Farewell, heat, and welcome frost! --The Merchant of Venice
I really hate being cold. I dread the coldest days of winter when my teeth chatter like castanets indoors, even when the furnace is blasting its pitiful best. This year, though, I'm going to be toasty warm wearing this incredible jacket.
Made in worsted-weight wool, the base jacket is worked in one piece in a way that allows the unique cabling to proceed without interruption around the arms. The jacket avoids being too boxy by using tapered Wood Grain panels to join the front and back. These panels appeal to the sewing phobic since they allow most of the assembly of the basic jacket to be done on knitting needles and not with the sewing needle.
While the body of the jacket is both eye-catching and unusually constructed, its true distinguishing feature is that every opening is weather proofed. There is a close fitting, lined hood. The gapless front opening is achieved with a zipper which is then camouflaged by a wide button placket. The cuffs extend to become fingerless mitts or can be worn retracted providing a barrier to cold air that might otherwise sneak up the arm. Finally, a narrow band of ribbing sewn into the interior of the jacket around the waist provides a simple yet effective draft excluder while providing a bit of gentle shaping to the waist.
Other unique features of the design include a grommet style button hole developed for this design and a grafting cheat sheet which makes the grafting of the cabled fabric of the hood a bit of a challenge.
All these features combine to create the perfect jacket for indoor use in the winter or outdoor use on a crisp fall day. So, why would this jacket be a good addition to a cold-weather wardrobe? Rime's* the Reason.
*Rime (noun): frost formed on cold objects by the rapid freezing of water vapor.
model: Jodie Gordon Lucas, Helene Willson photos: Sonja Richter
SIZE XS[S, M, L, 1X, 3X, 5X] shown in sizes S (brown) and 1X (orange)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Jacket to be worn with 2-6 inches positive ease at the bust. Measurements do not include buttonbands or zipper panels which measure approx. 3 inches across.
Please note: sizing revised significantly 12/12/12. Due to the nature of the pattern repeat, the gradient of sizes does not fully cover our usual spectrum. Two sizes that were non-functional have been deleted. The numbers for each size that remains have not changed. If you had planned to knit 2X or 4X, we recommend you choose another size from those that remain. We recommend a size that will give you enough ease for layering.
Bust: 36.5[37.25, 38.5, 40.75, 49, 52.5, 62.25] inches Hips: 41.75[43.75, 47.25, 51.5, 55.75, 62.5, 69.5] inches Length: 26[26, 26, 26, 29, 29, 29] inches from shoulder to back hem
MATERIALS
Yarn Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool [100% wool; 465 yds/ 425 m per 227 g skein]; Nature's Brown, 126; 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] skeins; shown is size S and used 722g. OR Patons Classic Wool [100% wool; 210 ys/192 m per 100 g skein]; Pumpkin; 9[10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14] skeins; shown in size 1X and used 1100 g. NOTE: Although both yarns used were worsted weight wool, the yardage requirements were very different. Lion Brand Fisherman's wool: 1500[1550, 1650, 1750, 1950, 2200, 2375] yards. Patons Classic Wool: 1750[1800, 1925, 2075, 2300, 2575, 2775] yards.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1 60-inch US #6/4 mm circular needle (or two 30-inch or longer needles) 1 set US #8/5mm straight needles (for zipper only) 1 set of #6/4mm dpns or a shorter circular needle are helpful but not necessary for working the cuffs, hood front panel and hood crown.
Notions Waste yarn for holding stitches Crochet hook Stitch markers Cable needle Safety pins or removable stitch markers Yarn needle 5 to 9 toggle style buttons (as desired) 26[26, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28] inch separating zipper Note: buy zipper after sweater is blocked to ensure a proper fit Knit picker (small latch hook for drawing sts through zipper fabric) Sewing needle and thread
GAUGE
After blocking:
23 sts/25 rows = 4 inches in Rime Cables
23 sts/20 rows = 4 inches in Wood Grain
16 sts/ 21 rows= 4 inches in Stockinette stitch
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
2/2/2 RPC: Slip 4 sts to cn and hold to back, k2 from LH needle, slip 2 sts from left end of cn to LH needle, p2 from LH needle, then k2 from cn.
RT: Knit into second stitch on LH needle, knit first stitch, slip both sts from LH needle.
LT: Knit into back of second stitch on LH needle, knit first stitch, slip both sts from LH needle.
