Knitty: editorial spring 06

mesillaanatoliaungranny smith t-twist jamesey jardin anglais
exchequered tendrils nagano sakura convertible topi reid double scoop
tiny tether pedicure socks hedera nautie blossom katja felted tea cosy

by Barbara Gregory

Lots of color and pattern in a slim, simple T-shirt shape. The fine cotton yarn makes a garment that is comfortable to wear fall through spring, and it is light enough to knit in the heat of summer. This is not a glamorous yarn, but one inexpensive ball goes a long way and provides a lot of knitting for the money.

The all-over pattern is simple to work and easily memorized. Because it is a slip-stitch pattern, you zip along the rows with one color of yarn, knitting and slipping stitches with no worries about carrying, stranding or puckering. The six yarn colors mix in an easy rotation that keeps the knitting interesting. And for more knitting excitement, diamond motifs are inserted into the pattern of squares and dots to give the front some vertical interest. A single diamond graces each sleeve and the back.

model/photos: Barbara Gregory

SIZE

XS [S, M, L, XL] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 31.5[35.5, 39.5, 43.5, 48.5] inches
Length: 20.25[21.25, 22.25, 22.75, 24] inches

MATERIALS

Circulo Anne [cotton; 546.8yd/500m per 147.5g skein]
[MC] 7188 Rust; 1 [2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[A] 7625; Tan; 1 skein
[B] 3794; Ruby; 1[1, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[C] 3418; Pink; 1 skein
[D] 6078; Rose; 1 skein
[E] 7250; Orange; 1 skein

1 set US #2/3mm double-point needles
1 set US #2/3mm straight needles
tapestry needle

GAUGE

28 sts/37 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
31 sts/59rows = 4 inches in pattern stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

S2KP: Slip next 2 sts together, as if to k2tog; knit next st, pass slipped sts over. This forms a centered double decrease.

Zigzag Rib (Worked over a multiple of 6 sts + 3):
Set-Up Row [WS]: K1, p1, [k2, p1] to last st, k1.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, ssk, [k3, S2KP] to last 6 sts, k3, k2tog, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, [p1, k1, m1, p1, m1, k1] to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for Zigzag Rib.

Stripe Pattern (for Zigzag Rib Borders):
CO, Set-Up Row, and 2 more rows MC
2 rows A
4 rows B
2 rows C
4 rows MC
2 rows D
4 rows B
2 rows E
2 rows MC

Notes on Charted Patterns for Anatolia
This is a slip stitch, or mosaic, pattern. Each row is worked using only one color, and by slipping a stitch without working it, a stitch from the row below brings a new color into the working row. Every knit row is followed by a purl row of the same color. The colors change every two rows.

To work a slip stitch, move it to the right needle without knitting or purling it. It should be slipped in such a way that it is ready to knit on the next row; for most knitters this means slipping purlwise. The working yarn is always on the wrong side of the fabric as a stitch is slipped, and should be stranded loosely so the fabric does not pucker.

In this pattern stitches surrounded by those of a different color are knit on both the RS and the WS. In the chart key this is abbreviated as Rev St st. This results in a purl bump which helps the dot of color stand out from its background, and gives the fabric texture.

Carry the colors not in use loosely up the side. They may be cut and rejoined as necessary, for example at the armhole shaping. When beginning a MC row, bring the yarn from under the other colors to keep the edge tidy.

Depending on where you begin in the chart pattern, and inevitably as you increase or decrease, you will come to rows in which the chart tells you to slip the first stitch. Always knit on RS and purl on WS the first and last stitches of a row using the working color for that row, to maintain a stable edge for seaming. This stitch will later be hidden in the seam.

Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.

*Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*

Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

DIRECTIONS

Front
*Using MC, CO 141[159, 177, 195, 219] sts.

Working in Zigzag Rib, work through all rows of Stripe Pattern, decreasing 16[18, 20 22 28] sts on last row as follows:

Sizes XS, S, M, L Only:

Next Row [WS]: K1, p1, k1, m1, p1, m1, k1, [p1, k1, p1, k1, (p1, k1, m1, p1, m1, k1) twice] to last 2 sts, p1, k1. 125[141,157, 173,_] sts rem.

Size XL Only:

Next Row [WS]: K1, [p1, k1, m1, p1, m1, k1] 4 times, [(p1, k1) 3 times, m1, p1, m1, k1] 14 times, [p1, k1, m1, p1, m1, k1] 4 times, p1, k1. 191 sts rem.

NOTE: Read ahead; shaping instructions and color chart instructions are worked at the same time. Read through all Pattern Notes about working from the charts before you begin this pattern.

