Knitty: editorial spring 06

mesilla anatoliaungranny smitht-twist jamesey jardin anglais
exchequered tendrils nagano sakura convertible topi reiddouble scoop
tiny tether pedicure socks hedera nautieblossom katja felted tea cosy

by Lisa Marie Collins

Get your Granny on! Worked in a plush blend of merino, cotton, and acrylic in fresh-apple green, this light cardigan is just the thing for early spring days, or any day at all in a chilly office. Leaf buds decorate the entire garment, while transparent glass beads add subtle sparkle to the lower body and sleeve edges. Grannies who want to tart it up for evening might crank up the bead/yarn contrast to make the beads really pop, or work the beaded trim pattern all over the sweater. A bit of imagination is in order for the button-free front closure: a vintage brooch, a kilt pin, and nothing at all are but three of the options.

UnGranny Smith is knit flat in pieces from the bottom up. For a tailored fit, it features set-in sleeves and waist, shoulder, and back-neck shaping. Two optional sets of short rows added to the back ensure that the contoured bodice hangs perfectly. The combined front bands and collar are picked up and knit in one piece on a long circular needle. The beads are knitted in, but could be sewn on later instead, if that's your preference. The allover stitch pattern comes in two flavors: one with beads and one without.

There tends to be a lot going on, shaping- and bead-wise, at the lower edge of each piece, immediately following the ribbing. If you're a less experienced granny, you might want to keep the amaretto out of your tea until the stitch pattern is well established. Or add more. See what happens.

model: Lisa Collins photos: Russell Collins

SIZE

S [M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL] (shown in size L)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 35[37.5, 43, 46, 51, 54] inches
Length: 19[20, 21.5, 21.5, 22.5, 24] inches

MATERIALS

Lily Chin Signature Collection Chelsea [30% merino wool, 35% cotton, 35% acrylic]; 191yd/174m per 50g skein]; color: #5806 Apple Green; 7[8, 9, 10, 12, 13] skeins

1 set US #5/3.75 mm needles
1 set US #4/3.5mm needles
1 28-inch (or longer) US #4/3.5 mm circular needle
1 28-inch (or longer) US #3/3.25 mm circular needle
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle
Beading needle with eye large enough to accommodate yarn: Butler GUM plastic dental floss threaders from the drugstore also work nicely.
125[140, 150, 170, 180] 4 mm round glass beads OR other beads with holes to accommodate yarn. Beads shown are item #Y4-094 -- round faceted transparent AB Czech beads from BeadBabe.com.

GAUGE

24 st/32 rows = 4 inches in Little Curls stitch pattern on US #5/3.75 mm needles.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

This pattern uses short rows to help shape the back. While working the rows which follow the short rows, when you come to a wrapped st, pick up the wrap, and knit it together with the stitch it had wrapped.

Make Curl: P3tog without dropping sts from left needle, k same 3 sts together without dropping from left needle, p same 3 sts together again, drop from left needle.

Place Bead: Slide a bead up the yarn, close to the needle, and proceed to work next stitch. The bead will rest between the stitches on either side of it.

Little Curls Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts + 1):
Rows 1, 3, 7, and 9 [RS]: K all sts.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-12 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 5 [RS]: K3, [make curl, k5] to last 6 sts, make curl, k3.
Row 11 [RS]: K7, [make curl, k5] to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep Rows 1 through 12 for Little Curls Pattern.
Stitch pattern from the Big Book of Knitted Stitch Patterns, by Ellen Liberles (ed.). Sterling Publishing, 2004.

The Beaded Curls Pattern is a variation on the Little Curls Pattern, which alternates the working skein with a separate skein that has been pre-strung with beads, and places a bead at the base of each curl. Use the non-beaded working skein unless otherwise noted. When alternating skeins, carry unused yarn loosely up the side of the work.

Create Beaded Skein:
Using beading needle, string approximately 30 beads onto a separate skein of yarn. While there is nothing magical about the number 30, it is best to avoid stringing too many beads at one time to reduce abrasion of the yarn, caused by sliding beads.

Beaded Curls Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 8 sts + 1):
Rows 1, 3, 7, and 9 [RS]: K all sts.
Rows 2, 6, 8, and 12 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 4 [WS]: Using beaded skein, p3, [k1, place bead, k1, p6] to last 6 sts, k1, place bead, k1, p4.
Row 5 [RS]: K3, [make curl, k5] to last 6 sts, make curl, k3.
Row 10 [WS]: Using beaded skein, p7, [k1, place bead, k1, p6] to last st, p1.
Row 11 [RS]: K7, [make curl, k5] to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat Rows 1-12 for Beaded Curls pattern.

