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At
the foot of the cone a row of cabins made with branches and containing
but frames and hammocks served as dormitories for the fishermen.
It was more than humble, it was miserable. One can hardly imagine
how, in such a climate, under an always rainy or foggy sky and
where the damp is often glacial, men could settle, without risk
to the health, for such scant shelters. It seems, however, and
born out by experience that no harm comes of it and that the fishing
crews enjoy the most flourishing health. Always outdoors, always
actively busy, the men have no time for boredom, their blood circulates
with vigour and they are not subject to colds, the outbreak of
which, contrary to what one might suppose, is very rare in the
region. They are always more or less soaked through and there
is nothing worse than that. Such was the nature of the life.
The
beach was covered in a manner which little delighted the sight
or the sense of smell, in a layer of bloody debris, the remains
of cod, heads and guts crowded the pebbles as abundantly as elsewhere
did the seaweed rejected by the waves. Several feet away rose
the almost perpendicular face of the cone. They have constructed
of planks steep stairs, though more like a ladder and alongside
to right and left wooden rails on which ascend and descend, with
the aid of a capstan placed at the summit of the mountain, all
the burdens one wishes to move.
After
having climbed a good number of steps, we found ourselves in the
midst of storehouses, all built of planks, the dwelling of the
manager, that of the doctor, finally at the centre of an intelligent
and successful operation. The settlement at Red Island is one
which on the western coast consistently produces best and merits
the most interest. We found ourselves there in the midst of a
new variety of fishermen of which the nature and lifestyle are
completely different to those that we have been able to observe
to date, be they inshore fishermen of St-Pierre-et-Miquelon, banks
fishermen or English fishermen unlawfully established here.