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This is a unique mitten and hat set that uses a provisional cast on and short row techniques.

Flaps are detailed with reverse stockinette bands that are closed using three-needle bind-off. Buttons add decoration and can be functional or not.

Inspiration for this set came from a pair of mittens my daughter wore as a toddler that had a flared cuff.

model: Casey photo: Chris Behme

SIZE
Child [Adult]
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Mittens:
Circumference 7[8] inches
Length: 8.5 [12] inches

Hat:
Circumference 19 inches
Height 5 inches

Note: Your results can vary due to the wash cycle.

 

MATERIALS

threadbear [MC] Cascade 220 [100% pure new wool; 220 yd per 100g skein]; color: #9461; 2 [3] skeins
[CC] Cascade 220 #8010[100% pure new wool; 220yd per 100g skein]; color: #8010; 1 [1] skeins

1 set US #10.5/6.5mm double-point needle
1 24-inch US #10.5/6.5mm circular needle
1 24-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle
Size G crochet hook
stitch holders
stitch markers
tapestry needle
3 decorative buttons
sewing thread and needle

 

GAUGE

14 sts/28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

 
DIRECTIONS

PROVISIONAL CAST ON [PCO]

Using the crochet hook and waste yarn make a chain of stitches that equal the number of sts you need plus 6 extra and secure the tail. With the appropriate size needle and yarn pick up sts by going into the "bump" st that is on the underside of the crochet chain. You will start in the 4th st from the end of the chain and will have a few crochet sts at the end when you are done.

MITTENS-Left and Right

Flap

Using a PCO, CO 42 sts in MC using US #10.5 circular needle. Work in St st for 2 rows starting with a K row.

Row 3: *K7, m1* 5 times, k7. [47 sts]

Rows 4 & 5: Work in St st.

Row 6: P7, *m1, p8* 5 times. [52 sts]

Rows 7 & 8: Work in St st.

Row 9: *K9, m1* 5 times, k7. [57 sts]

Rows 10 & 11: Work in St st.

Row 12: P7, *m1, p10* 5 times. [62 sts]

Row 13: K to end.

Short row shaping: Work to designated st on needle, bring yarn to front or back depending on whether it is a k or p row. Slip last st purlwise and take yarn to back or front as needed. Turn work and slip first st on right needle back to left needle.

Row 14-21: Short Rows

Row 14: P 61, short row

Row 15: K 60, short row

Continue in this manner, always knitting or purling one less st than previous rows. On Row 21 you will not wrap the st. Cut MC and slip all sts to right hand needle. [62 sts]

Cuff Edge

With RS facing join CC in the upper left hand corner where the PCO is. Pick up 8 sts along left edge, being sure not to catch PCO yarn. K live sts from needles and then pick up 8 sts from right edge. [78 sts]

Row 2: K

Row 3: P

Row 4: K

Row 5: Use US #5 circular needle and pick up sts on back side of work. To do this, look for CC loops that will show at bottom of CC band. Pick up those loops and keep them on your US#5/ 3.75mm needle. Now bring both needles together and form a tube with the purl side of the fabric facing out. Knit one st from both needles together, while at same time casting off until you have 1 st remaining. Do not cut yarn.

Wrist Detail-Left Mitten-read through this section BEFORE knitting.

With RS facing you, using CC, pick up 1 st from edge of tube you just formed. Remove waste yarn from PCO as you knit these sts and then pick up 2 sts from tube edge at left side of flap. [46 sts]

The remainder of mitten will be worked in the round and the set up is as follows: With RS facing you, keeping left side, AS YOU LOOK AT IT IN THE ROUND, over right side of flap, take a spare needle and slip first 8[6] sts off left needle. Alternate slipping 1 st from right needle and 1 st from spare needle until all sts have been placed back on left needle. Refer to picture of left hand mitten for clarification. You want the Āflap” to wrap around wrist from the left side of hand. Transfer sts to DPNs at this point for ease in handling, make sure working yarn is at the start of a DPN. Still working in CC, knit one round. Purl next 3 rounds.

Form these purl rounds into a tube as before, omitting cast off: using a smaller needle [either circular or DPNs], pick up enough back loops of 1st CC row to match number of sts on 1st DPN. Knit 1 st from each needle together. Continue in this manner until all sts have been knit and you are back to the 1st needle.

Place markers: Place markers at the 5th & 6th [6th & 7th] sts to right of the point where the overlap was made. These markers are for the gusset increases, the left one will denote Beginning Of Round [BOR]. Cut CC.

Wrist Detail-Right Mitten

Start as for Left Mitten, however the overlap will go in the opposite direction.

With RS facing you, take a spare needle and slip first 8[6] sts off right needle. Now alt slipping one st from left needle and one from spare needle until all sts have been placed back on right needle, keeping right side, AS YOU LOOK AT IT IN THE ROUND, of flap over top of left flap. Continue as for Left Mitten.

Place markers: Place markers at the 5th & 6th[6th & 7th] sts to left of the point where the overlap was made. The left marker will denote BOR. Cut CC.

Mitten Body-Left & Right Mitten

Join MC after the BOR marker and knit one round even, making sure to knit 2 sts together where you alternated the 8[6] sts for the overlap. [38[40] sts]

Round 2: Knit to 1st marker and slip it, m1L [lift bar between sts with right leg forward], k1, m1R [lift bar between sts with left leg forward], slip marker, k to end of round.

Round 3 & 4: Knit

Repeat these 3 rounds 4[5] more times -- 48[52] sts.