DIRECTIONS

Back
Using US #4/3.5mm needles, CO 103[109, 127, 133, 151, 157] sts

Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.

Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.

Row 3 [RS]: K1, p1, [k3, p3] to last 5 sts, k3, p1, k1.

Row 4 [WS]: P1, k1, [p3, k3] to last 5 sts, p3, k1, p1.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with Row 3.

Next Row [WS]: [Work 34[22, 42, 27, 50, 31] sts in patt, m1] 2[4, 2, 4, 2, 4] times, work in patt to end. 105[113, 129, 137, 153, 161] sts.

Using US #5/3.75 mm needles, cont as follows:

Next Row [RS]: K to last 8 sts, W&T.

P to last 8 sts, W&T.

K to end.

P 1 row.

Note: Read ahead; stitch pattern directions and waist shaping directions are worked at the same time.

Work Rows 1-12 of Beaded Curls pattern, then work Rows 1-6 once more.

Begin working Little Curls Pattern, starting from Row 7. Cont in Little Curls Pattern for rest of Back.
AT THE SAME TIME: Shape waist as follows, keeping stitch pattern correct:
Work 6[6, 4, 4, 4, 6] rows in patt.

Decrease Row 1 [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 5] rows in patt.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6] rows 2[2, 4, 4, 3, 4] times more, then work Decrease Row once more. 97[105, 117, 125, 143, 149] sts.

Work 9 rows in patt.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt to last st, m1, k1.
Work 5 rows in patt.
Repeat these 6 rows 3[3, 5, 5, 4, 5] times more. 105[113, 129, 137, 153, 161] sts.

Cont in patt until work measures approximately 11.25[11.75, 12.25, 11.75, 12, 13.25] inches or slightly more, when measured along side edge, ending with either Row 12 or Row 6 of patt. Insert short rows as follows:

K to last 8 sts, W&T.
P to last 8 sts, W&T.
K to end.
Resume working in patt, beg with Row 4 (if you ended with Row 12) or Row 10 (if you ended with Row 6).

Cont in patt until work measures 12[12.5, 13, 12.5, 12.75, 14] inches when measured along side edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes
BO 4[7, 7, 9, 8, 12] sts at beg of next two rows. 97[99, 115, 119, 137, 137] sts.

Sizes 2XL, 3XL Only: BO 5[4] sts at beg of following two rows. 127[129] sts.

All Sizes: Work Decrease Row 1 as above.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 1, 2, 2, 2] times more. 93[95, 107, 107, 115, 117] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 1, 2, 3, 4] times more. 89[89, 103, 101, 107, 107] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 1, 1, 1] times more. 83[83, 97, 97, 103, 103] sts.

Cont in patt until piece measures 6[6.5, 7, 8, 8.75, 9] inches from beginning of armhole, ending with a WS row.

Shape Back Neck and Shoulders:
Next Row [RS]: Work 35[35, 40, 40, 42, 42] sts, and place these sts on st holder; BO next 13[13, 17, 17, 19, 19] sts, work to end. 35[35, 40, 40, 42, 42] sts on needle.
Work 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: BO 6[4, 7, 7, 7, 6] sts, work to end.
Next Row [WS]: BO 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Next Row [RS]: BO 4[3, 5, 3, 3, 3] sts, work to end.
Next Row [WS]: BO 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Next Row [RS]: BO 2 sts, work to end.
BO rem 8[9, 9, 10, 10, 11] sts.
Replace held sts on needle with WS facing.
Reattach yarn and work 2 rows.

Next Row [WS]: BO 6[4, 7, 7, 7, 6] sts, work to end.
Next Row [RS]: BO 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Next Row [WS]: BO 4[3, 5, 3, 3, 3] sts, work to end.
Next Row [RS]: BO 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Next Row [WS]: BO 2 sts, work to end.
BO rem 8[9, 9, 10, 10, 11] sts.

Left Front
Using US #4/3.5mm needles, CO 47[53, 59, 65, 71, 77] sts
Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p1, k1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k1, p1] to last st, p1.

Row 3 [RS]: K4, [p3, k3] to last st, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: P4, [k3, p3] to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with Row 3[3, 3, 4, 3, 4].

Sizes S, M, L, 2XL Only: Next Row [WS]: [Work 16[18, 20, _, 24, _] sts in patt, m1] twice, work in patt to end. 49[55, 61, _, 73, _] sts.