C2Bp: Knit into second stitch on the LH needle, purl first stitch, slip both sts from LH needle.
C2Fp: With yarn at back, slip 1 st from LH needle to RH needle, then purl 1. From the front, insert tip of LH needle into the second st on the right needle as if to knit. Taking care to prevent the first st on the RH needle from unraveling, drop both sts from RH needle, take needle behind the work and insert it into the purled stitch. Knit 1 from LH needle. Alternatively: Sl 1 st to cn and hold to front, p1, then k1 from cn.
LLI: Lifted Left Increase (knit) -- Pick up the left side of the second stitch below the final stitch on the right needle. Place this stitch on the left needle and knit it.
LLI-p: Lifted Left Increase (purl) -- Pick up the left side of the second stitch below the final stitch on the right needle. Place this stitch on the left needle and purl it.
M1bKfb: from the back lift bar between stitches onto the left needle, knit the front and back of the new stitch.
P3tog: purl 3 sts together.
RLI: Right Lifted Increase (knit) -- Pick up the right side of the first stitch below the final stitch on the left needle. Place this stitch on the needle and knit it.
RLI-p: Right Lifted Increase (purl) -- Pick up the right side of the first stitch below the final stitch on the left needle. Place this stitch on the needle and purl it.
Slk: Slip 1 st as if to knit.
S2kp2: Slip 2 stitches as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 slipped stitches over.
Sssk: Slip 3 sts separately knit-wise, knit these 3 sts together through the back of the loops.
Provisional cast on using a crochet chain:
All stitches are cast on using a crochet chain that is a few stitches longer than the desired number of cast on sts. Create the chain with waste yarn, switch to your working yarn and pick up and knit as many sts as needed from the chain, as shown here in the tutorial here.
Wood Grain (worked over an odd number of sts) Row 1 [RS]: K1, LLI, knit to 2 sts before center st of panel, s2kp2, knit to last st, RLI, k1. Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Mistake Rib (Worked in multiples of 4 sts + 3): Round 1: (K2, p2) to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Round 2: K1, (p2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2.
Seed Stitch (Worked over an odd number of sts) Row 1: (K1, p1) to final st, k1.
Repeat Row 1 as directed in pattern.
Rime Cable (Worked in multiples of 18 sts + 6) Use of the chart is strongly recommended, however, written instructions are provided below. Row 1 [RS]: [2/2/2 RPC, p12] to last 6 sts, 2/2/2 RPC. Row 2 [WS]: P2, k1, [k1, p2, k12, p2, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 3: K2, p1, [p1, k1, LT, p10, RT, k1, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 4: P2, k1, [k1, p3, k10, p3, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 5: K2, p1, [p1, k2, LT, p8, RT, k2, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 6: P2, k1, [ k1, p4, k8, p4, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 7: K2, p1, [p1, k3, LT, p6, RT, k3, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 8: P2, k1, [k1, p5, k6, p5, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 9: K2, p1, [p1, k4, LT, p4, RT, k4, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 10: P2, k1, [k1, p6, k4, p6, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 11: K2, p1, [p1, C2Fp, k3, LT, p2, RT, k3, C2Bp, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 12: P2, k1, [k2, p6] to last 5 sts, k3, p2. Row 13: K2, p1, [p2, C2Fp, k4, p2, k4, C2Bp, p2] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 14: P2, k1, [k3, p5, k2, p5, k3] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 15: K2, p1, [p3, C2Fp, k3, p2, k3, C2Bp, p3] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 16: P2, k1, [k4, p4, k2, p4, k4] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 17: K2, p1, [p4, C2Fp, k2, p2, k2, C2Bp, p4] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 18: P2, k1, [k5, p3, k2, p3, k5] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 19: K2, p1, [p5, C2Fp, k1, p2, k1, C2Bp, p5] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 20: P2, k1, [k6, p2, k2, p2, k6] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 21: K2, p1, [p6, 2/2/2 RPC, p6] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 22: P2, k1, [k6, p2, k2, p2, k6] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 23: K2, p1 [p5, RT, k1, p2, k1, LT, p5] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 24: P2, k1, [k5, p3, k2, p3, k5] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 25: K2, p1, [p4, RT, k2, p2, k2, LT, p4] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 26: P2, k1, [k4, p4, k2, p4, k4] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 27: K2, p1, [p3, RT, k3, p2, k3, LT, p3] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 28: P2, k1, [k3, p5, k2, p5, k3] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 29: K2, p1, [p2, RT, k4, p2, k4, LT, p2] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 30: P2, k1, [k2, p6] to last 5 sts, k3, p2. Row 31: K2, p1, [p1, RT, k3, C2Bp, k2, C2Fp, k3, LT, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 32: P2, k1, [k1, p6, k4, p6, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 33: K2, p1, [p1, k4, C2Bp, p4, C2Fp, k4, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 34: P2, k1, [k1, p5, k6, p5, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 35: K2, p1, [p1, k3, C2Bp, p6, C2Fp, k3, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 36: P2, k1, [k1, p4, k8, p4, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 37: K2, p1, [p1, k2, C2Bp, p8, C2Fp, k2, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 38: P2, k1, [k1, p3, k10, p3, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Row 39: K2, p1, [p1, k1, C2Bp, p10, C2Fp, k1, p1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2. Row 40 [WS]: P2, k1, [k1, p2, k12, p2, k1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Repeat Rows 1-40 for pattern.
