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This peacoat style jacket is made with seamstress ideals in mind. The princess seams that are created with its five panel construction are slimming while still allowing plenty of room for movement.

There are several techniques used including double knitting for pockets and I-cords for the trim.

The princess seams are done in reverse so they stand out and the result is a coat that looks as clean on the inside as out.

 

model: Eva Sestric photo: Jamie Cook

SIZE
S[M, L]
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 43[46, 49] inches
Length: 31.5[32.5, 33.5] inches

 

MATERIALS

[MC] Rowanspun Aran by Rowan [100% Wool; 219yd/200m per 100g skein] ;
color: 973 "Gables"; 8[8, 9] skeins

1 set US #9/5.5mm straight needles
1 24-inch US #8/5mm circular needle
1 spare US #6/4mm straight needle for picking up sts
Row counter
Stitch holder
9 1-1/8 inch buttons

 

GAUGE

16 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

 
DIRECTIONS

SKPO = slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over

I-cord = using #8 needles, CO 6 sts. Don't turn but slide sts across length of circular cord to other needle. Pull yarn snuggly and knit across all 6 sts. Repeat for length needed. [You might prefer to do this on DPNs.]

 

PATTERN

Back

Loosely CO 68[72, 76] sts with #8 needles.
Work 1.5 inches in St st.
Work 2 rows in rev St st.
Work 1.5 inches in St st, ending with a WS row.
Using the smaller spare needle, pick up 68[72, 76] sts from CO edge. Allowing the hem to fold naturally at the rev St st rows, knit tog 1 st from each needle across work creating a hem -- 68[72, 76] sts on needle.
Change to larger needles and work 20[22, 24] rows, ending with a WS row.

Dec 1 st each side of next and every fol 6th row, 10 times.
AT THE SAME TIME, when back measures 13.5[13.5, 14] inches and ending with a WS row, work in Rib Pat as follows:

Row 1: K11[13, 15], p1, *k2tog, p1* 7[8, 9] times, k11[13,15].

Row 2: P11[13, 15], k1, *p1, k1* 7[8, 9] times, p11[13, 15].

Row 3: K11[13, 15], p1, *k1, p1* 7[8, 9] times, k11[13,15].

Repeat rows 2 and 3 11[12, 13] times more.

Row 30: K11[13, 15], p1, *k1, m1, p1* 7[8, 9] times, k11[13, 15].

Continue the rest of the back in St st.

When the back measures 19.5[20, 20.5] inches, begin increases as follows: inc 1 st each side in the next and fol 10th row 1[2, 3] times, then in every fol 8th row 4[3, 2] times, then in every fol 6th row 3[2, 2] times, then in every fol 4th row 2[3, 3] times, and in the fol 2nd row 0[0, 1] time.
Work 2[4, 2] more rows, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders and Neck

BO 3[3, 4] sts at beg of next 2 rows.
BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
BO 4, k8 and turn, leaving rem sts on a holder.
BO 4 on neck edge, BO rem 5 sts.
Rejoin yarn and BO middle 30[34, 38] sts, k to end.
BO 4 sts at the beg of next 2 rows.
BO rem 5 sts.

Side Panels

CO 22 sts, work hem as for back. Change to larger needles and P a WS row.

Next row [RS]: K1 *k1, m1* 10 times, k1.

Continue using double knitting technique as follows:

Row 1 [WS]: K1 *Sl 1 purlwise, p1* 20 times, Sl 1 knitwise

Row 2 [RS]:K1 *bring yarn in front, Sl 1 purlwise, p1* 20 times, Sl 1 knitwise.

Repeat these 2 rows for 6.5 inches, ending on WS.

Place pocket sts on holder, keeping edge sts on needle [22 sts].
Inc 1 st each side of next and fol 10th row 2 times.
Work 20[22, 24] rows.
Inc 1 st each side of next and fol 6 rows 2 times, then fol 8 rows 2 times.
Work until side panel measures 22.5[23, 23.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes

Row 1: K12, turn leaving rem sts on holder.

Row 2: P1, p2tog, p to end.

Row 3: K to last 3 sts, SKPO, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows once more.

Row 6: Purl.

Continue, Dec 1 st on seam edge on fol 6 th row once, then fol 10th row once, then fol 8 th row 0[0, 2] times, and fol 6th row 4[4, 2] times.
Continue straight for 14 rows.
BO all sts.

Rejoin yarn and K until 12 sts remain on right needle.
Reverse shaping for other side.

Pockets

Pick up pocket sts from holder with RS facing.
Turn, rejoin yarn and working from WS, BO all sts knitwise.

Front [left side]

Loosely CO 52[56, 60] sts. Work hem as for back.