All Sizes: Using US# 5/3.75 mm needles, work 2 rows in stockinette st.

NOTE: Read ahead; stitch pattern directions and waist shaping directions are worked at the same time.

Next Row [RS]: K0[6, 4, 0, 0, 4] (these sts will be worked in stockinette), work Row 1 of Beaded Curls pattern to end.

Work Rows 2-12 of Beaded Curls pattern as set, then work Rows 1-6 once more.

Begin working Little Curls Pattern, starting from Row 7. Cont in Little Curls Pattern for rest of Left Front.

AT THE SAME TIME: Shape waist as follows, keeping stitch pattern correct:
Work 6[6, 4, 4, 4, 6] rows in patt.

Decrease Row 2 [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to end.
Work 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 5] rows in patt.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6] rows 2[2, 4, 4, 3, 4] times more, then work Decrease Row 2 once more. 45[51, 55, 59, 68, 71] sts.

Work 9 rows in patt.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt to end.
Work 5 rows in patt.
Repeat these 6 rows 3[3, 5, 5, 4, 5] times more. 49[55, 61, 65, 73, 77] sts.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 10.5[11, 11.5, 11, 11, 12] inches, ending with a WS row.

NOTE: Read ahead; neckline shaping and armhole shaping are worked at the same time.

Begin Neckline Shaping:
Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 7[3, 8, 3, 4, 3] times more.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 6[9, 8, 9, 6, 5] times more.

Sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3XL Only: Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 5 rows in patt.
Repeat these 6 rows _[_, 0, 2, 5, 6] times more.

All Sizes: 15[14, 19, 17, 18, 17] neckline decreases have been made.

AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 12[12.5, 13, 12.5, 12.75, 14] inches, ending with a WS row, shape armhole as follows:

Next Row [RS]: BO 4[7, 7, 9, 8, 12] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.

Sizes 2XL, 3XL Only: Next Row [RS]: BO 5[4] sts, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.

All Sizes: Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to end.
Next Row [WS]: P to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 1, 2, 2, 2] times more.

Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 1, 2, 3, 4] times more.

Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to end.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 1, 1, 1] times more.

After all neckline and armhole decreases have been made, 23[26, 26, 28, 30, 31] sts rem.

Cont in patt until piece measures 6[6.5, 7, 8, 8.75, 9] inches from beginning of armhole, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: BO 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: BO 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 row.
BO rem 8[9, 9, 10, 10, 11] sts.

Right Front
Using US #4/3.5mm needles, CO 47[53, 59, 65, 71, 77] sts
Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p1, k1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k1, p1] to last st, p1.

Row 3 [RS]: K4, [p3, k3] to last st, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: P4, [k3, p3] to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with Row 3[3, 3, 4, 3, 4].

Sizes S, M, L, 2XL Only:
Next Row [WS]: [Work 16[18, 20, _, 24, _] sts in patt, m1] twice, work in patt to end. 49[55, 61, _, 73, _] sts.

All Sizes: Using US #5/3.75 mm needles, work 2 rows in stockinette st.

NOTE: Read ahead; stitch pattern directions and waist shaping directions are worked at the same time.

Next Row [RS]: Work Row 1 of Beaded Curls pattern to last 0[6, 4, 0, 0, 4] sts, k to end.
Work Rows 2-12 of Beaded Curls pattern as set, then work Rows 1-6 once more.

Begin working Little Curls Pattern, starting from Row 7. Cont in Little Curls Pattern for rest of Right Front.

AT THE SAME TIME: Shape waist as follows, keeping stitch pattern correct:
Work 6[6, 4, 4, 4, 6] rows in patt.

Decrease Row 3 [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 5] rows in patt.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6] rows 2[2, 4, 4, 3, 4] times more, then work Decrease Row 3 once more. 45[51, 55, 59, 68, 71] sts.

Work 9 rows in patt.

Increase Row [RS]: Work in patt to last st, m1, k1.
Work 5 rows in patt.
Repeat these 6 rows 3[3, 5, 5, 4, 5] times more. 49[55, 61, 65, 73, 77] sts.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 10.5[11, 11.5, 11, 11, 12] inches, ending with a WS row.

NOTE: Read ahead; neckline shaping and armhole shaping are worked at the same time.

Begin Neckline Shaping
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 7[3, 8, 3, 4, 3] times more.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 6[9, 8, 9, 6, 5] times more.

Sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3XL Only: Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Work 5 rows in patt.
Repeat these 6 rows _[_, 0, 2, 5, 6] times more.