Grafting with Kitchener Stitch This article provides an outstanding introduction to grafting with Kitchener stitch in stockinette. Once familiar with the basic method use the chart below to graft combinations of knits and purls. If desired, place stitches on a lifeline prior to grafting.
Queenie's Grommet
Each grommet needs an additional 20 inch length of the working yarn. Leave a 4 inch yarn tail at the beginning of the grommet. All grommet stitches are worked holding both strands of yarn.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, turn. Row 2 [WS]: K1, yo twice, p1, turn. Row 3 [RS]: K1, purl first yarn over, drop second yarn over, k2tog.
To finish, pull both strands of the yarn ends to the wrong side. To reinforce the opening, hold the shorter strand along the grommet opening and use the longer strand to sew it in place using small, closely placed stitches. Once one circuit of the grommet has been made, pull the remainder of the yarn tails under the reinforcing stitches for up to one full circuit of the grommet; trim yarn end close to the grommet edge.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very large and fit on a letter-sized
page.
Click here and print the resulting
page. Hood chart updated 1/7/13
DIRECTIONS
BODY
Using circular needle, cast on 168[180, 200, 224, 212, 252, 256] sts into a provisional chain.
Body set-up row [WS]: P36[42, 52, 64, 40, 60, 44], pm, work Row 20[20, 20, 20, 40, 40, 40] of Rime Cable, working 18-st repeat a total of 5[5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9] times across row, pm, p36[42, 52, 64, 40, 60, 44].
Row 1 [RS]: Slk, k1, LLI, k15[18, 23, 29, 17, 27, 19], s2kp2, knit to 1 st before marker, RLI, k1, sl m, work Row 21[21, 21, 21, 1, 1, 1] of Rime Cable to next marker, sl m, k1, LLI, k15[18, 23, 29, 17, 27, 19], s2kp2, knit to 2 sts from end, RLI, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: Slp, purl to marker, sl m, work Row 22[22, 22, 22, 2, 2, 2] of Rime Cable to next marker, sl m, purl to end.
Work in established pattern for 12[12, 4, 2, 16, 12, 14] rows more, working rows as foll:
RS rows: Slk, work Wood Grain pattern to first marker, sl m, work next row of Rime Cables to next marker, sl m, work Wood Grain pattern to last st, k1.
WS rows: Slp, purl to marker, sl m, work next row of Rime Cables to next marker, sl m, purl to end.
Decrease row [RS]: Slk, knit to 2 st before center st of panel, s2kp2, knit to marker, sl m, work Rime Cables to marker, sl m, knit to 2 sts before center st of panel, s2kp2, knit to end. 4 sts dec'd
Rep Decrease row every 16[12, 10, 8, 12, 8, 10] rows 6[8, 11, 14, 8, 13, 9] times more. 140[144, 152, 164, 176, 196, 216] sts
Work 7[7, 1, 1, 13, 9, 11] more rows even in patt, ending on Row 18[18, 18, 18, 8, 8, 38] of Rime Cable pattern. 118[118, 118, 118, 128, 128, 118] total rows worked after set-up row.
Do not bind off. Break yarn and slip 22[24, 28, 34, 22, 32, 24] sts on either end of work onto waste yarn/stitch holder (all sts between beg of row and first marker and second marker and end of row). 96[96, 96, 96, 132, 132, 168] sts remaining on needle.