All Sizes:

Next Row [RS]: Work Row 1 of Chart 1, beginning with st 1[3, 5, 7, 8] and ending with st 5[3, 1, 9, 8] of Chart 1. Place st markers after first 51[59, 67, 75, 84] sts and after following 23 sts. This marks the center 23 sts and will be of use later, when central motif charts are placed.

Work 7[5, 11, 19, 13] more rows in patt as set.

Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 3[3, 5, 5, 5] rows in patt.
Repeat these 4[4, 6, 6, 6] rows 5 times more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 111[127, 143, 159, 177] sts rem.

Work 29[35, 35, 35, 35] rows in patt as set.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt to last st, m1, k1.
Work 11 rows in patt.
Repeat these 12 rows 4 times more, then work Waist Increase Row once more. 123[139, 155, 171, 189] sts. Row 27[31, 17, 25, 19] of Chart 1 has just been worked.

Work 25[35, 23, 11, 27] more rows in patt. Row 20[2, 8, 4, 14] of Chart 1 has just been worked. Armhole shaping will begin on next row.
AT THE SAME TIME: Work 32 rows of Chart 1, 2[3, 3, 3, 4] times.

Work first 18[2, 18, 18, 2] rows of Chart 1.

Next Row [RS]: Work next row of Chart 1 to marker, work Row 1 of Chart 3[2, 3, 3, 2] to next marker, work next row of Chart 1 to end.

Work 37 rows in patt (to end of Chart 3[2, 3, 3, 2]).

Work next 10 rows of Chart 1 over all sts.

Work all rows of Chart 2[3, 2, 2, 3] between markers, and Chart 1 as set over all other sts.

Work next 10 rows of Chart 1 over all sts.

Work all rows of Chart 3[2, 3, 3, 2] between markers, and Chart 1 as set over all other sts.

Work next 9 rows of Chart 1 over all sts.**

Continue working Chart 1 for rest of front.
AT THE SAME TIME: Shape armholes as follows:
BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 115[129, 143, 157, 173] sts rem.

Size XL Only:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, work in patt to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows twice more. 161 sts.

All Sizes:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 3[3, 4, 9, 6] times more. 107[121, 133, 137, 147] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[6, 5, 3, 4] times more. 101[107, 121, 129, 137] sts rem.*

Continue in patt until you reach point ** (in directions above).

Shape Neckline and Left Shoulder:
Next Row [WS]: Work 44[46, 53, 56, 60] sts in patt, place these sts on st holder; BO next 13[15, 15, 17, 17] sts, work in patt to end. 44[46, 53, 56, 60] sts rem.

Work 1 row in patt.
Next Row [WS]: BO 3 sts, work in patt to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 1, 1, 2] times more. 38[40, 47, 50, 51] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, work in patt to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 1, 2, 1] times more. 34[36, 43, 44, 47] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 8, 6, 7] times more. 28[29, 34, 37, 39] sts rem.

Work 8[12, 10, 14, 12] rows in patt.

Next Row [RS]: BO 5[5, 6, 7, 7] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[0, 0, 2, 0] times more.

Next Row [RS]: BO 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 2, 0, 2] times more.

BO rem 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts

Shape Neckline and Right Shoulder:
Replace held sts on needle with RS facing and reattach yarn.

Next Row [RS]: BO 3 sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 1, 1, 2] times more. 38[40, 47, 50, 51] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to end.
Next Row [WS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 1, 2, 1] times more. 34[36, 43, 44, 47] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 8, 6, 7] times more. 28[29, 34, 37, 39] sts rem.

Work 9[13, 11, 15, 13] rows in patt.

Next Row [WS]: BO 5[5, 6, 7, 7] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[0, 0, 2, 0] times more.

Next Row [WS]: BO 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 2, 0, 2] times more.

BO rem 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts

Back
Work as for Front from * to *, EXCEPT work only Chart 1.

After Armhole shaping is completed, you will have completed Row 10[8, 12, 10, 24] of Chart 1.

Work 24[10, 22, 24, 36] more rows. Row 2[18, 2, 2, 18] of Chart 1 has just been worked.

Work all rows of Chart 2[3, 2, 2, 3] between markers, and Chart 1 as set over all other sts.

Work Chart 1 over all sts until Back measures approx. 0.5 inch less than Front to beg of shoulder shaping, ending with a RS row.

Next Row [WS]: Work 33[34, 39, 42, 44] sts in patt, place these sts on st holder; BO next 35[39, 43, 45, 49] sts, work in patt to end. 33[34, 39, 42, 44] sts rem.

