With this, the first column of the new year, I would like to look at something less formal, yet equally important in the hearts and stomachs of North American drinkers: Tequila and Mezcal!
There is as much myth and misinformation swirling around these two liquors as there is about the fall of the Mayan empire. Only mention the words, and you will be inundated with stories about the mythic "drug- like" qualities these liquors possess and their peculiar origins. Because the spelling of Mezcal is sufficiently close to that of "mescaline", it is often attributed with properties that it doesn't deserve. Although it's certainly true that drinking a litre of Tequila or Mezcal can induce states of confusion and unreality, the same can be said for drinking a litre of "Thunderbird" wine.
Tequila and Mezcal are not made from cacti! Both liquors are made from 1" various types of Maguey plants (members of the Agave family), the taste and quality being determined by the type of plant used. The confusion probably stems from the fact that both cacti and magueys are part of a larger botanical classification known as "succulents".
Tequila is a type of mezcal and is more properly known as "Mezcal de Tequila", just as various grape wines are known by the names of regions where they are produced. Mezcal is made both legally and illegally almost anywhere in Mexico where maguey plants are grown, but the most well known is from Oaxaca. True tequila is made only from the blue agave, and gets its name from the town which is located in the state of Jalisco, the premier growing area for quality tequilas. It is difficult to ascertain when the name of the drink became synonymous with that of the town. At the Chicago World's Fair of 1893 an award was given to a "mezcal brandy" made in the town of Tequila, and in 1910 at a fair in San Antonio an award was given WQ, to a "Tequila Wine". Since then, the word "Tequila" has been sufficient, although most labels still contain some reference to the agave and mezcal.
The worm which is seen in the bottom of mezcal bottles is never found in bottled tequila. It is a type of fat grub that lives in the maguey plants used for mezcal production, and is normally added to every bottle of mezcal. Mezcal drinkers have often attributed hallucinogenic experiences to eating the little worm; but again this is solely the stuff of fiction, each worm containing no more than a small concentration of alcohol which it has soaked in. The tiny bag attached to the neck of most mezcal bottles contains worm salt, normally composed of dried and ground maguey worms, chili, and salt, and is used as a chaser.
Tequila and mezcal have become synonymous with Mexico culture. It is worth noting that the pre-conquest Indians did not drink high- proof alcohol, and it was only the hard-drinking Spaniards who, after having consumed their own limited supply of hard spirits, began to look for local raw materials from which to make liquor. Curiously, the Spaniards largely ignored corn, which was in great supply, otherwise bourbon might have been linked with Mexico City instead of Kentucky! It was the sweet sap of the maguey which won favour, and today we enjoy the fruits of that decision. Salud!