Cast on for sleeves:
With RS of rem sts facing, cast on 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] sts into provisional crochet chain at the beg of the row for the right sleeve, work Row 19[19, 19, 19, 9, 9, 39] of Rime Cables across back, cast on 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] sts into separate provisional chain for the left sleeve. 260[260, 278, 278, 314, 314, 368] sts
Note: For Sizes XS, S, M, L and 5X, the following row of the Chart will not sequentially follow from the previous row. Please note new row number of chart worked in Set-up Row.
Set-up Row [WS]: P1, work Row 40[40, 40, 40, 10, 10, 20] of Rime Cables to last st (for a total of 14[14, 14, 14, 17, 17, 20] chart reps), p1.
Row 1 [RS]: Slk, Row 1[1, 1, 1, 11, 11, 21] of Rime Cables to last st, k1. Row 2 [WS]: Slp, work Row 2[2, 2, 2, 12, 12, 22] of Rime Cables to last st, p1.
Work 38[38, 38, 38, 48, 48, 58] more rows even in patt, ending on Row 40[40, 40, 40, 20, 20, 40] of Rime Cables.
Sizes XS, S, M, L & 5X Only: Neck set-up row [RS]: Slk, work Row 1 of Rime Cables over next 108[108, 108, 108, -, -, 162] sts (working repeat 6[6, 6, 6, -, -, 9] times and ending on stitch 18). Slip 4 sts to cn and hold to back, k2 from LH needle, slip 2 sts from left end of cn to LH needle, p1 from LH needle, LLI, pm, p1 from LH needle, k2 from cn, p12, 2/2/2 RPC, p12, slip 4 sts to cn and hold to back, k2 from LH needle, slip 2 sts from left end of cn to LH needle, p1 from LH needle, pm, RLI, p1 from LH needle, k2 from cn, p12, work Row 1 of Rime Cables to last st (working repeat a total of 5[5, 5, 5, -, -, 8] times), k1.
Sizes 1X & 3X Only: Neck set-up row [RS]: Slk, work Row 21 of Rime Cables over next 129 sts (working repeat a total of 7 times and ending on stitch 21), p6, slip 4 sts to cn and hold to back, k2 from LH needle, slip 2 sts from left end of cn to LH needle, p1 from LH needle, LLI, pm, p1 from LH needle, k2 from cn, p12, 2/2/2 RPC, p12, slip 4 sts to cn and hold to back, k2 from LH needle, slip 2 sts from left end of cn to LH needle, p1 from LH needle, pm, RLI, p1 from LH needle, k2 from cn, p6, beginning with st 4, work Row 21 of Rime Cables to last st (working repeat a total of 7 times), k1.
Place first 113[113, 113, 113, 140, 140, 167] sts of row (all sts from right edge to first marker) onto holder. Place next 36 sts (between markers) onto a second holder.
Separate for left half: Row 1 [WS]: Slp, work Row 2[2, 2, 2, 22, 22, 2] of Rime Cables to last st (ending on St 4[4, 4, 4, 13, 13, 4] of chart), p1. 113[113, 113, 113, 140, 140, 167] sts. Row 2 [RS]: Slk, beginning on St 4[4, 4, 4, 13, 13, 4], work Row 3[3, 3, 3, 23, 23, 3] of Rime Cables to last st, k1.
Work 19 more rows in est patt, ending on Row 22[22, 22, 22, 2, 2, 22] of chart.
Left Neck Increase Row [RS]: Slk, RLI-p, work in est patt to end of row. 1 st inc'd
Work even in established pattern for 5 rows.
Rep last 6 rows once more, then rep Left Neck Increase Row once more, working all increases in reverse stockinette stitch as est (these sts can later be worked into cable patt when possible). 116[116, 116, 116, 143, 143, 170] sts
Work even in established patt for 7[7, 7, 7, 17, 17, 27] rows more (for a total of 82[82, 82, 82, 102, 102, 122] rows from the beginning of sleeves, not including set-up row), and ending on Row 2[2, 2, 2, 12, 12, 22] of Rime Cables. Break yarn. With RS facing, transfer last 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] sts of row to holder. 34[34, 34, 34, 52, 52, 70] sts remain.
