  by
Robyn Hamilton 
Since this suit is made out
of 100% cotton, it's clearly ill-suited for
the water.
But statistics suggest that
something like three-quarters of all bathing
suits purchased never get wet anyway -- except
in the laundry. So there.
Wearing this, you'll look
great poolside, or out on the town if you pair
it with a summer skirt.
S[M, L, XL]
Chest: 13" [unstretched]
Length: 29" [unstretched]
Note: Since swimsuit is extremely
fitted, these measurements are smaller than
body measurements.
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Using a provisional
cast on with crochet hook and waste yarn, CO
23 sts.
Work in St st for 4 inches,
slipping first stitch of each row for a neat
edge.
Front Increases
On each row, K2 or P2, inc1,
work to end of row.
Repeat this row 58 times. You should now have
81 stitches.
Place stitches on holder.
Back Increases
Remove waste yarn from cast-on
edge and pick up the 23 stitches.
Mark center stitch.
Work in St st, increasing 4 times in every knit
row as follows: K2, inc 1, k to just before
marker, inc 1, slip marker, inc 1, k to 2 sts
from edge, inc 1, k2.
Repeat increase row every knit row 10 more times.
67 sts.
Continue increasing by working each row as follows:
K [or P]2 sts, inc 1, work to end of row.
Work this row 19 times. 105 sts on needle.
Join front and back
At the end of the last back
knit row, CO 4 sts, placing a marker between
the 2nd and 3rd sts.
Then, with a circular needle, pick up and knit
the 82 stitches from the holder [the front stitches].
CO 4 more sts after the front stitches [again
placing a marker between the 2nd
and 3rd sts].
All 195 sts should now be on the circular needle.
Being careful not to twist, join up and knit
one row.
Next row, Dec before and after each marker [one
at each side and one at back]. Knit 2 rows plain.
Repeat these 3 rows 4 times -- 171 sts.
When piece measures 2.5 inches from top of leg
opening, beginning at center back marker, BO
18 sts, then complete row.
Turn work, BO 18 sts and purl to end of row.
BO 5 sts at each end of the next 2 rows.
BO 2 sts at each end of the next 12 rows.
BO 1 st at each end of the next 2 rows.
V-neck shaping
At the same time as you work
the side decreases, when you have 90 stitches,
M1 with CC [intarsia style] after 45th stitch.
Knit in MC for the rest of the row. [Strand
the black behind the silver sections throughout,
because it makes the silver pop out more; further,
it prevents holes between the colors.]
Next row: M1 in CC beside the 1st CC st.
Work two rows as set.
Next row: Inc 2 sts in CC between the 2 CC sts.
Next row: Purl.
Next row: on the CC sts, make a 2x2 right cross.
Next row: Purl.
Next row, Inc 2 CC sts inside the four existing
silver stitches.
Next row: Purl.
Work 4 rows as set.
Next row, make 3X3 right cross.
Next row: Purl.
Work 4 rows as set.
Next row, do a 3X3 right cross.
Next row: Purl.
Next row, M 2 MC sts in center of 6 CC sts.
Next row, work back as set.
Next row, K across, M2 in between the 2 new
MC sts.
Divide
for V-neck
Next row: K to center of the 4 MC sts, turn
work. Leave other sts on holder.
Right side of V-neck
Work as set, decreasing 1
st every knit row to the outside of the V-neck,
slipping the first stitch of every row for a
neat edge.
When you have 7 stitches left, end CC. Work
1 inch in MC. BO all.
Left side of V-neck
Work as other side, reversing
shaping. |
Sew
on first piece of bra clasp.