely drape and making both projects a joy to wear.

SIZE
One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

MATERIALS
Yarn
Blue Moon Fiber Arts Marine Silk Sportweight [51% Silk/29% Merino/20% Sea Cell Rayon; 324 yd/296 m per 100g skein]; color: Knitty's Rainbow; 1 skein*

*Note: Kirsten reports that the finished projects together weigh a total of 97g, not including the buttons. That's very close to the full weight of a single skein. Therefore, you may wish to purchase 2 skeins to ensure you have enough yarn to complete both projects.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set of US 5/3.75mm double-point needles
1 16-inch US 5/3.75mm circular needle
Note: a needle with a sharp point is recommend for this project.

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The beginning of the round shifts at different points throughout the body of the hat and mitts. Read the specific pattern instructions carefully to be aware of these shifts.

Fractured Pattern for Hat
(multiple of 12 sts)
Round 1: (P5, k2tog, k5, yo) around.
Round 2 and every foll even rnd to Round 18: Knit
Round 3: (P4, k2tog, k5, yo, p1) around.
Round 5: (P3, k2tog, k5, yo, p2) around.
Round 7: (P2, k2tog, k5, yo, p3) around.
Round 9: (P1, k2tog, k5, yo, p4) around.
Rounds 11, 13, 15, 17 & 19: (Ssk, p5, yo, k5) around.
Round 20 (even round): Knit, following instructions in pattern for replacing beginning of round marker.
Rep Rounds 1-20 for pattern.

Fractured Pattern for Mitts
(multiple of 12 sts)
Note: DO NOT refer to chart at right.
The chart does not apply to the Mitt pattern.
Rounds 1, 3, 5, 7, & 9: (K5, yo, p5, k2tog) twice.
Round 2 and every foll even round: Knit.
Rounds 11, 13, 15, 17 & 19: (Ssk, p5, yo, k5) twice.
Rep Rounds 1-20 for pattern.

Garter Stitch (worked flat)
All rows: Knit.

Garter Stitch (worked in the round)
Round 1: Knit
Round 2: Purl
Rep Rounds 1-2 for pattern.

DIRECTIONS
HAT
Brim:
With circular needle, CO 112 sts. Do not join.
Working back and forth, work 2 rows in garter st.

Make buttonholes:
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, knit to end.
Rows 2-6: Knit.
Rep Rows 1-6 twice more.
Rep Row 1 once more.
Work 3 rows in garter st. (24 rows total worked from cast on)

Join Brim:
Next row (RS): With a DPN, knit first 8 sts of the row. Change back to circular needles and (k6, m1) sixteen times. 8 sts remain unworked on the left needle.

Clip a safety pin or locking stitch marker to the right side of the work, to help keep track of the right and wrong sides.

Join the brim by working the remaining 8 sts together with the 8 sts on the DPN as follows:

1. With the right side facing out, fold the work over and lay the 8 sts on the DPN on top of the last 8 sts of the row. The DPN should be parallel with the left needle.
2. Take the first st from the right end of the DPN and using the right needle as an aid, slip it purl-wise onto the left needle.
3. Pass the first of the unworked sts on the left needle over the st just transferred onto the left needle.
4. Transfer the st just made onto the right needle.

Repeat Steps 2-4 until all of the 8 remaining sts have been passed over the 8 sts from the DPN. Transfer the 8 sts just worked back onto the left needle.

The brim is now joined with the buttonhole end overlapping the opposite end of the brim. 120 sts

Work Rounds 1-19 of Fractured Pattern for Hat, working each 12-st repeat 10 times total.
Work Round 20 of Fractured Pattern for Hat to last 6 sts of round. Place marker for new beg of round, removing previous beg of round marker during next rnd.

Rep last 20 rounds once more.

Rep Rounds 1-10 of Fractured Pattern for Hat.

Crown Decreases
Note: Transfer the work to the dpns when it becomes too small to work on the circular needle.

Round 1: (Ssk, p5, k5) 10 times. 110 sts

Rounds 2, 4, 6, 8 & 10: Knit.

