The Grande Plage, or Great Beach, on the Ile d’Oleron
off the West Coast of France must be one of the most beautiful
places on earth. Exposed to the ocean, it never looks
the same twice. At high tide, the waves roll right up
to the dunes, while at low tide you have to walk for almost
half a mile to reach the waterline. The ocean brings in
all kinds of flotsam: Shells, jellyfish in various colors,
driftwood and seaweed. Together with the sand, sky and
ocean, they create a glorious color scheme of dark blue,
aqua, beige and white.
When I was thinking about spinning for a summer cardigan,
I wanted to capture these colors and the summery, beachy
feeling I associate with them. The Grande Plage cardigan
is an easy to wear, tunic-length cardigan with a low neckline
and a slight a-line silhouette that flatters any figure
and looks just as nice over a sundress as with jeans and
a tank top. The Chevron Lace pattern beautifully shows
off the colors of yarn spun from hand-dyed roving. The
cardigan is worked top-down, seamless, with set in sleeves.
This construction makes it easy to adjust the pattern
on the go, e.g. if the gauge of your handspun is a little
inconsistent or if you want a shorter cardigan. The merino/bamboo
blend provides warmth without being too warm for summer.
This is also a great pattern for spinning novices and
non-spinners. If you don’t feel like spinning for
a whole cardigan, just substitute a commercial
yarn for the main color, or even combine
a commercial yarn and your handspun for
the Chevron Lace part. Or you could shorten
the cardigan all together for more of a
bolero style with maybe 3 inches of lace
trim. For non-spinners, this is a great
opportunity to indulge in some of the wonderful
hand-dyed sock and fingering weight yarns
available now.
Finished Yarn:
Wraps
per inch: 22 (plied)
Ply:
Chain ply (3-ply) Yardage
used:
[MC] Approx 283[319, 367, 420,
501, 589, 678] yards
[CC] Approx 405[435, 490, 524, 618,
698, 760] yards Note:
Every spinner is different, and the yardage
you get from a 4oz braid of top can vary greatly according to the
way you spin and the fiber you use. I've calculated the fiber requirements
and yardage as best I could based on the amounts I used for my
own cardigan, rounding up to the next half oz. Note that the amounts
listed do not include fiber for swatching and experimenting. When
in doubt, buy more rather than less. If you have too much fiber
or yarn, you can always use it for socks.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that
gives you the gauge listed below --
every knitter's gauge is unique]
1
set US #4/3.5mm double-point needles
24-inch
US #4/3.5mm circular needle
Tools 2
removable stitch markers
waste yarn or spare circular needle
darning needle
1 small button
GAUGE
26.5 sts and 38 rows = 4" in
Stockinette st
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
m1l (make 1 left): Lift strand between needles
from front to back; knit this stitch through the back loop. m1r (make 1 right): Lift strand between needles
from back to front; knit this stitch. S2KP2: Slip 2 sts together as if to knit,
knit next st, pass 2 slipped sts over knit st.
Backwards loop cast on: Bend
yarn into a loop, twist and place on needle. Repeat until desired
number of stitches are cast on.
Adjusting the length:
Since this cardigan is knit top-down, it's
very easy to adjust the length to your liking. Just knit in
patt until cardigan measures 0.5 inch less than desired length,
add 0.5 inch of garter st and bind off.
If you only have a little amount of a special
yarn you want to use, just knit until you almost run out of
yarn, then add the garter edge. In this case, I suggest knitting
the sleeves first and using the rest of the yarn up on the body.
DIRECTIONS
BACK
With circular needle, long tail cast on,
and MC, CO 85[89, 97, 103, 109, 113, 125] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit.
Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 5.75[6,
6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches.
Shape Armholes: Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1r, knit to last st,
m1l, k1. 2 sts increased.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Rep these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5]
more times.
Next Row [RS]: Knit to end, CO 2 sts
using back loop cast on.
Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to end, CO 2
sts using back loop cast on.
RIGHT FRONT
With right side of back piece facing,
and starting at upper right corner, pick
up and knit 23[24, 26, 28, 29, 30, 34]
sts, 1 st for each st of back piece.
Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Note: Neck shaping starts before and is
worked at the same
time as armhole and waist shaping. Read the following section all
the way through before proceeding.
Shape Neck: Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1. Increase Row [RS]: K1, knit to
last st, m1l, k1. 1 st increased.
Cont to work in St st, working all selvedge
sts in garter st. Rep Increase Row every 6th
row 19[19, 17, 18, 16, 16, 14] more times,
then every 4th row 0[1, 5, 5, 9, 10, 14]
more times. 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 29] sts
increased.
Shape Armhole:
Work in St st, working all selvedge sts
in garter st, until piece measures 5.75[6,
6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches. Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1r, knit to end. 1 st
increased. Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Rep these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5]
more times. Next Row [RS]: Knit. Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to end, CO 2
sts using back loop cast on.
Rep these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 4,5]
more times. 4[5, 6, 7, 10, 8, 9] sts
increased.
Break yarn and put piece on waste yarn
or spare circular needle.
LEFT FRONT
With RS of back piece facing, and starting
at upper left corner, count the first
23[24, 26, 28, 29, 30, 34] sts of back
piece. Starting at 23rd[24th, 26th, 28th,
29th, 30st, 34th] st, pick up and knit
23[24, 26, 28, 29, 30, 34] sts, 1 st for
each st of back piece.
Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Next Row [RS]: Knit.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Shape Neck: Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Increase Row[RS]: K1, m1r, knit to
last st, k1. 1 st increased.
