Using a tape measure, measure the chest circumference of the wearer, at the widest point of the chest. Add six inches of ease and begin your calculations:

Calculation	Unit		Sample	My #s
Chest circumference plus 6 inches ease, measured in inches	inches	A	43
Stitch gauge per inch	sts/inch	B	4.5
Row gauge per inch	rows/inch	C	6
Multiply A and B, round to nearest multiple of 4 [Number of sts around body of sweater]	sts	D	192
Multiply D by 0.9, round to nearest multiple of 8 [Number of sts to CO]	sts	E	176
Multiply A and C [Length in rows, doubled; used for other calculations]	rounds	F	258
Divide E by 2. Subtract 4. [Number of sts between side "seams" ]	sts	G	84
Multiply F by 0.05, round to nearest whole number [Number of rows of ribbing to be worked; also number of sts in gusset]	rnds	H	13
Subtract E from D [Number of sts to be increased after ribbing]	sts	I	16
Divide E by I (include fractions) [Approx. number of sts between increases]	sts	J	11
Divide F by 2. Add H. [Length in rows]	rnds	K	142
Multiply F by 0.06, round to nearest whole number [Minimum number of rows in stockinette st section]	rnds	L	15
Subtract L from K. Subtract 9. [Maximum number of rows in patterned section]	rnds	M	118
Divide M by 16, round DOWN to nearest whole number [Number of whole repeats of Chain Cable Pattern]	repeats	N	7
Multiply N by 16 [Actual number of rows to be worked in patterned section]	rnds	O	112
Subtract O from M [Number of rows to be added to stockinette st section]	rnds	P	6
Add L and P [Number of rows in stockinette st section]	rnds	Q	21
Multiply D by 0.2, round to nearest multiple of 4 [Number of back neck stitches; also number of sts in cuff]	sts	R	40
Add 4 to R [Number of sts in center panel]	sts	S	44
Divide D by 2 [Total number of sts for front or back]	sts	T	96
Subtract S from T. Subtract 28. [Number of sts in side panels]	sts	U	24
Divide U by 2 [Number of sts to be worked in stockinette st, in each side panel]	sts	V	13
Divide F by 4, round to nearest whole number [Number of rows from top to start gusset]	rnds	W	65
Divide F by 6, round to nearest whole number. Add 16. [Number of rows from top to start Anchor Panel]	rnds	X	59
Add 3 to O. Subtract W. [Number of row in patterned section in which to begin gusset]	rnds	Y	50
Add 3 to O. Subtract X. If necessary, round down to nearest even number. [Number of row in patterned section in which to begin working Anchor Panel]	rnds	Z	56
Subract 24 from S, divide by 2 [Number of sts in center panel on either side of Anchor Panel]	sts	AA	10
Add Y and H [Row number at which Front and Back will be divided and worked separately]	rnds	BB	62
Multiply D by 0.15, round to nearest multiple of 4 [Number of front neck stitches]	sts	CC	28
Subtract CC from R [Difference between front and back neck sts]	sts	DD	12
Add 1 to O. Subtract DD. [Row number at which front neck shaping will begin]	row	EE	101
Add 8 to T. Subtract CC. Divide by 2. [Number of sts to work before placing neck sts on st holder]	sts	FF	38
Divide DD by 2. Subtract from FF. Subtract 5. [Final Number of sts in each shoulder]	sts	GG	27
Subtract H from T [Number of sts in sleeve after gusset sts have been decreased]	sts	HH	83
Multiply D by 0.24; round to nearest odd number if HH is odd, or to nearest even number if HH is even [Number of sts rem in sleeve before final decrease round for cuff]	sts	II	47
Multiply H by 4. Subtract from K. [Number of rounds in sleeve, between end of gusset and decrease round for cuff]	rnds	JJ	90
Subtract II from HH [Number of sts to be decreased over JJ rows]	sts	KK	36
Divide JJ by KK. Multiply by 2, round to nearest whole number. [Number of sleeve rounds worked per pair of sleeve decreases]	rnds	LL	5
Subtract R from II [Number of sts to decrease in final decrease round before cuff]	sts	MM	7
Multiply D by 0.45, round to nearest multiple of 4 [Number of sts in collar]	sts	NN	88
Add R and CC. Subtract from NN. Divide by 2. [Number of sts to pick up along each side of front neckline]	sts	OO	10

Body

Bottom Ribbing
Using circular needle, CO _____ (E) sts.
(My favorite CO method for ribbing is the Twisted German Cast-On. If you aren't familiar with it, you can find instructions online here.

Place marker and join to begin working in the round.
Work the first round of ribbing as follows:
P1, [k2, p2] for _____ (G) sts, k2, p1, place marker, p1, [k2, p2] for _____ (G) sts, k2, p1.

Work in rib as set until _____ (H) rounds of ribbing have been worked.

If you would like a narrower or wider band of ribbing at the hips, feel free to work more or fewer rounds.