Place the gusset sts, 11[13] on holder.

Knit another rnd, place BOR marker, add 1 st by e-wrap CO and join piece in the round again. [38[40] sts]

Knit around until piece measures 4[5] inches from e-wrap CO row.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K8, k2tog* 3[4] times, k8[0] --35[36] sts.

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: *K7, k2tog* 3[4] times, k8[0] -- 32 sts.

Round 4: Knit.

Continue in this manner by knitting one less st between decreases every other round until 20 sts remain. Then decrease every round until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn and pull tail through live sts, weave in the end.

Thumb Gusset

Slip gusset sts to 2 DPNs and use DPNs to pick up sts around thumb opening. Pick up 7 and knit straight for 2[2.5] inches from pick up sts --18[20]sts.

Shape the Thumb

Child Size

Round 1: *K2tog, k2*, k2tog. [13 sts]

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: *K2, k2tog* k3. [10 sts]

Round 4: *K2tog*. [5 sts]

Cut yarn, pull it through live sts on needles, weave in ends.

Adult Size

Round 1: *K2tog, k2*. [15 sts]

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: *K2tog, k1*. [10 sts]

Round 4 *K2tog*. [5 sts]

Cut yarn, pull through live sts on needles, weave in ends.


HAT

Flap

Using PCO and US #10.5 circular needle, CO 80[90] sts with MC. Work in St st, starting with k row, work 2 rows.

Row 3: *K10, m1* 7[8] times, k10 -- 87[98] sts.

Row 4-6: Work in St st.

Row 7: *K11, m1* 7[8] times, k10 -- 94[106] sts.

Rows 8-10: Work in St st.

Row 11: *K12, m1* 7[8] times, k10 -- 101[114] sts.

Row 12: Work in St st.

For child size only:

Rows 13-20: Do short rows following instructions for mitten flap.

Row 13: K 100, short row.

Row 14: P 99, short row.

Continue in this manner, knitting or purling one less stitch than row before. On Row 20 omit the wrap. Slip all sts to right hand needle and cut MC.

Join CC and pick up 8 sts along top left corner, starting where PCO is made. Try not to pick up waste yarn. Knit live sts from needle and then pick up 8 more sts on right curved edge of the piece. [117 sts]

For adult size only:

Row 12-14: Work in St st.

Rows 15: K13, m1 7[8] times, k10. [122 sts]

Rows 16: Work in St st.

Rows 17-24: Do short rows following the instructions for mitten flap.

Row 17: K 121, short row.

Row 18: P 120, short row.

Continue in this manner knitting or purling one less st than row before. On Row

24 no wrap is necessary, just stop purling 1 st before last purl row. Slip all sts to right hand needle and cut MC.

Join CC and pick up 12 sts on left edge, knit live sts and pick up 12 sts on right edge. [146 sts]

For all sizes:

Knit I row, work in rev St st for 2 more rows and using same technique from mittens join CC into a tube, at same time cast off all but 1 stitch.

Brim Detail

Using same method as in mittens, pick up 1 st of tube edge and knit across all sts, removing waste yarn from PCO, and pick up 2 sts from tube edge at opposite end of flap -- 80[94] sts.

Refer to Mitten [wrist detail] and use same method to overlap edges, this is where you can choose which flap to overlap. Slip 8 sts onto spare needle for both sizes. Once the sts are on the needle knit one round making sure to k2tog when you come to sts of overlapped edges -- 72[86] sts.

Work 5 rounds in rev St st. Use joining method as in mitten pattern, join purl stitches to form a tube. Cut CC and turn work inside out so wrong side is facing you.

Hat Body

Join MC and knit 1 round even.

Round 2: *K10, m1* 7[8] times, k2[6] -- 79[94] sts.

Knit in St st for 30[32] rounds. You do not need to cut MC, it will join up again.

Join CC and knit one round, knit in rev St st for 5 rounds. Join tube together as in previous band and cut CC.

Hat Crown

Join MC and knit one round decrease 1[4] sts evenly -- 78[90] sts.

Place markers at following places:

Child's size, after every 13th stitch.

Adult size, after every 15th stitch. These mark the decrease points.

Decrease method: *Work to marker, slip marker, slip 2 sts tog knitwise, k1, p2sso*-12 sts decreased.

Round 2: Decrease round.

Round 3 & 4: Knit.

Repeat these 3 rounds until 6 sts are left, switching to DPNs as needed. Cut MC and join CC and make I-cord for 5-6 inches, pull yarn tail through sts on needle and weave in ends.

 

FINISHING

Weave in ends. When felting, always refer to the gauge swatch. Wash gauge swatch to see how it will react. Trace the swatch on a white piece of paper for its pre-washed dimensions. Set for short cycles on hot wash and check the size against your pre-washed dimensions after each cycle. Each felting experience will have a different outcome, so watch your swatch to see how it reacts. This will give you an idea of how much felting your knit piece will need.

After felting: Knot I-cord on hat. Tack the flaps to keep them closed by sewing from the back of the brim. The mittens have a piece of elastic cord that loops around the button to keep the flap closed. Secure the elastic by tacking it down with sewing thread and a sharp needle.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Chrisknits! That’s her blog name and a description of her daily life.

If she’s not knitting, she is thinking about knitting. She loves felting and usually has 1 felted item going at all times. She enjoys knitting for her children and all the babies that her family and friends have. She sends a big thank you out to Betsey Hoyt for all her advice, test knitting and editing help.

Visit her at her weblog where she writes about her knitting experiences.