Change to larger needles and work 20[22, 24] rows, ending with a WS row.

Dec 1 st at side seam of next and every fol 6th row, 10 times.

When the front measures 19.5[20, 20.5] inches, begin increases as follows: inc 1 st at side seam of next and every fol 10th row 1[2, 3] times, then in every fol 8th row 3[2, 1] times.
Work 1 row ending on WS.

Next row BO 20[22, 24] P to end.

Next Row [RS]: Knit.

Neck Shaping

Row 1: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Row 2: P1, p2tog, p to end.

Repeat last 2 rows 3[4, 5] times.
AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st at side seam on fol 2nd[4th, 6th] row.

Continue neck shaping as follows:

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: P1, p2tog, p to end.

Repeat last 2 rows 8[8, 9] times.
AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st at side seam at next and fol then in every fol 6th row 2[1,2] times, then in every fol 4th row 2[3, 3] times, and in the fol 2nd row 0[0, 1]. Work 2[4, 2] more rows, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder

BO 3[3, 4] sts at beg of next row.

Work 1 row.

BO 4 sts at beg of next and fol alt row.

Work 1 row. BO rem 5 sts.

Front [right side]

Loosely CO 54[56,60] sts. Work hem as for back.

Change to larger needles and work 20[22, 24] rows, ending with a WS row.

Make button holes at 10.5[11.5, 12.5] inches, 15.5[16.5, 17.5] inches, and 20.5[21.5, 22.5] inches as follows:

K5, *K2tog, YO* 2 times, K to end.

AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at side seam of next and every fol 6th row, 10 times.

When the front measures 19.5[20, 20.5] inches, begin increases as follows: inc 1 st at side seam of next and every fol 10th row 1[2, 3] times, then in every fol 8th row 3[2, 1] times. Work 1 row ending on WS.

Next row BO 20[22,24] K to end.

Next Row [WS]: Purl. Work neck shaping as follows:

Row 1: K1, SKPO, k to end.

Row 2: P to last 3 sts, p through back loop, p1.

Repeat last 2 rows 3[4, 5] times. AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st at side seam at fol 2 nd[4th, 6th] row.

Continue neck shaping as follows:

Row 1: K1, SKPO, kto end.

Row 2: Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows 8[8, 9] times.
AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1st at side seam at next and fol then in every fol 6th row 2[1, 2] times, then in every fol 4th row 2[3, 3] times, and in the fol 2 nd row 0[0, 1] time.
Work 3[5, 3] more rows, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder

BO 3[3, 4] sts at beg of next row.

Work 1 row.

BO 4 sts at beg of next and fol alt row.

Work 1 row. BO rem 5 sts.

Front Edging [make 2]

Using #8 needles, work I-cord for 23[24, 25] inches.
Stretch slightly to reach the length of the inside front edge and sew in place.

Sleeve [make 2]

Cuff:
Using #8 needles, make an I-cord 13.5[13.5, 14] inches long.
Using #9 needles pick up 54[54, 56] sts along length of I-cord.
Work in rev St st for 2 inches from picked up sts.
Work 2 rows in St st [this creates the fold line].
Work another 2 inches in rev St st.

Sleeve:
Working in St st, inc 1 sts each edge of next and fol 10 rows to 74[74, 76] sts. Continue until piece measures 16[17, 17] inches.
BO 7 sts at the beg of next 2 rows and 2 sts at the beg of next 12 rows -- 36[36, 38] sts.
BO 1 st at the beg of next 8 rows.
BO rem 28[28, 30] sts.

FINISHING

Sew side panels, back, and front reversing seam [these seams will be on the outside of the coat].
Sew shoulder seams using mattress st, with seams facing in.

Button loops [make 2]

CO 16 sts, turn and BO all sts.
Sew loops on the top edge of each front, 1 inch from side and ends 1 inch apart.

Attach 4 buttons to left front side to match button holes and button loop on right front. Attach 4 decorative buttons to right front side to match spacing on left.
Use last button on inside of right side directly behind top button on the outside. This will work with the button loop on the inside.

Collar

Using #8 needle, work I-cord for 24[25.5, 27] inches.
Still using #8 needles, pickup 102[108, 115] sts along length of I-cord.
Work in St st for 1 inch.
Dec 1 sts each side of next and fol 6 rows 2 times.
Work 2 rows rev St st.
Continue in St st until piece measures 4.5[5, 5] inches.
BO all sts loosely.
Sew collar to left front 6 inches from shoulder seam, across back and 6 inches past shoulder seam on the right front.

Set in sleeves using set-in method, with seams facing in.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

If you see Jamie, you see Jamie knitting.

She records her adventures in obsession at TheRedSweater.com.

 

Special thanks to Rowan who provided the yarn for this design.