Cont to work
in St st, working all selvedge sts in
garter st and rep Increase Row every
6th row19[19, 17, 18, 16, 16, 14]
more times, then every 4th row 0[1, 5, 5,
9, 10, 14] more times. 20[21, 23, 24, 26,
27, 29] sts increased.
Shape Armhole:
Work in St st, working all selvedge sts
in garter st, until piece measures 5.75[6,
6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, knit to last st, m1l,
k1. 1 st increased.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Rep these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5]
more times.
Next Row [RS]: Knit to end, CO
2 sts using backwards loop cast on.
Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Rep these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 4, 5]
more times. 4[5, 6, 7, 10, 8, 9] sts increased.
Join Pieces: Next Row [RS]: Knit across left front.
Using back loop cast-on, CO 7[11, 11,
13, 21, 25, 29] sts for underarm. Knit
across back. CO 7[11, 11, 13, 21, 25,
29] sts for underarm. Knit across right
front. 14[22, 22, 26, 42, 50, 58] sts
increased. Using removable st markers,
mark center underarm stitch. This is your
side seam stitch. Move marker along as
you knit.
Work in St st, working all selvedge sts
in garter st, until piece measures 1.25
inches from underarm. End with WS row.
Shape Waist: Decrease Row [RS]: *Knit to 2 sts before
first seam marker, k2tog, knit seam
st, SSK*; rep once more from * to *;
knit to end. 4 sts decreased.
Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Cont to work in St st, rep Decrease
Row every
12th row 4 more
times. 20 sts decreased.
Cont to work in St st until last Increase
Row of neck shaping.
End on a WS row.
Establish chevron lace patt as follows: Row 1 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k2,
*YO, k1, YO, k3, S2KP2, k3; rep from * to
last 6 sts, YO, k1, YO, k2, SSK, k1. Center
seam sts should fall on the knit st between
yarn overs or on the center st of the k3tog.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Rep these 2 rows until piece measures
6.5 inches from color change, ending on
a WS row.
Shape Hip: Note: Cont to work in chevron
lace patt. Increases are worked as on
both sides of the center seam st. If
your center seam st is in the middle of
the k3tog, simply k3 instead of the k3tog.
K3tog on all RS rows that are not Increase
Rows.
If your center seam st is between 2
yos, work m1l, knit seam st, m1r on Increase
Rows.
Increased sts are then always worked
in St st. This creates a St st gusset
on each side of the center seam st.
Increase Row [RS]: *Knit to marker,
inc 1 st as specified in note, knit seam
st, inc 1 st as specified in note; rep
from * , knit to end. 4 sts increased. Next Row [WS]: Purl.
Cont to work in patt, rep Increase Row every
4th row 5[5, 4, 4, 2, 2] more times, then
every 6th row 5[5, 6, 6, 8, 8] more times.
44 sts increased, 225 [245, 265, 285, 325,
365, 405] sts.
Cont to work garter st for 0.5 inch. BO
loosely.
SLEEVES Note: Sleeves are worked top-down. Sleeve
cap is worked flat to the underarm, then
the sleeve is joined and worked in the
round. Use your favorite method for working
in the round. Sleeves can also be worked
entirely flat. In this case, add one selvedge
st on each side and close side sleeve
seam before sewing the sleeve into the
armhole.
With MC, CO 16[18, 18, 20, 23, 26, 28]
sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit. Cont to work in patt.
At end of next 4 rows, CO twice 4 sts,
then twice 3 sts, using back loop cast on.
14 sts increased.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1r, knit to
last st, m1l, k1. 2 sts increased.
Next Row [WS]: K1, p to last st, k1.
Cont to work
in St st, working all selvedge sts in
garter st and rep Increase Row every
2nd[2nd,
2nd, 2nd, 4th, 4th, 2nd] row 6[3, 4,
3, 3, 1, 2] more times, then every 4th
[4th, 4th, 4th, 6th, 6th, 4th] row 2[5,
5, 7, 2, 5, 9] times, then every 2nd
[2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 4th, 4th, 2nd] row 8[6,
8, 8, 4, 2, 9] more times, then every
2nd row 0[0, 0, 0, 6, 6, 0] more times.
Next Row [RS]: Knit to end, CO 2 sts
using back loop cast on.
Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to end, CO 2
sts using back loop cast on.
Rep these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 4, 5]
more times.
Join Sleeve: Next Rnd [RS]: Knit. Using back loop
cast-on, CO 3[10, 10, 12, 20, 24, 28]
sts, pm for beg of rnd, CO 3[10, 10, 12,
20, 24, 28] sts. Join rnd.
Work in St st until sleeve measures 0.5[0.5,
0.75, 0.75, 0.75, 1, 1] inch from underarm.
Break yarn and join CC.
Establish chevron lace
patt as follows: Rnd 1:K2[3,
1, 0, 3, 3, 2], *YO, k1,
YO, k3, S2KP2, k3; rep from * to last
2[3,
1, 0, 2, 3, 2] sts, k to
end. Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep these 2 rnds until piece measures
2[2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3] inches from underarm.
Work 0.5 inch in garter st. Loosely BO.
Repeat for second sleeve.
FINISHING Next Row [RS]: With RS of garment facing and starting at lower
corner of right front, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows
along right front edge, then one st for every st along back
neck, then 2 sts for every 3 rows along left front edge. Work
2 rows in garter st. Buttonhole Row [WS]: Knit to color
change on right front. YO, k2tog, knit
to end.
Cont in garter st until edging measures
0.5 inch in width. BO loosely.
Sew sleeves into armholes. Attach button
opposite to buttonhole on left side edging.
Weave in all ends. Lightly block, let dry.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Claudia spins and knits in Berne, Switzerland. She works as a construction
law lawyer for the government to fund her fiber addiction.