Left front set-up [RS]: Slk, k2, p1, beg on St 4[4, 4, 4, 13, 13, 4], work Row 3[3, 3, 3, 13, 13, 23] of Rime Cables over next 27[27, 27, 27, 45, 45, 63] sts (ending on St 12[12, 12, 12, 21, 21, 12]), p1, k2, LLI. 35[35, 35, 35, 53, 53, 71] sts
Work even in est patt for 120[120, 120, 120, 130, 130, 120] rows from end of sleeve, ending on Row 2[2, 2, 2, 22, 22, 22] of Rime Cables. Slip sts to holder.
Right half:
With WS facing, return held 113[113, 113, 113, 140, 140, 167] sts for right neck to needle. Row 1 [WS]: Slp, beginning with stitch 21[21, 21, 21, 12, 12, 21], work Row 2[2, 2, 2, 22, 22, 2] of Rime Cables to last st (ending on stitch 1), p1. Row 2 [RS]: Slk, k2, p1, work Row 3[3, 3, 3, 23, 23, 3] of Rime Cables to last st (ending on stitch 21[21, 21, 21, 12, 12, 21]), k1.
Work 19 more rows in est patt, ending on Row 22[22, 22, 22, 2, 2, 22] of chart.
Right Neck Increase Row [RS]: Slk, work next Row of Rime Cables to last st, LLI-p, k1. 1 st inc'd
Work even in established pattern for 5 rows.
Rep last 6 rows once more, then rep Right Neck Increase Row once more, working all increases in reverse stockinette stitch as est (these sts can later be worked into cable patt when possible). 116[116, 116, 116, 143, 143, 170] sts
Work even in established patt for 7[7, 7, 7, 17, 17, 27] rows more (for a total of 82[82, 82, 82, 102, 102, 122] rows from the beginning of sleeves, not including set-up row), and ending on Row 2[2, 2, 2, 12, 12, 22] of Rime Cables. With RS facing, transfer first 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] sts of row to holder. 34[34, 34, 34, 52, 52, 70] sts remain
Right front set-up [RS]: RLI, k1, work Row 3[3, 3, 3, 13, 13, 23] of Rime Cables to last st (ending on stitch 12), k1. 35[35, 35, 35, 53, 53, 71] sts
WS rows: Slp, p2, k1, beginning at stitch 9, work in Rime Cables as established ending after stitch 18, k1, p3. RS rows: Slk, k2, p1, beginning with stitch 1, work in Rime Cables as established ending after stitch 9, p1, k3.
Work even in est patt for 120[120, 120, 120, 130, 130, 120] rows from end of sleeve, ending on Row 2[2, 2, 2, 22, 22, 22] of Rime Cables. Slip sts to holder.
Right Sleeve Note: Sleeves are continued with a type of underarm "saddle," with the Wood Grain panel continuing up the length of the sleeve on the underside, working toward the cuff and decreasing 1 st from each side of the held sleeve stitches from the cast on and previously held sts.
With RS facing, place 22[24, 28, 34, 22, 32, 24] sts held sts of Wood Grain panel on right side of body on needle; remove 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] sts from crochet chain of the Right Sleeve and place them on the needle.
Beginning at cuff end of sleeve, place 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] held Right Sleeve sts back on needle. Beginning of work will be at the right edge of the Wood Grain panel.
Mark center stitch of Wood Grain panel with a safety pin. Use this marked stitch to keep track of rows worked.
Sleeve Row 1 [RS]: Slk, pm, k1, LLI, knit to 2 sts before center st of Wood Grain panel, s2kp2, knit to 1 st from end of Wood Grain panel, RLI, k1, pm, M1 in the gap between the side panel and sleeve, slip next 2 sts separately knitwise, slip last 3 sts worked back to LH needle and k3tog tbl. 21[23, 27, 33, 21, 31, 23] sts between markers.
**Row 2 [WS]: Slp, sl m, purl to marker, sl m, p3tog. 2 sts dec'd
Row 3 [RS]: Slk, sl m, k1, LLI, knit to 2 sts before center st, s2kp2, knit to 1 st before marker, RLI, k1, sl m, sssk. 2 sts dec'd
Row 4 [WS]: Slp, sl m, purl to marker, sl m, p3tog. 2 sts dec'd
Rep last two rows 4[2, 3, 5, 3, 2, 3] more times; 12[8, 10, 14, 10, 8, 10] rows worked from start of arm panel, 70[74, 72, 68, 81, 83, 90] sts for each sleeve side (not including slipped sts).
