The Colliery Route
Some of the earliest sites of permanent European settlement on Cape Breton island are found along the Colliery Route and the Marconi trail and can be directly linked to the presence of coal seams within their bounds. The inhabitants of Louisbourg began extracting coal from exposed seams along the cliffs from Port Morien to Lingan shortly after the French settlement began in 1713. Seven years later, in 1720, they opened the first organized coal mine in North America at Port Morien. The output from this mine was used to fuel the mighty Fortress of Louisbourg. Known in local circles as the "French mine," a cairn marking this historic event has been erected close to the former site of the pioneer colliery. After the first siege of Fortress Louisbourg in 1748, Lieutenant Rhodes of William Pepperell’s conquering regiment built a small fort (Fort William) in the Table Head area of Glace Bay to protect a coal mine located there. Both the fort and the mine were eventually abandoned but they served as the basis for what became a bustling coal town. The rich seams of coal that criss-cross the area have lured generations of miners who made and continue to make their living by extracting this fossil fuel from the pits. A hardy breed, the colliers gave their sweat and sometimes their very lifeblood to the dark and dangerous mines and helped establish the towns and villages dotting the coastline. Glace Bay, New Waterford, Dominion, Lingan, Birch Grove, Port Morien, Donkin, Gardiner Mines, Reserve Mines, Victoria Mines, New Victoria, Broughton – all were founded on coal. Without the production from their mines, it is unlikely that the development of industrial Cape Breton would have taken place. GLACE BAY Following the formation of the Dominion Coal Company in 1893, a number of mines were opened in what was destined to become Glace Bay. Small communities grew up around the pitheads and by 1901 they came together to form the Town of Glace Bay. At the time of incorporation, the population was 6,945. By the 1940s, the figure exceeded 28,000 and Glace Bay became Canada’s largest town. In its heyday, the town had 12 collieries. Today it has none. The population has decreased to just over 19,000 but Glace Bay remains Nova Scotia’s fourth largest urban area and the largest town in Atlantic Canada. THE MINERS’ MUSEUM The Museum, located on the brink of the Atlantic Ocean, is a visitor’s portal into the colourful history of coal mining. Many exhibits focus on the geological development of Cape Breton’s coal field and the various techniques that have been used to mine these rich seams. A visit would be incomplete without touring the Ocean Deeps Colliery, an underground coal mine located at the museum. A retired miner will act as your guide during a 20-minute excursion into a "room and pillar" mine of the 1930s. He will undoubtedly tell tales of his own mining experiences, making the trip all the more enjoyable. On return to the surface, take part in a simulated trip into a modern coal mine. Seated in the man rake you will experience an audio-visual journey underground into a world seldom viewed by those outside the industry. THE GLACE BAY HERITAGE MUSEUM This museum is situated on McKeen Street. Built in 1902, it served as Glace Bay’s Town Hall for 85 years. The Glace Bay Historical Society acquired it in 1989 and has undertaken restoration. The building’s architectural integrity will be preserved as well as its historic value as the Town’s first municipal government offices. The old Court Room has been restored and the Council Chamber has been decorated as it was in 1967. An interesting Sports Museum is on the second floor. The town’s memorial to its deceased coal miners is located on the grounds. THE SAVOY THEATRE The community’s younger adults remember the Savoy Theatre on Union Street as a movie house but older residents remember far more. They remember it as a full-fledged music hall, a vaudeville theatre and later, a silent movie theatre. Today the Savoy has reverted to its original role and has become Cape Breton’s premiere site for live entertainment. Built in 1927, the Savoy Theatre is renowned as Cape Breton’s cultural center. The restored interior with its excellent acoustics recall the splendour of the 1920s. The decor is a "must see" while in Glace Bay, as are the varieties of entertainment staged there throughout the year. Many of the island’s most renowned performers, including Rita MacNeil, the Rankin Family, the Barra MacNeils, Winnie Chafe and the Men of the Deeps entertain here. GLACE BAY HARBOUR The harbour was once the site of a very active commercial fishing operation. In the early 1950s, Glace Bay was the sword fishing capital of Canada. However, the recent closure of much of the fishing grounds resulted in a diminished role for the port. Two processing plants continue to operate and a seasonal lobster fishery is carried on in late spring and early summer. The area is a popular destination for photographers, artists or those who simply seek a place to relax. On either side of the inlet, park areas afford scenic views of the ocean and the hustle and bustle of the inner harbour. Ample parking is close by. A visitor will find leisure walkways and picnic tables conveniently placed. RENWICK BROOK One of the largest municipal park complexes on the island is in the area of Renwick Brook. There is convenient access to beautiful walking trails on either side of the brook at the Commercial Street bridge in the heart of downtown Glace Bay. The trails follow the brook between Brookside and Catherine Streets and lead to Queen Elizabeth Park. These tree-lined trails provide calm, quiet venues for leisurely walks or vigorous jogs. Queen Elizabeth Park contains a band shell, children’s play areas, lighted tennis courts and one of the finest Little League Baseball parks in Canada. The trail continues on towards Dominion Street, ending where the home and birthplace of world-renowned Canadian author Hugh MacLennan once stood. Newsom United Church now occupies the site. A monument was erected by the church to honour the town’s famous native son. A monument to coal miner and union leader James B. MacLachlan stands at the entrance to Renwick Brook on Brookside street. Mr. MacLachlan was jailed for his union activities and was fired and barred from further employment by the coal company during the turbulent 1900s. JOHN BERNARD CROAK MEMORIAL PARK This is a charming and colourful park with a lighted fountain, park benches and off-street parking. It honours Glace Bay native John Bernard Croak, Cape Breton’s only winner of Canada’s highest military honour, the Victoria Cross.
PORT MORIEN Port Morien is a community of firsts. In addition to being the site of North America’s first coal mine, it is also the location of the first boy scout troop on this continent. Just one year after Lord Baden Powell began England’s Scouting Movement in 1908, William Glover, a coal company official, organized a troop of 10 young boys at Port Morien. A cairn commemorating the event can be seen at the northern entrance of the community. CAPE PERCE NATURE TRAIL A privately operated nature tour at Cape Perce, a must for nature lovers, is located on the Marconi Trail overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The tour features some of the most picturesque scenery on the island. DONKIN Donkin was the site of one of the many coal mine operations that were carried out throughout the region. The village is famous throughout Nova Scotia and beyond for its award-winning Donkin Citizen’s Brass Band that has performed continuously since 1919. WILD BIRD SANCTUARY From the Donkin highway, a gravelled access road leads to Big Glace Bay Lake. The lake and its surrounding shoreline, fronting on the Marconi Trail, is a designated wild bird sanctuary. It is a popular spot for nature lovers and bird watchers year round but particularly during migration seasons. Adjacent to the sanctuary is Big Glace Bay Beach, a popular swimming area for local residents and visitors alike. |
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