Leg
Loosely CO 54[63] sts, and distribute the sts between needles as follows:

Size M: 27 sts on each needle

Size L: 31 on Needle 1, 32 sts on Needle 2.

Use a safety pin or stitch marker to indicate which needle is Needle 1.

Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: [P3, k2, p2, k2] to end.

Repeat this round until work measures 1.25 inches.

Work Rounds 1-9 of Spiral Pattern six times, or until leg is desired length to top of heel.

Next Round: Work all sts on Needle 1 in pattern as set; do not work sts on Needle 2.

Choose Flap Heel or Short Row Heel, and proceed to the directions for that heel and foot.

Flap Heel
Flap Heel is worked back and forth over sts on Needle 2 only.

Size M Only: Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, m1, [sl 1, k1] to end of Needle 2. 28 sts. Turn work.

Size L Only: Row 1 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] to end of Needle 2. 32 sts. Turn work.

All Sizes:
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end.
Row 3 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] to end.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 12[14] times more, then work Row 2 once more. 28[32] rows have been worked.

Turn Heel:
K16[18], ssk, k1. Turn work.
Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Sl 1, k6, ssk, k1. Turn work.
Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1. Turn work.
Sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Sl 1, k10, ssk, k1. Turn work.
Sl 1, p11, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Sl 1, k12, ssk, k1. Turn work.
Sl 1, p13, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

Size M Only:
Sl 1, k14, ssk. Turn work.
Sl 1, p14, p2tog. 16 sts remain. Turn work.

K all sts on Needle 2, pick up and k 15 sts along edge of Heel Flap and 1 st in space between flap and top of foot; using Needle 1, work sts for top of foot as follows: pfb, work in Spiral Pattern as set to last st on Needle 1, m1, p1; using Needle 2, pick up and k 1 st in space between top of foot and flap, pick up and k 15 sts along remaining edge of flap, k remaining sts on Needle 2. 29 sts on Needle 1, 48 sts on Needle 2.

Size L Only:
Sl 1, k14, ssk, k1. Turn work.
Sl 1, p15, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Sl 1, k16, ssk. Turn work.
Sl 1, p16, p2tog. 18 sts remain. Turn work.

K all sts on Needle 2, pick up and k 17 sts along edge of Heel Flap and 1 st in space between flap and top of foot; using Needle 1, work sts for top of foot as follows: p2tog, work in Spiral Pattern as set to last 2 sts on Needle 1, p2tog; using Needle 2, pick up and k 1 st in space between top of foot and flap, pick up and k 17 sts along remaining edge of flap, k remaining sts on Needle 2. 29 sts on Needle 1, 54 sts on Needle 2.

Gusset

All Sizes:
Round 1: P1, work in Spiral Pattern as set to last st of Needle 1, p1; k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on Needle 2, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Round 2: P1, work in Spiral Pattern as set to last st of Needle 1, p1; k all sts on Needle 2.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2, 10[9] times more. 26[34] sts remain on Needle 2. 55[63] sts in total.

Size M Only:
Next Round: P1, work in Spiral Pattern as set to last st of Needle 1, p1; k to last 3 sts on Needle 2, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased. 25 sts on Needle 2; 54 sts in total.

All Sizes:
Continue working in pattern as set (as Round 2, above) until work measures 2[2.5] inches less than desired length.

Size M Only:
Sl first and last sts of Needle 1 to Needle 2. 27 sts on each needle.
Proceed to directions for Toe.

Size L Only:
Sl first and last sts of Needle 2 to Needle 1. 31 sts on Needle 1, 32 sts on Needle 2.
Proceed to directions for Toe.

Short Row Heel
Short row heel method from Simple Socks: Plain and Fancy by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts.

Heel is worked back and forth over sts on Needle 2. Yarn overs (yo) are worked at the turning point of each short row. These yarn overs are worked together with adjacent stitches on subsequent rows, to close the gaps which would otherwise form.

To work the yarn over when beginning a WS short row, bring yarn between needles to back of work, bring over right needle to front of work and proceed to p next st.

To work the yarn over when beginning a RS short row, bring yarn between needles to front of work, bring over right needle to back of work and proceed to p next st.

Decreasing Short Rows:
Row 1 [RS]: K26[31], turn work.
Row 2 [WS]: Yo, p25[30], turn work.
Row 3 [RS]: Yo, k24[29], turn work.
Continue working in this way, working each row 1 st shorter than the last, until:
Row 20[24] [WS]: Yo, p7[8], turn work.

Increasing Short Rows:
Row 1 [RS]: Yo, k7[8]; k2tog, working yo on left needle together with following st. Turn work.
Row 2 [WS]: Yo, p8[9]; sl yo on left needle knitwise to right needle, sl following st in the same way, sl both sts back to left needle and p2tog tbl. Turn work.
Row 3 [RS]: Yo, k9[10]; k3tog, working 2 yos on left needle together with following st. Turn work.
Row 4 [WS]: Yo, p10[11]; sl each of next 2 yos knitwise to right needle, sl following st in the same way, sl all 3 sts back to left needle and p3tog tbl. Turn work.
Continue working as for Rows 3 and 4, working each row longer than the last until:
Row 21[25] [RS]: Yo, k27[32]. All sts have been worked, 1 yo remains on left needle. Slip this yo to beginning of Needle 1. Slip the yo at the beginning of Needle 2, to end of Needle 1.