Round 3: (Ssk, p4, k5) 10 times. 100 sts

Round 5: (Ssk, p3, k5) 10 times. 90 sts

Round 7: (Ssk, p2, k5) 10 times. 80 sts

Round 9: (Ssk, p1, k5) 10 times. 70 sts

Round 11: (Ssk, k5) 10 times. 60 sts

Round 12 (even round): Knit to last 6 sts. Place marker for new beg of round, removing previous beg of round marker during next rnd.

Round 13: (K2tog, k4) 10 times. 50 sts
Rounds 14, 16 & 18: Knit.
Round 15: (K2tog, k3) 10 times. 40 sts
Round 17: (K2tog, k2) 10 times. 30 sts
Round 19: (K2tog, k1) 10 times. 20 sts
Round 20 (even round): (K2tog) 10 times. 10 sts

MITTENS
RIGHT MITT
Cuff:
With straight needles, CO 40 sts.
Working back and forth, work 2 rows in garter st.

Make buttonholes:
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, knit to end.
Rows 2-6: Knit.
Rep Rows 1-6 twice more.
Rep Row 1 once more.
Work 3 rows in garter st. (24 rows total worked from cast on)

Join cuff:
Next row (RS): Knit the first 4 sts of the row onto a DPN (Needle 1). With a second DPN (Needle 2), m1, (k3, m1) five times. With a third DPN (Needle 3), (k3, m1) five times, k2, m1. 4 sts remain unworked; transfer these unworked sts to a fourth DPN (Needle 4).

Clip a safety pin or locking stitch marker to the right side of the work, to help keep track of the right and wrong sides.

Join the cuff by working the 4 sts on Needle 4 together with the 4 sts on Needle 1 as follows:

1. With the RS facing out, fold the work over and lay the 4 sts on needle 1 on top of the 4 sts on Needle 4. Needles 1 & 4 should be parallel (the end with the buttonholes should be on top).
2. Take the first st from the right end of needle 1 and using the fifth DPN as an aid, slip it purl-wise onto Needle 4.
3. Pass first of the unworked sts on Needle 4 over the st just transferred.
4. Transfer the st just made onto the fifth DPN.

Repeat Steps 2-4 until all of the 4 unworked sts have been passed over the 4 sts on Needle 1. The cuff is now joined with the buttonhole end overlapping the opposite end of the cuff. You will now be working in the round. 48 sts
Adjust the sts so that there are 12 sts on each of 4 needles.

Begin Fractured Pattern for Mitts:
Round 1: Work Fractured Pattern for Mitts across first two needles, knit to end of round.
Cont in patt, working Pattern and St st as established, through Round 5 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts.

Make Gusset:
Next round: Work Round 6 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts across needles 1 & 2, k2, pm, m1, pm, knit to end of round.

Rounds 1-2: Work even in patt as established.
Round 3: Work as established to first m, sl m, m1, knit to next m, m1, sl m, work as established to end. 2 sts inc'd

Note: Read ahead! Gusset is formed at the same time as the beginning of the round shifts for the Fractured Pattern.

Rep Rounds 1-3 of gusset seven times more, then rep Rounds 1-2 once more. 17 sts between markers

Next round: Work as established to first m, transfer 17 gusset sts to a piece of scrap yarn, work as established to end of round. 48 sts
AT THE SAME TIME, on Round 10 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts, knit to 1 st from the end of the round. This is the new beginning of the round. Adjust the needles so that there are 12 sts on each needle again.
On Round 20 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts, transfer the first st on needle 1 to needle 4 and knit it. The new beginning of the round is here. Adjust the needles so that there are 12 sts on each needle again.
Work Rounds 1-19 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts once more, adjusting sts as for the first repeat of the pattern. After Round 19 is complete, continue to Top edge, below. Top edge:
Round 1: (K4, k2tog) eight times. 40 sts
Work 3 rounds in garter st, beginning with a purl round.
Bind off loosely. Continue to Both Thumbs below.

LEFT MITT
Cuff
With straight needles, CO 40 sts
Working back and forth, work 2 rows in garter st.