Decrease row 1 [RS]: Slk, sl m, knit to 2 sts before center st, s2kp2, knit to marker, sl m, sssk. 4 sts dec'd
Rep Row 4 once, then rep Rows 3-4, 3[3, 1, 1, 4, 2, 4] times more.
Rep last 8[8, 6, 4, 10, 6, 10] rows 6[7, 9, 12, 6, 11, 7] times more, then rep Decrease row 1 once more. 5 sts rem between markers.
Rep Row 4 once, then rep Rows 3 - 4, 2[1, 2, 3, 1, 1, 1] times more.
Decrease row 2 [RS]: Slk, sl m, k1, s2kp2, k1, sl m, sssk. 4 sts dec'd; 3 sts rem between markers
Work foll two rows 2[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 1] time(s), then work WS row once more: Next row [WS]: Slp, sl m, purl to marker, sl m, p3tog. 2 sts dec'd Next row [RS]: Slk, sl m, k3, sl m, sssk. 2 sts dec'd
9[9, 9, 9, 7, 7, 9] sts rem: 2 slipped stitches, 2[2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 2] sts for each sleeve side and 3 sts between markers
Decrease row 3 [RS]: Slk, sl m, s2kp2, sl m, sssk 1[1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 1] time, ssk 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 0] time. 1 st rem between markers
Next row [WS]: Slp, sl m, p1, sl m, p3tog 1[1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 1] time, p2tog 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 0] time. 3 sts rem
Do not break yarn. Continue to sleeve edge.
Sleeve edge: Joining round [RS]: Slk, remove marker, k1, sl m, k1. Remaining marker will be the beginning of round for the sleeve edge. Pick up and knit 42[42, 42, 42, 52, 52, 62] along the edge of the sleeve (1 st for every slipped st along edge), knit rem 2 sts to marker. Work is now joined in the round. 45[45, 45, 45, 55, 55, 65] sts
Place every other st on a length of waste yarn to be worked later as follows:
Dividing round: (Slp, place next st on waste yarn held on inside of work) around. 45[45, 45, 45, 55, 55, 65] sts
Exterior cuff: Round 1: (K1, p1) to last st, k1. Round 2: (P1, k1) to final st, p1.
Repeat Rounds 1 - 2 twice more.
Bind off in pattern.
Interior cuff/fingerless mitt:
With RS facing, return 45[45, 45, 45, 55, 55, 65] sts stitches on waste yarn inside cuff to needle. Place marker for beg of round and cont in the round as foll: Round 1: Knit. Round 2: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1.
Repeat last two rounds 6[6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 10] times more. 31[31, 31, 31, 39, 39, 43] sts
*** Fingerless mitt set-up round: K23[23, 23, 23, 26, 26, 29], pm to mark beg of rnd.
Work Mistake Rib until interior cuff measures 4 inches from dividing round. Turn at end of last round.
Row 1: [K2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Turn.
Repeat Row 1 until interior cuff measures 5.25 inches from dividing round, ending after a RS row.
Join to work in the round once more and rep Rounds 1 - 2 of Mistake Rib for 2 inches more for mitts that end at the fingers or for 6 inches (or more) for a folded mitt.
Bind off using Jeny's Suprisingly Stretchy Bind Off in pattern.
Left Sleeve
With RS facing, place 22[24, 28, 34, 22, 32, 24] sts held sts of Wood Grain panel on left side of body on needle; place 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] held Left Sleeve sts back on needle, remove 82[82, 82, 82, 91, 91, 100] sts from crochet chain of the Left Sleeve and place them on the needle. Beginning of work will be at the right edge of the Wood Grain panel.
Mark center stitch of Wood Grain panel with a safety pin. Use this marked stitch to keep track of rows worked.
Sleeve Row 1 [RS]: M1 in gap between side panel and Back, pm, k1, LLI, knit to 2 sts before center st of Wood Grain panel, s2kp2, knit to 1 st from end of Wood Grain panel, RLI, k1, pm, sssk. 21[23, 27, 33, 21, 31, 23] sts between markers
Work as for Right Sleeve from ** to ***.
Fingerless mitt set-up round: K8[8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10], pm to mark beg of rnd.
Work as for Right Sleeve from Mistake Rib to end.
Hood
Mark the 11th slipped edge stitch from either end of the 36 held Back Neck stitches.