Stockinette St Section
The next row will be an increase row. You will be increasing _____ (I) sts, evenly distributed around the circumference of the sweater. This corresponds (roughly) to increasing every _____ (J) stitches. Your number for (J) may not be a whole number. If this is the case, use your best judgment to distribute the increases evenly. For example, if (J) = 8.25, you may choose to increase after every 8th st three times, then after the 9th st once, then repeat this increase pattern around the sweater.

Work the increase row as follows: P1, k to 1 st before second marker, increasing evenly as described above, p2, k to 1 st before end-of-round marker, increasing evenly as described above, p1.

Note: I found the best increase to use is m1kf. Do not work increases in the purl sts on either side of the markers.

After the increase row, you should have _____ (D) sts on the needle. Continue working for _____ (Q) rounds, knitting all sts except for the two purl sts on either side of each marker. These purl sts will serve as mock seams (a design element); these vertical columns of purl sts will extend all the way up both sides, around the underarm gussets, and down the undersides of each sleeve.

If you feel comfortable doing so, you may remove the markers once the columns are established; the mock seams also serve to delineate the front and back, and you can distinguish the beginning of the round by looking for your cast-on tail. From now on, I will refer to the beginning-of-round mock seam as the left seam (since it goes up the left side of the garment when worn), and to the other mock seam as the right seam.

Definition Ridge and Patterned Section
After working _____ (Q) rounds, work 5 rounds in Garter Stitch.

These rounds create what Beth Brown-Reinsel calls a "definition ridge" which separates the area of plain knitting (which you just finished) from the beginning of the patterned section (which you will begin in the next round).

The next two rounds are set-up rounds. Since a cable pattern will be introduced, it is necessary to increase some stitches to compensate for how the cable will pull in the fabric. Five stitches will be added for each of the four cable panels, for a total increase of 20 stitches.

Work the set-up rounds as follows:
Set-up Round 1: [P1, k _____ (V), [p1, m1p, k2] four times, p1, m1p, k _____ (S) (Row 1 of Dot Stitch), [p1, m1p, k2] four times, p1, m1p, k _____ (V), p1] twice. You should now have (D) + 20 sts on the needle.

Set-up Round 2: [P1, k _____ (V), [p2, k2] four times, p2, [k1, p1] over _____ (S) sts (Row 2 of Dot Stitch), [p2, k2] four times, p2, k _____ (V), p1] twice.

Now you will begin working the patterned area. For the cable panels, refer to the Chain Cable chart. Since you are currently working in the round, read the chart from bottom to top, right to left on every row. Use only the Right Side directions.

Pattern Round 1: [P1, k _____ (V), work Row 1 of Chain Cable, work _____ (S) sts in Dot Stitch as set, work Row 1 of Chain Cable, k _____ (V), p1] twice.

Work in patt as set. Dot Stitch repeats every four rows; Chain Cable repeats every sixteen rows. All in all, you will be completing _____ (N) repeats of the Chain Cable. However, before you knit away, you first need to determine whether the next significant event of the pattern is the Anchor Panel or the underarm gussets. (In most cases, it will be the gussets; however, for smaller sizes worked in heavier yarn it may be the panel.)

What is an underarm gusset? In most garments with sleeves, the underarm is a point where three seams meet: the body seam, the sleeve seam, and the sleeve-to-body seam. This places stress on that point, making it more susceptible to wear. Gansey knitters of old recognized this fact and developed triangular or diamond-shaped underarm gussets to relieve the stress point and to allow greater arm movement. On the first row of the gusset, you will increase one stitch between the two purl stitches. From then on, you will work paired increases every other row just inside the purl stitches, until all gusset increase rows have been worked. Before you begin working the gusset, make a note of your calculation for (Z). If (Z) is less than (Y+3) then you will need to begin the Anchor Panel on Round Z, and work the gussets and the Anchor Panel simultaneously.

Underarm Gussets
and Anchor Panel Placement
Compare your calculated values for (W) and (X). If (W) is greater than (X), then you will start the gussets first; otherwise, you will start the Anchor Panel first.

Note: Although the Anchor Panel appears to encompass 25 sts, it begins and ends with 24 sts. One stitch is increased in row 6 and one stitch is decreased in row 28.

When you are working in the round, read the chart from bottom to top and right to left on every row, using the Right Side directions only. When you finish the underarm gussets and begin working flat, you will read the chart back and forth, using both Right Side and Wrong Side directions.

IF YOU ARE STARTING THE ANCHOR PANEL FIRST:
Work in established patterns until you reach Pattern Round _____ (Z).

Pattern Round _____ (Z ):
P1, k _____ (V),
work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set,
work _____ (AA) sts in Dot Stitch as set, work Row 1 of Anchor Panel (24 sts),
work _____ (AA) sts in Dot Stitch as set, work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set,
k _____ (V),
p2 (right seam),
k _____ (V),
work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set,
work _____ (S) sts in Dot Stitch as set, work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set,
k _____ (V), p1.

Continue working in patt as set until you reach Pattern Round _____ (Y), the first gusset round. Follow the directions below under "If you are starting the gussets first" -- however, keep working the anchor panel as established (it will not be indicated in the directions that follow).

IF YOU ARE STARTING THE GUSSETS FIRST:
Work in established patterns until you reach Pattern Round _____ (Y).