Make buttonholes:
Row 1 (RS): K36, k2tog, yo, k2.
Rows 2-6: Knit
Rep Rows 1-6 twice more.
Rep Row 1 once more.
Work 3 rows in garter st. (24 rows total worked from cast on)

Join cuff:
Next row (RS): Knit the first 4 sts of the row onto a DPN (Needle 1). With a second DPN (Needle 2), m1, (k3, m1) five times. With a third DPN (Needle 3), (k3, m1) five times, k2, m1. Knit the last 4 sts onto a fourth DPN (Needle 4).

Clip a safety pin or locking stitch marker to the right side of the work, to help keep track of the right and wrong sides.

Join the cuff by working the 4 sts on Needle 4 together with the 4 sts on Needle 1 as follows:

1. With the RS facing out, fold the work over and lay the 4 sts from Needle 4 on top of the 4 sts from Needle 1. Needles 1 & 4 should be parallel (the end with the buttonholes should be on top).
2. Take the first st from the right end of Needle 4 and using the fifth DPN as an aid, slip it purl-wise onto the right end of Needle 1.
3. Pass the first st from the right end of needle 1 over the st just transferred.
4. Transfer the st just made onto the 5th DPN.

Repeat Steps 2-4 until all of the 4 unworked sts have been passed over the 4 sts on Needle 1. The cuff is now joined with the buttonhole end overlapping the opposite end of the cuff. 48 sts
Adjust the sts so that there are 12 sts on each of 4 needles.

Begin Fractured Pattern for Mitts:
Round 1: Work in St st across first two needles, and, starting with Round 11, work in Fractured Pattern for Mitts across needles 3 & 4.
Cont in patt, working Pattern and St st as established, through Round 15 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts.

Make Gusset:
Next round: K22, pm, m1, pm, k2, work Round 16 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts to end.

Rounds 1-2: Work even in patt as established.
Round 3: Work as established to first m, sl m, m1, knit to next m, m1, sl m, work as established to end. 2 sts inc'd

Note: Read ahead! Gusset is formed at the same time as the beginning of the round shifts for the Fractured Pattern.

Rep Rounds 1-3 of gusset seven times more, then rep Rounds 1-2 once more. 17 sts between markers

Next round: Work as established to first m, transfer 17 gusset sts to a piece of scrap yarn, work as established to end of round. 48 sts
AT THE SAME TIME, on Round 20 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts, transfer the first st on needle 1 to needle 4 and knit it. The new beginning of the round is here. Adjust the needles so that there are 12 sts on each needle again.

On Round 10 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts, knit to 1 st from the end of the round. This is the new beginning of the round. Adjust the needles so that there are 12 sts on each needle again.
Work Rounds 11-20 of Fractured Pattern for Mitts once more, then Rounds 1-9 once more, adjusting sts as for the first repeat of the pattern. After Round 9 is complete, continue to Top edge, below.

Top edge:
Round 1: (K4, k2tog) eight times. 40 sts
Work 3 rounds in garter st, beginning with a purl round.
Bind off loosely.

Both Thumbs:
Place the live sts from the gusset back on the dpns.
Round 1: K17, pick up and knit 2 sts in the gap. Join to work in the round. 19 sts
Round 2: K7, k2tog, k8, k2tog. 17 sts
Work 3 rounds in garter st, beginning with a purl round.
Bind off loosely.

FINISHING
HAT
Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Using the tapestry needle, thread the tail through the remaining 10 sts.
Pull on the tail to close the hole in the crown.

BOTH PROJECTS
Weave in all ends.
Block.
Using the buttonholes as a guide, sew the buttons into place.

Kirsten has been knitting, sewing, and creating for as long as she can remember. She worked for many years as a fashion and textile designer before leaving the industry to raise her kids. Designing knitting patterns allows Kirsten to combine her love of garment construction and surface design.

Kirsten's first published pattern was Tahoe for Knitty, back in Spring 2007. Since then, she's been busy. You can find Kirsten's patterns on her website. Kirsten lives in New York City with her husband and three college-aged children.