NOTE: Read ahead; neckline and shoulder shaping directions are worked at the same time.

Shape Right Back Neckline and Shoulder:
Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more.

AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures same as Front to shoulder, ending with a WS row, shape shoulder as follows:
Next Row [RS]: BO 5[5, 6, 7, 7] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[0, 0, 2, 0] times more.

Next Row [RS]: BO 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 2, 0, 2] times more.

BO rem 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts

Shape Left Back Neckline and Shoulder:
Replace held sts on needle with RS facing and reattach yarn.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more.

AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures same as Front to shoulder, ending with a RS row, shape shoulder as follows:

Next Row [WS]: BO 5[5, 6, 7, 7] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[0, 0, 2, 0] times more.

Next Row [WS]: BO 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 2, 0, 2] times more.

BO rem 6[6, 7, 8, 8] sts

Sleeves (Make 2)
Using MC, CO 63[63, 69, 75, 81] sts.

Working in Zigzag Rib, work through all rows of Stripe Pattern.

NOTE: Read ahead; shaping instructions and color chart instructions are worked at the same time.

Next Row [RS]: Work Row 1 of Chart 1, beginning with st 2[2, 9, 6, 3] and ending with st 4[4, 7, 10, 3] of Chart 1. Place st markers after first 20[20, 23, 26, 29] sts and after following 23 sts. This marks the center 23 sts and will be of use later, when central motif charts are placed.

Work 11[7,7, 7, 7] rows in patt.
Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt to last st, m1, k1.
Repeat these 12[8, 8, 8, 8] rows 16[3, 4, 14, 19] times more. 97[71, 79, 105, 121] sts.

Sizes S, M, L, XL Only:
Work _[11, 11, 9, 11] rows in patt.
Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt to last st, m1, k1.
Repeat these _[12, 12, 10, 12] rows _[14, 14, 9, 5] times more. _[101, 109, 125, 133 ] sts.

Cont in patt until work measures approx. 16.75[17.25, 18, 18, 18.25] inches, ending with Row 20[2, 8, 4, 14] of Chart 1. Proceed to Sleeve Cap shaping.

AT THE SAME TIME: Work 32 rows of Chart 1, 6[6, 7, 7, 7] times.

Work first 2[18, 2, 2, 18] rows of Chart 1.

Next Row [RS]: Work next row of Chart 1 to marker, work Row 1 of Chart 2[3, 2, 2, 2] to next marker, work next row of Chart 1 to end.

Work 37 rows in patt (to end of Chart 3[2, 3, 3, 2]).

Work Chart 1 over all sts to end of sleeve.

AT THE SAME TIME: Shape Sleeve Cap as follows:

BO 5[5, 6, 7, 8] sts at beg next 2 rows. 87[91, 97, 111, 117] sts rem.

RS Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
WS Decrease Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, work in patt to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 3, 6, 3] times more. 75[75, 81, 83, 101] sts rem.

Work RS Decrease Row.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 9[4, 6, 8, 8] times more. 55[65, 67, 65, 83] sts rem.

Work RS Decrease Row.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 6[6, 7, 5, 8] times more. 41[51, 51, 53, 65] sts rem.

Work RS Decrease Row.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 3[10, 6, 5, 7] times more. 33[29, 37, 41, 49] sts rem.

Work RS Decrease Row.
Work WS Decrease Row.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[1, 3, 3, 4] times more.

BO rem 21[21, 21, 25, 29] sts.

FINISHING

Using MC and with RS facing, pick up and k 1 st in each bound off st along right front shoulder. Break yarn.

In the same way, pick up and k the same number of sts along right back shoulder; do not break yarn.

Holding pieces so right sides are facing, join shoulders using Three-Needle Bind Off.

Join left shoulder seam in the same way.

Neckband
Using double point needles and MC, beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows and 1 st in each bound off st around neckline; join to begin working in the round. Count sts to be sure you have an even number of sts; if not, decrease 1 st in next round.

Round 1: Using MC, p all sts.
Round 2: Using B, [k1, sl 1] to end.
Round 3: Using B, [p1, sl 1 with yarn in back] to end.
Round 4: Using MC, k all sts.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 once more. Loosely BO all sts purlwise.

Weave in ends. Pieces do not need to be blocked, but may be lightly steam pressed on wrong side before seaming.

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.

Care
Wash warm or cold and tumble dry medium or low. Drying flat is not recommended as the garment will not feel as soft.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Barbara Gregory knits and illustrates in Toronto. She likes to use many colors in both of these pursuits.

You can see examples of her efforts at barbaragregory.com