Pattern Round _____ (Y+1): [K1, p1, k _____ (V), work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set, work _____ (S) sts in Dot Stitch as set, work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set, k _____ (V), p1] twice.

Pattern Round _____ (Y+2): [K1, m1kf, p1, k _____ (V), work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set, work _____ (S) sts in Dot Stitch as set, work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set, k _____ (V), p1, m1kb] twice. You should now have (D) + 24 sts on the needle.

Continue working the gusset as established; increasing two sts every other row as in Row Y+2, until _____ (H) rounds of the gusset have been worked, remembering to begin the Anchor Panel when you have reached Row Z. (See above, in the section marked "If you are working the Anchor Panel first" for instructions on placement of the panel.)

There is a very slight chance that you will complete the gusset before beginning the Anchor Panel (this would only occur if you are working the gansey for a very large person using thinner yarn); if this is the case, skip down to the section on dividing into front and back, but remember to start the Anchor Panel on Row Z -- you will be working back and forth for the entire panel.

Divide Front and Back

Pattern Row _____ (BB): Work gusset including left side seam st, then place entire gusset, including both seam sts, onto a stitch holder or waste yarn. Continue working row: k _____ (V), work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set, work _____ (AA) sts of Dot Stitch as set, work Anchor Panel as set, work _____ (AA) sts of Dot Stitch as set, work 18 sts of Chain Cable in established pattern, k _____ (V).
Set aside the current ball of yarn but do not break yarn; you will use this ball later to complete the front. Place the right underarm gusset sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn, then join a new ball of yarn and continue working across the back: k _____ (V), work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set, work _____ (S) sts of Dot Stitch as set, work 18 sts of Chain Cable as set, k _____ (V). Place all front sts on stitch holder or waste yarn.

Working back and forth, continue working the back in patt as set. You should have (U) + (S) + 36 sts. On wrong side rows, begin using the Wrong Side row directions on charts and stitch patterns. Continue until you have completed _____ (O) rows in the Patterned Section.

Work one RS row in patt as set.

Back Finishing Row [WS]: P _____ (V), [ssk, p2] four times, ssk, work _____ (S) sts in Dot Stitch as set, [ssk, p2] four times, ssk, p _____ (V). You should now have (U) + (S) + 26 sts.

Place back stitches on a stitch holder or waste yarn.

Upper Front
Place front stitches on needle and continue working in established patterns until you have completed the row before Pattern Row _____ (EE).

Pattern Row _____ (EE): Work _____ (FF) sts in patt as set , place next _____ (CC) sts on stitch holder or waste yarn, join new ball of yarn and work remaining _____ (FF) sts in patt as set.

Working both shoulders at once, shape neckline by decreasing one st at neck edge of each side every other RS row. Use an appropriate slanting decrease for each side: ssk on right side, k2tog on left.

Cont until Pattern Row _____ (O) has been completed.

Work 1 RS row in patt as set, continuing decreases at neck edges.

Front Finishing Row [WS]: Right Shoulder: P _____ (V), [ssk, p2] four times, ssk, work in Dot Stitch as set to neck edge; Left Shoulder: Work in Dot Stitch as set to beginning of Chain Cable panel, [ssk, p2] four times, ssk, p _____ (V). You should have _____ (GG) sts remaining on each shoulder.

Join shoulders using Three-Needle Bind Off.

____ (R) back neck sts and _____ (CC) front neck sts remain on hold.

Sleeves
Place held sts from one gusset on a double-pointed needle. Rejoin yarn and using double-pointed needles, work these sts in patt, then pick up and k ____(HH-2) sts around armhole. _____ (T) sts on needles, including gusset sts.

Work one round in stockinette st, maintaining seam sts on either side of gusset. (Seam and gusset sts will mark beginning of round.)

Next Round: P1, ssk, k to last 2 sts of gusset, k2tog, p1, k to end.

Work 1 round in stockinette st, maintaining seam sts.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 3 gusset sts remain.

Next Round: P1, slip next 2 sts together as if to k2tog, k next st, pass both slipped sts over last st, p1, k to end.
Work 1 round as set.
Next Round: p2tog, p1, k to end.
You should have _____ (HH) sts on the needles.
Work 1 round as set.
Decrease Round: P2, k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk.
Repeat this round every _____ (LL) rounds until ______(II) sts remain.
Cont in stockinette st, maintaining seam sts, until you have worked (JJ + H) sleeve rounds (including gusset rounds).
On the next round, decrease _____ (MM) sts evenly. You should have _____ (R) sts remaining.
Next Round: Using smaller double-pointed needles, [p2, k2] around.
Repeat this round until _____ (H) rounds have been worked, or until the cuff is desired length. BO loosely in patt.
Work other sleeve in the same manner.

Neckband
Place back and front neck stitches on smaller double-pointed needles. Join yarn at left shoulder, k back neck sts, pick up and k _____(OO) sts along right side of front neckline, k held front neck sts, pick up and k _____(OO) sts along left side of front neckline. You should have _____ (NN) sts.

Next Round: [K2, p2] around.
Repeat this round until neckband is desired depth. BO all sts loosely in patt.