Fort Smith's history began because of the Slave River and the vital link it provided
for the water traffic between southern Canada and the Western Arctic. Early fur traders
found a well-worn portage route from what is now Fort Fitzgerald, Alberta on the western
bank of the Slave River to Fort Smith. This route allowed one to navigate the four sets of
impassible rapids - Cassette Rapids, Pelican Rapids, Mountain Rapids and Rapids of the
Drowned. The portage trail had been traditionally used by local aboriginal people for
centuries.
The aboriginal population of the region shifted as the fortunes of the tribes changed.
By 1870, Cree had occupied the Slave River Valley. The Slavey had moved north by this time
and the Southerly Caribou Chipewyan had also begun moving into the area.
When the Hudson's Bay Company learned of the area in 1715, it sent William Steward to
establish trade with the local population. He is acknowledged as being the first
"white man" in the Mackenzie region. In 1872, the Hudson's Bay Company built an
outpost called Smith's Landing at the most southern set of rapids. In 1874, another
outpost was constructed at the most northern set of rapids and called Fort Smith. Both
posts having been named in honour of Donald Alexander Smith, later Lord Strathcona. He was
a Hudson's Bay Company governor, a member of the first Northwest Territories Council and
was later head of the Canadian Pacific Railway.
In 1876, the Roman Catholic Mission was moved from Salt River to Fort Smith while the
community was prospering. At this time the famous Hudson's Bay Company " York
Boat" was being replaced by the "Sturgeon" and the "Chipewyan
Skiff". Later all these boats were replaced by sternwheelers. The Hudson Bay Company
was sending twelve barges a year to northern locations. In 1898, the Yukon Gold Rush
brought many gold seekers over the portages and through Fort Smith.
In 1911, government was established in Fort Smith when Ottawa sent an Indian Affairs
agent, a regional medical doctor and the Royal Canadian Mounted Police opened a
detachment. With these developments, Fort Smith became not only the transportation centre
for the Western Arctic but the administrative one as well.
The mission sawmill produced lumber for the first hospital, St. Anne's, built in 1914
for the Grey Nuns. The sawmill also supplied the lumber for the first school built in
1915. Also maintained by the Roman Catholic Mission was St. Bruno's Farm that supplied
produce, meat and dairy. Until it was closed in the 1920's the farm supplied all the
Church's Missions in the Western Arctic maintaining a herd of more than 140 cattle.
With the discovery of oil at Norman Wells, a federal government administration building
was constructed to house the new Northwest Territories Branch and the first Court of
Justice in the Mackenzie District. When the Wood Buffalo national Park was established in
1922, its operations and administration were centred in Fort Smith.
In 1925, Fort Smith received the first Royal Canadian Corps of Signals air radio
station in the NWT. An airport was later built in 1928.
The discovery of gold in Yellowknife in 1938 meant a "boom" to Fort Smith as
many prospectors came rushing through. In the same year, an Anglican Mission house was
built and a church was added in 1939.
When huge armies raged across the globe in the Second World War Fort Smith played its
own small part in the war effort. With a population of 250, Fort Smith hosted 2,000 United
States Army soldiers in 1942. The soldiers were en route to the Canol Oil Pipeline Project
at Norman Wells. With them they brought hundreds of barge loads of supplies but in order
to move these they needed to build a tractor road to Hay River and farther North. This
road allowed Fort Smith to receive goods from Edmonton during the winter months.
The continued gold fever that fueled Yellowknife's growth also allowed Fort Smith's
population to grow fivefold in the decade following 1945. This was a reflection of the
increase in government administrative facilities and the growth of its role as a
transportation hub for the Mackenzie District.
Fort Smith was incorporated as a village in 1964 and in two short years later, with a
population of 2,130, became a town on October 1, 1966. The all-weather road to Hay River
was officially completed in 1966 as well, permanently linking Fort Smith to the South by
road.
The completion of a southern rail link to Hay River in 1964 meant that Fort Smith's
role as the transportation hub was largely eliminated and subsequently barge operations on
the Slave River ceased in 1968. When Yellowknife became the official Territorial capital
in 1967, Fort Smith still remained the administrative centre of the Government of the
NWT's vast region.
On Friday August 9, 1968 disaster struck Fort Smith when a landslide some 3,300 feet
(1,000m) by 990 feet (300m) broke away from the riverbank causing property damage and
killing one person. The riverbank area has since been sloped to stabilize it and now the
gentle hillside is known as the Riverbank Park, complete with groomed trails, picnic areas
and viewing platform where one can see the Rapids of the Drowned.
In 1970, an Adult Vocational Training Centre was opened. Its operations were later
expanded and in 1981 it became Thebacha College. A few years later, Arctic College was
created by the Government of the NWT and the Thebacha Campus was also home to the
headquarter offices. Most recently, the college has changed it's name to Aurora College to
allow Nunavut the use of the Arctic College name.
Today, Fort Smith is based on an economy of federal, territorial and aboriginal
government along with education, tourism and forestry. The 2,480 residents enjoy a range
of modern conveniences and commercial services. Phase one of a multi-purpose recreation
complex was completed in 1998. It boasts a new curling rink, large gymnasium, senior
citizen's lounge, racquetball court, Aurora College student's lounge, weight room and
children's activity rooms.
In 1999, Fort Smith will host the Treaty 8 Celebrations that recognizes the 100 years
that have passed since the treaty was signed. Plans are underway to allow the Trans-Canada
Trail to pass through the old portage routes into Fort Smith then along the Slave River to
Fort Resolution.
Below is an unedited article from the book "On the Banks of the Slave -
A history of the community of Fort Smith, Northwest Territories" Copyright
Canada 1974 by Department of Education, Government of the Northwest Territories pages 12
and 13.
"Fort Smith may perhaps be described as the capital of the Northwest Territories,
though it lies on the extreme border of the latter. The line of latitude 60°N runs a few
hundred yards south of the little town and Fitzgerald is some fifteen miles within
Alberta. The reason for founding of Fort Smith is still quite apparent for just
above the wharves a broad belt of granite crosses the river and the rapids can be seen
from where the boats tie up.
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