Right neck edge set up: Row 1 [RS]: Using circular needle and starting at marked st to right of Back Neck sts, pick up and knit 11 sts to held neck sts, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: (Kfb) 11 times.
With RS facing, return Back Neck stitches to the circular needle after the right neck edge picked up sts. 58 sts
Left neck edge set up: Row 1 [RS]: Attach separate ball of yarn at end of Back Neck sts and pick up and knit 11 sts to marked st, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: (Kfb) 11 times. Break yarn.
Slip 22 left neck edge sts on to needle to left of previous 58 sts. 80 sts total
Hood neck:
Starting at right edge of hood where yarn is still attached, cont as foll: Row 1 [RS]: Slk, work Row 1 of Rime Cable to last st (working repeat 4 times), k1.
Row 2 [WS]: Slp, work Row 2 of Rime Cable to last st (working repeat 4 times), p1.
Cont in pattern for 40 rows more, ending after Row 2 of Rime Cable pattern.
Row 43 [RS]: Slk, work 24 sts in Row 3 of Rime Cable, ending on st 24, pm, p6, pm, work 18 stitch repeat of Row 23 of Rime Cable (beginning on stitch 4 and ending on stitch 21), pm, p6, pm, work 24 sts in Row 3 of Rime Cable, beginning on stitch 1 and ending on st 24, k1. Row 44 [WS]: Slp, work 24 sts in Row 4 of Rime Cable, sl m, k6, sl m, work 18 stitch repeat of Row 24 of Rime Chart, sl m, k6, sl m, work 24 sts in Row 4 of Rime Chart, k1.
Work 16 more rows in established pattern. Final row worked of Rime Cables is Row 20 at side panels and Row 40 at center back.
Front panel: Row 1 [RS]: Slk, work Row 21 of Rime Cable to first marker, LLI, place next 30 sts on a strand of waste yarn, place the foll 25 sts on a separate strand of waste yarn. Turn. 26 sts rem on needle Row 2 [WS]: Slp, work Row 22 of Rime Cable to last st, p1.
Work 38 more rows in established pattern, ending after Row 20 of Rime Cables. Row 41 [RS]: Slk, work Row 21 of Rime Cable to last 2 sts, k2tog. 25 sts
Break yarn leaving a 24-inch tail. Using Queenie's Kitchener Cheat sheet graft rem sts to 25 held sts on opposite side of hood.
Hood Crown:
With RS facing, place 30 held sts from back of hood on needle. Starting at the corner between the 30 held back neck sts and the left panel (where the stitches were grafted), pick up and knit 30 sts along underside of joined front panel to corner of right side of panel and back neck, pm (beg of rnd).
Work Rounds 1-21 of Crown Chart, following Chart or Written Instructions below:
Lower Edge:
Sew edges of Rime Cable fronts to Wood Grain side panels. Starting at center hem edge of Left Front, place all held sts along hem edge of garment on needle. 238[250, 270, 294, 318, 346, 358, 370, 398] sts
Place removable markers in center sts of Wood Grain Side Panels.
Row 1 [RS]: Slk, (knit to center stitch of Wood Grain side panel, LLI, knit center stitch, RLI) twice, knit to end of row. 242[254, 274, 298, 322, 362, 402] sts Row 2 [WS]: Slp, purl to end of row. Row 3 [RS]: Slk, (k1, p2tog) 17[18, 19, 21, 23, 27, 30] times, (k1, p1) 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3] times, (k1, p2tog) 42[44, 48, 52, 56, 62, 69] times, (k1, p1) 4[4, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] times, (k1, p2tog) 16[17, 18, 20, 22, 26, 29] times, (k1, p1) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 0, 0] time, (kfb) 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1] time, k2. 169[177, 191, 207, 223, 249, 277] sts Rows 4, 6 & 8 [WS]: Slp, Seed St to last st, p1. Rows 5 and 7 [RS]: Slk, (Seed St to 2 sts before center stitch of Wood Grain side panel, [p1, M1bkfb, k1] twice) twice, Seed St to last st, k1. 4 sts inc'd
Bind off all sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off in established pattern. Do not break yarn.
Front Edges
Try on jacket. Determine highest point zipper and button panels will reach (not necessarily the body/hood transition unless a zip-to-the-chin effect is desired). Mark with safety pins.