All Sizes: 15[14, 19, 17, 18, 17] neckline decreases have been made.

AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 12[12.5, 13, 12.5, 12.75, 14] inches, ending with a RS row, shape armhole as follows:
Next Row [WS]: BO 4[7, 7, 9, 8, 12] sts, work in patt to end.

Sizes 2XL, 3XL Only: Work 1 row in patt.
Next Row [WS]: BO 5[4] sts, work in patt to end.

All Sizes: Next row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, p to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 1, 2, 2, 2] times more.

Next row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 1, 2, 3, 4] times more.

Next row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 1, 1, 1] times more.

After all neckline and armhole decreases have been made, 23[26, 26, 28, 30, 31] sts rem.

Cont in patt until piece measures 6[6.5, 7, 8, 8.75, 9] inches from beginning of armhole, ending with a RS row.

Next Row [WS]: BO 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 row.
Next Row [WS]: BO 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 row.
BO rem 8[9, 9, 10, 10, 11] sts.

Sleeves (Make 2)
Using US #4/3.5mm needles, CO 43[43, 47, 47, 49, 49] sts

Sizes S, M, 2XL and 3XL Only: Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, p1, [k3, p3] to last 5 sts, k3, p1, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: P1, k1, [p3, k3] to last 5 sts, p3, k1, p1.

Sizes L, XL Only: Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p1, k1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k1, p1] to last st, p1.

Row 3 [RS]: K4, [p3, k3] to last st, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: P4, [k3, p3] to last st, p1.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with Row 3[3, 4, 3, 3, 3].

Sizes S, M, XL, 2XL, and 3XL Only: Next Row [WS]: [Work 14[14, _, 16, 16] sts in patt, m1] twice, work in patt to end. 45[45, _, 49, 51, 51] sts.

All Sizes: Using US #5/3.75 mm needles, work 2 rows stockinette st.

NOTE: Read ahead; stitch pattern directions and sleeve shaping directions are worked at the same time.

Next Row [RS]: K2[2, 3, 0, 1, 1], work Row 1 of Beaded Curls Pattern to last 2[2, 3, 0, 1, 1] sts, k to end.
Work Rows 2-12 of Beaded Curls pattern as set, then work Rows 1-6 once more.

Begin working Little Curls Pattern, starting from Row 7. Cont in Little Curls Pattern for rest of Sleeve.

AT THE SAME TIME: Shape sleeve as follows, keeping stitch pattern correct:
Work 8 rows in patt.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work to last st, m1, k1.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 8[12, 14, 22, 14, 10] times more, working increased sts into st pattern. 63[71, 77, 95, 81, 73] sts.

Work Increase Row.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 1, 1] rows in patt.
Repeat these 6[6, 6, 6, 2, 2] rows 8[8, 7, 2, 22, 30] times more, working increased sts into st pattern. 81[89, 93, 101, 127, 135] sts.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 17.5[18, 18.5, 18.75, 18.5, 18.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap
BO 6[7, 8, 8, 8, 9] sts at beg of next 2 rows.
BO 4[3, 3, 4, 4, 4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 61[69, 71, 77, 103, 109] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows 6[6, 8, 10, 8, 8] times more47[55, 53, 55, 85, 91] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[7, 7, 7, 13, 14] times more.

BO rem 23[23, 21, 23, 29, 31] sts.

Using US #4/3.5 mm circular needle, with RS facing and beg at lower right front corner, pick up and k 6 sts for every 7 rows along right front edge, 1 st in each bound off st along back neckline, and 6 sts for every 7 rows along left front edge.

Count number of sts on needle.

P 1 row, increasing or decreasing up to 3 sts so that you have a multiple of 6 sts + 3.

Next Row [RS]: [K3, p3] to last 3 sts, k3.
Next Row [WS]: [P3, k3] to last 3 sts, p3.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 1 inch.

Using US #3/3.25 mm circular needle, cont in patt until work measures 2 inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Next Row [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Next Row [RS]: [BO 6 sts loosely in patt, work next 2 sts tog and cont binding off in patt] to end.

FINISHING

Sew shoulder seams.

Sew sleeves into armholes, matching center of sleeve cap with shoulder seam, and easing in fullness in sleeve cap.

Sew sleeve seams and side seams.

Weave in ends.

Block as desired.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Lisa Marie Collins hides half the yarn she buys, starts knitting half of what she hides, finishes half of what she starts, and gives away half of what she finishes. Half of those who have criticized this perfectly logical system have not been heard from again.