  by
Jodi Green
This rockabilly inspired skirt is
hot hot hot: guaranteed to make you the belle of the
bowling alley.
Customize with embroidery, optional
drawstring or elastic waistband, a sassy lining or
no lining at all.
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model: Jodi
Green
photos: Peter
Zimmerman
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| S [M, L, XL, XXL] (shown in
size M) |
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Waist: 33[36, 38, 41, 43] inches
Hip: 37[40, 42, 45, 47] inches
Length: 19.5[20, 20.5, 21, 21.5] inches
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[MC] Garnstudio Paris [100% cotton; 82yd/75m
per 50g skein]; color: #15 Black; 7[8, 8, 9,
10] skeins
[CC] Garnstudio Paris [100% cotton; 82yd/75m
per 50g skein]; color: #12 Red; 4[5, 5, 5,
6] skeins
1 30-inch US #6/4mm circular needle
1 4mm crochet hook (optional; for drawstring)
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
1 piece 1-inch elastic, 2 inches smaller than your
actual waist measurement (optional)
6 skeins DMC #444 yellow embroidery floss (optional)
1 to 1.5 yards fabric for lining (optional)
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20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette stitch
Note:
if substituting yarn, use a yarn with a recommended
gauge of 17 sts/22 rows to 4 inches. The yarn is intentionally
knit tighter for this pattern to help prevent the
skirt from sagging
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations
can be found here]
To work the two color section,
I carried very long strands of the non-working
yarn behind the working yarn rather than weaving
the non-working yarn behind all stitches, because
weaving-in can show when using cotton. If you
do not wish to put a lining in your skirt, you
will need to carry shorter floats behind your
work; this will require swatching for gauge,
as you might need to go to a smaller needle
size in order to maintain the correct gauge
in this section.
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Hem Ruffle
Using CC, CO 530[560, 600, 640, 660] sts.
Place marker and join to begin working in the round,
being careful not to twist.
Rounds 1-3: [K8, p2] around.
Round 4: [Ssk, k4, k2tog, p2] around.
Rounds 5-6: [K6, p2] around.
Round 7: [Ssk, k2, k2tog, p2]
around.
Rounds 8-9: [K4, p2] around.
Round 10: [Ssk, k2tog, p2] around.
Rounds 11-13: [K2, p2] around. 212[224, 240,
256, 264] sts rem.
Fair Isle Section
Join MC. You will be working
the flame pattern in two colors, carrying the non-working
yarn behind the working yarn throughout.
It may be helpful to place st markers between chart
sections, and to mark the placement of any extra
MC sts between chart sections. These extra markers
should be removed once the colorwork sections are
finished.
Set up row: Work Row 1 of color charts as instructed
for your size.
Size S: Chart A, 2 sts MC, Chart B, 1 st MC,
Chart C, 2 sts MC, Chart D, 1 sts MC, Chart B, 2
sts MC, Chart C, 1 st MC, Chart D, 1 st MC.
Size M: [Chart A, Chart B, Chart C, Chart D]
twice. No additional MC sts necessary.
Size L: [Chart A, 2 sts MC, Chart B, 2 sts MC,
Chart C, 2 sts MC, Chart D, 2 sts MC] twice.
Size XL: Chart A, Chart B, 1 st MC, Chart C,
Chart D, 1 st MC, Chart A, Chart B, 1 st MC, Chart
D, Chart C, 1 st MC, Chart D.
Size XXL: Chart A, Chart B, Chart C, 1 st MC,
Chart D, Chart B, Chart A, Chart B, 1 st MC, Chart
C, Chart D.
Work through all rounds
of color charts in pattern as established.
Break CC, and cont with MC only. Remember
to remove any extra st markers at this point.
Next Round: K 106[112, 120, 128, 132], place
marker, k to end.
Shape Hips
and Waist
Decrease Round: K2tog, k to marker, k2tog,
k to end.
Work 3[3, 2, 2] rounds even.
Repeat these 4[4, 3, 3, 3] rounds 12[12, 14, 15,
14] times more. 186[198, 210, 224, 234] sts rem.
Work Decrease Round as above.
Work 2[3, 3, 3, 4] rounds even.
Repeat these 3[4, 4, 4, 5] rounds 3[4, 7, 2, 5]
times more. 178[188, 194, 218, 222] sts rem.
Work Decrease Round as above.
Work 1[2, 4, 4, 5] rounds even.
Repeat these 2[3, 5, 5, 6] rounds 5[4, 1, 6, 3]
times.
Work 4[0, 0, 2, 2] rounds even. 166[178, 190, 204,
214] sts rem.
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 Waistband
OPTION #1: DRAWSTRING WAIST
Next Round: [YO twice,
k2tog] around.
Next Round: [K1 in YO, dropping extra wrap
from needle (you will create only one stitch in each
double YO), k1] around.
BO all sts loosely.
With crochet hook, make a crochet chain 40[42, 44,
48, 50] inches long and thread through eyelets for
drawstring.
OPTION
#2: ELASTIC WAIST
Work in St st for 1.25 inches,
purl 1 row, then cont in stockinette st for an additional
1.25 inches. BO all sts loosely.
Fold work over at purl row to form a casing, and sew
edge of to inside of skirt, leaving a small opening
for inserting the elastic. Cut a piece of elastic
2 inches smaller than your waist measurement, thread
into casing and sew ends together, being careful not
to twist elastic. Sew casing closed.
Block skirt
lightly.
 Embroidery
detail (optional)
Using darning needle
and twelve strands of DMC floss, work duplicate st
along edges of flames, using photos as guides. Working
duplicate sts over red sts in pattern.
Lining
(optional)
To cut lining, fold
lining fabric in half, lay blocked skirt on top and
cut two pieces of fabric one half inch larger than
skirt on all sides. Place right sides of lining pieces
together and sew side seams with a one half inch seam
allowance. Place lining inside skirt, wrong sides
together. Fold down top edge so that fold falls just
below eyelet row or elastic casing and hand stitch
lining to skirt. At hem, fold bottom edge of lining
so that fold lines up with top edge of ruffle, and
hand stitch lining to skirt.
Now pick yourself out a pretty
bowling ball and get ready to score.
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|  Jodi
Green is an artist and knitter currently living
in Windsor, Ontario. She has just committed
herself to three years in the southern US to
attend graduate school, and is now having to
re-evaluate all of
her wool sweater plans.
Visit her at her
blog
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| Pattern & images
© 2005 Jodi Green. Contact Jodi |
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