With RS facing and beginning at the lower right corner, pick up and knit an odd number of total sts along the Right Front edge (picking up 1 st in each slipped st), pick up and knit 7 sts past the natural indentation where hood joins the body, turn. Knit 14 sts, turn. Knit 14 sts. Continue to pick up 1 st in each slipped st along edge of hood, picking up an odd number of total sts; pick up and knit 7 sts along the left side of the body past the natural indentation where hood joins the body, turn. Knit 14 sts, turn. Knit 14 sts. Pick up and knit 1 st in each slipped st along edge of Left Front, making sure the number of picked up sts matches that picked up for the Right Front.
Row 1 [WS]: (Kfb) across.Note: If omitting the zipper work all sts from beg of row to first marker and all sts from second marker to end in plain knit. If omitting hood lining, work all sts between 2 markers in plain knit.
Place every other st on a length of waste yarn to be worked later as foll:
Dividing row [RS]: *With separate length of waste yarn, (slp, place next st on waste yarn held on WS of work) to 1 st before marker, slp. Rep from * once more. With separate length of waste yarn, (slp, place next st on waste yarn and hold on WS of work) to last st, slp.
With RS facing for first row, work 6 rows in seed st.
Row 8 [RS]: Seed st to first marker, bind of all sts between markers using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off, seed st to end of row.
Buttonband:
Work 8 rows in Seed st over Left Front sts only.
Bind off these sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off.
Buttonhole band:
Cut support strands for grommets before beginning.
With WS facing, reattach yarn to Right Front sts. Row 9 [WS]: Work in seed st, marking desired placement of grommets (reinforced circular buttonholes) with safety pin (aligning with cable rows where 2/2/2 RPCs take place is recommended). Rows 10-12: Continue working in Seed Stitch while working grommets at desired positions (See Queenie's Grommet in pattern notes).Note: grommets begin with a knit. Place accordingly in the Seed Stitch pattern.
Work 6 rows more in seed st.
Bind off these sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off.
Hood lining:
With RS facing, return held sts along inside hood edge to needle. Row 1 [RS]: Knit all sts tbl. Row 2 [WS]: Slp, purl to end. Row 3 [RS]: Slk, knit to end.
Rep Rows 2-3 until lining measures 4 inches from Dividing Row. Bind off these sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off.
Do not sew lining into place until after jacket has been blocked.
Zipper Panel:
Return held sts from beneath buttonhole band to needle. Row 1 [RS]: Knit all sts tbl. Row 2-6: Knit.
Slip sts to holder. They will be used to install the zipper after blocking.
Repeat for other side.
Draft Excluder:
Using long tail cast on, cast on 120[124, 132, 140, 172, 184, 224] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, [k2, p2] to 3 sts from end, k3. Row 2 [WS]: Slp, [p2, k2] to 3 sts from end, p3. Row 3 [RS]: Slk, [k2, p2] to 3 sts from end, k3.
Rep Rows 2-3 until work measures 2 inches from cast on Bind off these sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off, leaving a long tail to sew in place.
FINISHING
Wash jacket. Squeeze between towels until damp. On a flat surface, gently stretch jacket into desired shape and let dry. Pay particular attention to the shape of the hood and the points of the side panels.
Sew buttons on buttonband opposite buttonholes. Fold over hood lining and sew into place.
Try on jacket and mark the waist -- ideally along a 2/2/2 RPC row. Stretch draft excluder evenly between front edges and pin into place. Sew along top, bottom and sides, taking care not to allow stitches to show through to the right side.
Install zipper: Using the techniques described here, prepare zipper using a knit picker to pull loops of yarn through the zipper tape and onto the larger straight needle.
Measure zipper panel before preparing zipper. If zipper is too long, fold the excess at the top to the wrong side and stitch into place. Using the techniques described here, prepare zipper using a knit picker to pull loops of yarn through the zipper tape and onto the larger straight needle.
Return Zipper Panel sts to the circular needle. With right side facing, hold zipper stitches behind panel stitches, being very sure the zipper is aligned correctly. Using the second larger needle to work the stitches, bind off using three-needle bind off. When working the three needle bind off, wrap the yarn as you would for Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off before working each pair of stitches.
Weave in ends. Sew down zipper tape ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Jodie likes to play with sticks and string in the beautiful foothills of the Appalachian mountains.
Her children gave her the nickname Queenie - and because they used it lovingly she borrowed it for her little design business: QueenieKnits. She is Jodiemom on Ravelry. She can't read Japanese but is grateful to the author of this book for the inspiration for this design.
