book excerpt
Rural Chinese Communities
Many Chinese worked as cooks at
ranches in the southern
Alberta foothills, but: “cooking was a small part of the job. They did the laundry for cowboys, looked after barn chores, raised
chickens, planted gardens and looked after them.” In at least on instance, notable creativity found expression in the
course of routine ranch work by Chinese. “On
the Hull Ranch along the Bow River, the indigenous Chinese cooks were credited
with devising a unique system for serving a large crew of ranch hands at one
sitting. A big round dining table
was built, with another large, Lazy Susan style circle in the centre. Platters of food, salt, pepper, sugar, etc. were placed on
the Lazy Susan and the diners helped themselves as the food came around.”
A one-time resident of the Nanton area, in the foothills
south of Calgary, recalled: “I remember the Chinese cooks we had each year.
Nearly every ranch had one. Hired
in the spring before haying began and kept until after the fall roundup, the
cook took complete charge of the kitchen. He
always had a list of groceries ready for any cowboy who might be going to town.
If the cowboy forgot to bring flour, the shortage of pies and cakes was
immediate and acute.”
The narrator added that children tended to be deferential
to these men; apart from other things, adults respected certain non-cooking
skills of Chinese ranch hands. “Most
of these men still wore hair in pigtails and some wore oriental clothing. Some were good horsemen and added to their prestige by their ability to
‘skin’ a four-horse team and a chuck wagon from camp to camp at roundup
time. We children soon learned the
penalties that could be levied for disrespect and the goodies that could be had
for cooperating with this kitchen autocrat.”
Reprinted from Moon Cakes In Gold
Mountain: From China to the Canadian Plains by Brian Dawson with kind
permission of the author.
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