Foot may be worked either in Spiral Pattern for both instep and sole (as shown), or in Spiral Pattern for instep, and stockinette st for sole.

If working both instep and sole in Spiral Pattern, work as follows:
Next Round: Working in Spiral Pattern as set, work first st of Needle 1 together with yo at beginning of needle (k2tog or p2tog); work next 25[29] sts of Needle 1 in patterns as set, work last st on Needle 1 together with yo at end of needle; work all sts of Needle 2 in Spiral Pattern as established by sts of Needle 1.

Continue working in Spiral Pattern until work measures 2[2.5] inches less than desired length. Proceed to directions for Toe.

If working instep in Spiral Pattern and sole in stockinette st, work as follows:

Size M Only:
Next Round: Working in Spiral Pattern as set, work first st of Needle 1 together with yo at beginning of needle (k2tog or p2tog); work next 25 sts of Needle 1 in pattern as set, work last st on Needle 1 together with yo at end of needle; p1, k to last st of Needle 2, p1.

Next Round: Work all sts on Needle 1 in Spiral Pattern as set; p1, k to last st of Needle 2, p1.

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 2 inches less than desired length. Proceed to directions for Toe.

Size L Only:
Next Round: K first st on Needle 1 together with yo at beginning of needle, p1, work 27 sts in Spiral Pattern as set, p1, [ssk] last st of Needle 1 together with yo at end of needle; k all sts on Needle 2.

Next Round: K1, p1, work 27 sts on Spiral Pattern as set, p1, k1; k to end of round.

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 2.5 inches less than desired length. Proceed to directions for Toe.

Toe
These socks may be worked with either a Grafted Toe (shown on Flap Heel Sock), or with a Pointed Toe. The Pointed Toe echoes the spiral pattern and requires no grafting, while the Grafted Toe is familiar to most sock knitters, and flows easily from the stockinette sole.

Grafted Toe
Size M Only:
Next Round: K1, ssk, k all sts on Needle 1; k to last 3 sts of Needle 2, k2tog, k1. 52 sts.
K 2 rounds.

Size L Only:
K 3 rounds.
Next Round: K all sts on Needle 1; k to last 3 sts of Needle 2, k2tog, k1. 62 sts.
K 2 rounds.

All Sizes:
Round 1: [K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog, k1] twice. 4 sts decreased.
Round 2: K all sts. Repeat these 2 rounds 9[10] times more. 12[18] sts remain.
Graft sts of Needle 1 to sts of Needle 2.

Pointed Toe
Derived from Knitting Vintage Socks by Nancy Bush.
Size M Only:
Next Round: K1, ssk, k to end of Needle 1; k to last 3 sts of Needle 2, k2tog, k1. 52 sts.
K 4 rounds.

Next Round: K first 7 sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 2, this point (7 sts into top of toe) will be new beginning of round; using Needle 1, k all sts on Needle 1, then k first 7 sts of Needle 2; using Needle 2, k all sts on Needle 2. 26 sts on each needle; beginning of round has shifted 7 sts to the left.

Proceed to Round 10 below.

Size L Only:
Next Round: K all sts on Needle 1; k1, m1, k to end of Needle 2. 64 sts.
K 1 round.
Next Round: K first 7 sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 2, this point (7 sts into top of toe) will be new beginning of round; using Needle 1, k all sts on Needle 1, then k first 7 sts of Needle 2; using Needle 2, k all sts on Needle 2. 32 sts on each needle; beginning of round has shifted 7 sts to the left.

Proceed to Round 1 below.

Shape Toe:
Round 1: [Ssk, k14] 4 times. 60 sts.
Rounds 2 & 3: K all sts.
Round 4: [Ssk, k13] 4 times. 56 sts.
Rounds 5 & 6: K all sts.
Round 7: [Ssk, k12] 4 times. 52 sts.
Rounds 8 & 9: K all sts.

(Size M begin here)
Round 10: [Ssk, k11] 4 times. 48 sts.
Rounds 11 & 12: K all sts.
Round 13: [Ssk, k10] 4 times. 44 sts.
Rounds 14 & 15: K all sts.
Round 16: [Ssk, k9] 4 times. 40 sts.
Round 17: K all sts.
Round 18: [Ssk, k8] 4 times. 36 sts.
Round 19: K all sts.
Round 20: [Ssk, k7] 4 times. 32 sts.
Round 21: K all sts.
Round 22: [Ssk, k6] 4 times. 28 sts.
Round 23: [Ssk, k5] 4 times. 24 sts.
Round 24: [Ssk, k4] 4 times. 20 sts.
Round 25: [Ssk, k3] 4 times. 16 sts.
Round 26: [Ssk, k2] 4 times. 12 sts.
Round 27: [Ssk, k1] 4 times. 8 sts.
Round 28: [Ssk] 4 times. 4 sts.

Break yarn, draw through remaining sts and pull tight.